Resonator guitar string recommendations

[blue]

Originally Posted by Aaron Smith

I agree with the heavier reso set if you plan to play 100% slide on that guitar. If you are going to do any fretting, it will be very difficult with those heavier strings- in which case I'd stick with 13-56.

On the reso set I recommended the second string is only .001 bigger than normal. The first string is smaller than a medium gauge second string. Can't you fret, heck, bend a medium gauge second string? No need to get excited about .016 and an .018 strings. it's absolutely no big deal.

If you play anything more sophisticated than Son House you fret at least as much as you slide. Well I do anyway. If you play modern stuff even more so. There's nothing to fear in that envelope of strings. Trust me. The .026 second string on my baritone is giggling right now taunting me with chants of "fret me! I dare you!"

[Craig_H]

Originally Posted by blue

On the reso set I recommended the second string is only .001 bigger than normal. The first string is smaller than a medium gauge second string. Can't you fret, heck, bend a medium gauge second string? No need to get excited about .016 and an .018 strings. it's absolutely no big deal.

If you play anything more sophisticated than Son House you fret at least as much as you slide. Well I do anyway. If you play modern stuff even more so. There's nothing to fear in that envelope of strings. Trust me. The .026 second string on my baritone is giggling right now taunting me with chants of "fret me! I dare you!"

That was my experience last evening -- after stumbling around a little with the slide I started to play some open G fingerpicking tunes: Fahey's Spanish Two-Step, stuff like that. And though I had to work a little harder on the barres than I would on my little Gibson CJ (with its light Elixer strings) it was really just fine. Looking forward to becoming a blues maniac.

[blue]

Originally Posted by Craig_H

That was my experience last evening -- after stumbling around a little with the slide I started to play some open G fingerpicking tunes: Fahey's Spanish Two-Step, stuff like that. And though I had to work a little harder on the barres than I would on my little Gibson CJ (with its light Elixer strings) it was really just fine. Looking forward to becoming a blues maniac.

I recommend a good Robert Johnson book for that, like the Hal Leonard Robert Johnson/At the Crossroads. The reason being is that a Robert Johnson compilation is easy to find and cheap, and his slide work is very easy to play, while being a master-class in sparse accompaniment for vocals.

Long before you learn the twenty something RJ songs, you'll have developed your own feel and sense about the music. Internalizing it and developing your own turnarounds, licks, rhythm style, etc...

[blue]

Originally Posted by Craig_H

That was my experience last evening -- after stumbling around a little with the slide I started to play some open G fingerpicking tunes: Fahey's Spanish Two-Step, stuff like that. And though I had to work a little harder on the barres than I would on my little Gibson CJ (with its light Elixer strings) it was really just fine. Looking forward to becoming a blues maniac.

Do you play any Celtic? On a Reso there's an almost harpsichord like quality to the sound. It sounds very Ritchie Blackmoor at the Renaissance fair

[Craig_H]

Originally Posted by blue

Do you play any Celtic? On a Reso there's an almost harpsichord like quality to the sound. It sounds very Ritchie Blackmoor at the Renaissance fair

I like that idea. I've got an old, late 1800's banjo that I play clawhammer on. I've learned some celtic and fiddle tunes on that over the years and always liked the way those tunes translated to the banjo. So it could be fun to see how they'd translate to the reso.

With regard to Ritchie Blackmoor, a quick Google search turned up this photo of what would appear to be Ritchie Blackmoor at a, uh... Renaissance fair

[blue]

Originally Posted by Craig_H

I like that idea. I've got an old, late 1800's banjo that I play clawhammer on. I've learned some celtic and fiddle tunes on that over the years and always liked the way those tunes translated to the banjo. So it could be fun to see how they'd translate to the reso.

With regard to Ritchie Blackmoor, a quick Google search turned up this photo of what would appear to be Ritchie Blackmoor at a, uh... Renaissance fair

Yah think I just pulled it out of my back pocket? He has albums with his wife I believe. And since someone has to say it "Is that your hat, or are you just happy to see me!"

[dobrocop]

Sorry for Hijacking this thread,.But i would like to know of any 7 and 8 string reso players out there ,and how many playing Square neck reso's? cheers,,

[booyahn]

Greetings, I superglue a small piece of cork or similar mat'l (has some give to it)
CROSSWAYS inside slide...about where either 1st joint or 2nd joint of finger will be normally...last time I cut/shaped it to match inside curve, that is my .02 worth.

