#16
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Well I bit the bullet and purchased the D1AT. Supposed to be here Saturday.
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#17
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I hope you love your new Collings.
A bit of advice on Collings, especially with adirondack tops -they're built to last, and to be broken in with vigorous right hand technique. Especially the D's. Many are bought and sold off without giving them an adequate break in. "Don't ask me how I know". Also, assuming you're a flatpicker, medium gauge strings are highly recommended. One has to vibrate those tops, moreso for the first few hundred hours of play. The standard Collings D1A is an all time classic guitar, considered by many to be the best acoustic they build, which is saying a lot. I don't know how the T models stack up myself, but I've heard good things. Looking forward to your report. |
#18
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I had these:
D18A 1937 D28A 1937 non-vts D28A 1941 non-vts D28A 1931 non-vts Now I own these: D1AT non baked D2HT non baked(sitka) D2HMRAT baked And I plan on more... The switch was clear for me between brand's, when I got my first Collings T. Plus those cases are amazing. I will say the best Martin Authentic I had was by FAR the 1941 D28 rear-shifted. It was amazing. I actually want to get another. Hope u enjoy your new Collings! |
#19
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Well not dreads, but I have a Martin OM-18A and a Collings OM-1A special build. I think the Collings, which was one of a run limited to just a handful of guitars, has some of the specs that have since found their way to the Traditionals. Both are great guitars, they each have their own sound, but if I had to choose, I'd say I prefer the Collings. But I'd completely understand anyone preferring either guitar.
Bottom line, I think you'll be getting a great guitar that you should enjoy immensely.
__________________
Bob DeVellis |
#20
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Quote:
What would you say the original mission of the Collings traditional model is? I listened to the Kimsey comparison and while either sounds fine there are subtle differences most evident to me in the single note work. For a rosewood dread, Collings has coaxed more mids out. I definitely hear a bigger frequency spread in the Martin timbre. So if their attempt was to sound like an Authentic, they didn't get there. Which might be good for you. hunter |
#21
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Had to sell my 2011 D-18A because I couldn't get used to the 1 3/4" nut (all of my acoustics are now 1 11/16"). LOVED everything else about the guitar though!
In my current stash: '97 Martin D-45V '70 Martin D-28 '69 Martin D-35 '99 Collings D-1 '11 Collings D2H '13 Collings D2H '14 Collings D2HA '71 Guild F-312NT As you can see, I like the tone of Martins and Collings guitars. But, as noted often above, they are REALLY different in tone, clarity, and sustain. Glad you went with the D-1 as I know you'll love it. If I could only have one guitar, it would be my '99 Collings D-1. BTW, all of my guitars have K&K Pure Mini pups which work very well with them if you like to plug in. |
#22
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Well, JW, what do you think? You've had several months now to compare the Collings Trad to the Martin Authentics - did you sell all your Martins? Trade the Collings for a Goodall? Find them similar or different? You could probably school us all now - tell us about your experience.
__________________
Hatcher Woodsman, Collings 0002H, Stella Grand Concert |
#23
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We're waiting...
Scott |
#24
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#25
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I own a Collings D1A-T, and it is everything I hoped my 37' Martin D-18 A would be.
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#26
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Quote:
So did you keep the D1AT? How did/does it differ from your ‘38A’s? |
#27
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I’ve yet to play a Martin that I’d prefer to a Collings- just my preference though.
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