[slimey]

Another vote for the Pearse 13's....
I like to avoid open E tuning for my National, it puts a lot of tension on the neck, especially when you can play in E with G or D tunings .
My favourite slide www.latchlakemusic.com/chrome_guitar_slide.html I like the dome as it allows single string accuracy and it lets you really dig in to emphasise notes when you want more expression. But it's all taste and like pics for your acoustic guitar you'll try many different slides. I use different ones for different tones, glass = mellow, ceramic = mellow but more edge than glass, steel= sharper tone but still not too edgy , brass = the sharpest sound. All this is obviously to my ear, taste and technique. It may be totally different for you.
The biggest thing I've seen with beginner slide players is they don't hold the slide properly. I use my pinky finger , the next finger ( ring finger ) rests on top of the slide for control, your middle finger rests on the strings to damp them behind the slide. If you look at your fingers from the end , they'll be in a triangle shape with the slide in the middle and the base of the triangle. This method stops those awful wolf notes which make your spine crawl.

Look for anything by Bob Brozman , a great resourse for lessons .books DVD's etc. on slide.
Have a lot of fun with it.

[Dan Carey]

Originally Posted by brian a.

For strings on my metal Dobro I use a standard light gauge set without the 1st (high E) string. I used the 2nd string (.016) as the 1st string and use a .018 as a 2nd string. The other 4 strings stay the same.

As for slides, I have quite a few. Both glass and metal. My favorites are from Diamond Bottle Necks. www.diamondbottlenecks.com

Experiment with strings and slides to find the tone and feel you like best.

Same here. I usually just take a set of mediums and replace the B & E with .016 and .018 respectively. And it seems that the older they get, the better they sound.

[Crazyquilt]

The Newtones are really, really nice, but also pricey.

I don't like phosphor bronze strings on my resos. Someone a few years ago hipped me to using nickel strings, and from the first time I tried them, I knew I'd found what I'd been looking for. I play National round-necks with biscuit bridges, although I have a vintage square-neck tricone. I play slide and fretted. I usually use 13s, but sometimes I'll use a slightly heavier gauge, like the Newtones, which have a 15 high e. Even tuned to standard, I have no trouble with the 15s, in terms of fretting. Bending is another issue.

Nickel strings also last forever, which is a bonus. I've used GHS White Bronze, as well; they are a lot cheaper than Newtones, although not quite as lush sounding, and a bit brighter/harsher (at least starting out.)

I use a Latch Lake Acoustiglide on my pinky, covering the whole digit. I like the weight of it -- too light, and your tone AND playing, especially vibrato, suffers. I have been waiting for what seems like forever for a Diamond from Vintage Nationals...someday I hope to actually receive it so I can grok what all the hype is about.

Another vote for Brozman. He really breaks it down and starts with the simplest things, and then helps you build with and on those.

[Crazyquilt]

Originally Posted by Craig_H

With regard to Ritchie Blackmoor, a quick Google search turned up this photo of what would appear to be Ritchie Blackmoor at a, uh... Renaissance fair

Blackmore's Night. *shudder*

And I say that from the perspective of someone who loves Renaissance music, especially Dowland's lute pieces.

The group performs at Renaissance fairs and Renaissance Festivals, as well as in stand-alone concert tours in appropriate venues including 'castle tours' of Europe, where they perform in historic surroundings for an audience dressed largely in period costume.

[s11141827]

I've experimented w/ using EJ23 Strings (Ultra-Lights which are 9s) on my Resonator Guitar & I worked around the volume issue by drilling holes in the bridge & stringing them underneath the tailpiece which results in a sharp break angle. Resonator Guitars take regular Acoustic Guitar Strings FYI.

[s11141827]

Originally Posted by Crazyquilt

The Newtones are really, really nice, but also pricey.

I don't like phosphor bronze strings on my resos. Someone a few years ago hipped me to using nickel strings, and from the first time I tried them, I knew I'd found what I'd been looking for. I play National round-necks with biscuit bridges, although I have a vintage square-neck tricone. I play slide and fretted. I usually use 13s, but sometimes I'll use a slightly heavier gauge, like the Newtones, which have a 15 high e. Even tuned to standard, I have no trouble with the 15s, in terms of fretting. Bending is another issue.

Nickel strings also last forever, which is a bonus. I've used GHS White Bronze, as well; they are a lot cheaper than Newtones, although not quite as lush sounding, and a bit brighter/harsher (at least starting out.)

I use a Latch Lake Acoustiglide on my pinky, covering the whole digit. I like the weight of it -- too light, and your tone AND playing, especially vibrato, suffers. I have been waiting for what seems like forever for a Diamond from Vintage Nationals...someday I hope to actually receive it so I can grok what all the hype is about.

Another vote for Brozman. He really breaks it down and starts with the simplest things, and then helps you build with and on those.

For bending switch over to something like 11s (such as Rouxinol R-30s w/ a Wound B) or lighter in the most affordable price you could find. You could compensate for the reduced volume of lighter gauge strings by stringing them underneath the lip of tailpiece which increases the break angle over the bridge.