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  #31  
Old 05-26-2020, 12:52 PM
RJVB RJVB is offline
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Didn't see mention of the Ernie Ball Silk & Steel (which are brass-wound), didn't they exist at the time of this thread?

I really liked the LaBellas but expect them to be short-lived as at least 1 person noted because they're silver-plated copper.

A close second are the GHS Silk & Bronze, but I use the Ernie Ball S&S low E because it sounds less dead.

Waiting on a set of Newtone MasterClass double-wound; I expect those to be an interesting alternative.
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  #32  
Old 05-26-2020, 12:56 PM
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cliff_the_stiff cliff_the_stiff is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tenzin View Post
I've just gotten back into playing acoustic guitar after a 15 hiatus and purchased a Martin OM-21. I grew up playing a Gibson Hummingbird, which I guess would be considered a Dreadnaught body?

On the Gibson, after trying most of the styles available at the time, I ended up liking Martin Marquies Silk & Steel.

I'm thinking that Silk & Steel (or Bronze) might be a type to stIart out trying on my new Martin 6 string.

I'm aware of the downsides, and price and longgevity are not a concern. I also only play for my own enjoyment so micing, pickups, and performance issues aren't a concern.

So… what are your Silk string preferances? Thanks!
Light gauge 11s, Thomastik Plectrums
Medium 12s or 13s, Thomastik Spectrums.
I like Thomastik strings because they are a round core string. I prefer the tone of round core over octagonal.
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  #33  
Old 05-26-2020, 03:50 PM
FreDrummer FreDrummer is offline
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I’m surprised we’re already on page 3 of this thread, everyone is talking about their favorite silk and steel sets, but the original OP was referring to Martin Marquis strings from his past experience.

When I read the product description, I come away with MARTIN MARQUIS ARE NOT SILK/STEEL STRINGS!. Anyone feel free to correct me if I’m wrong (and I will humbly take my thirty lashes with a wet noodle), but when I read the description of Martin Marquis strings, they only refer to a silk wrap around the outer part of the ball-end wrap of the string, meant to reduce wear on bridge holes/slots. In other words, they are a standard PB string with silk layered on the OUTSIDE of the ball-end wrap. It is my understanding a true silk/steel string has a fine silk winding around the core, then the traditional PB wrap on top of that. This construction results in a different sound - as pointed out by previous posters - that people seem to either love or hate. It should also be noted the “silk” aspect is absent on the unwound B and E strings, whereas on a set of Martin Marquis strings, all six will have the wrap around the ball-end wrap for the purpose of not chewing up the bridge slots.

Again, if I’m wrong, call me out. But that is what I take away from the product descriptions.

Also, the John Pearse silk sets are a bit of a different animal. (I’ve tried them and like them). In their product description, they say they follow the “standard” core/silk wrap/PB top wrap, but take pains to emphasize they do NOT sound like standard silk/steel sets. They say it is more for feel (lower tension set, I presume). Their product description promotes them as ideal for players who play mostly electric and only occasional acoustic.

There you have it. That is as I understand it...as always, DYODD, YMMV, I may be totally wrong, etc.
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  #34  
Old 05-26-2020, 03:55 PM
Wade Hampton Wade Hampton is offline
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I sometimes use the John Pearse phosphor bronze and silk strings, but my sister uses them as her primary strings. She used silk and steel strings for decades, but when I gave her a set of the Pearse phosphor bronze and silk she immediately changed her preference to those.

She told me that they have all the tone and easy playability of the silk and steels, but last her three times as long.


Wade Hampton Miller
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  #35  
Old 05-26-2020, 03:57 PM
FreDrummer FreDrummer is offline
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From Martin’s website:

Martin® Authentic Acoustic® Marquis® Silked strings feature a soft silk wrap that prevents wear and tear on the bridge holes and bridge plate as you play. The added thickness also ensures that bridge pins will stay locked in place, even in older bridges with worn holes.

Now, in their new lineup and packaging, they ARE offering a silk set, but I believe the Marquis only had the silk on the ball-ends, and on the OUTSIDE.
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  #36  
Old 05-26-2020, 04:26 PM
Wade Hampton Wade Hampton is offline
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Right. Before I developed my preference for John Pearse strings in the mid-1980’s, I sometimes used Martin and Martin Marquis strings.

The Marquis strings had an elegant little silk wrapping around the string end just above the ball end. My understanding is that that sort of wrap used to be done to reinforce the metal wrapping to help keep it from coming unraveled, but by the time I began to play music the string-making technology had improved sufficiently that those metal end wraps were much more secure and didn’t need that reinforcement at all anymore.

But the silk did have a secondary function of damping any unwanted noise that might be created between the pin and the saddle.

Now those last two statements are unverified assertions, and shouldn’t be considered as gospel - they’re just things I’ve heard. But both make sense to me.

Anyway, I always liked the refined appearance of the silk wrappings on Martin Marquis strings, and they were, in fact, excellent strings.


Wade Hampton Miller
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  #37  
Old 05-26-2020, 05:14 PM
FreDrummer FreDrummer is offline
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Hey, Tenzin, good luck on your quest!

I also bought an OM-21 in April, so I am on the same hunt as you. I have been gravitating towards 80/20 bronze, or even Martin Retros (Monel) on my dreads, but I’m thinking I may settle on PB for the OM-21. Right now, I have some Martin Lifespan Pb’s (no complaints), but look forward to trying out the DR Sunbeams and John Pearse PB silk (which, again, are not meant to sound like a traditional silk/PB set, but have a nice feel).

The most important thing is to enjoy the journey and find what YOU like.
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  #38  
Old 05-26-2020, 05:16 PM
Brucebubs Brucebubs is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreDrummer View Post
Hey, Tenzin, good luck on your quest!

I also bought an OM-21 in April, so I am on the same hunt as you. I have been gravitating towards 80/20 bronze, or even Martin Retros (Monel) on my dreads, but I’m thinking I may settle on PB for the OM-21. Right now, I have some Martin Lifespan Pb’s (no complaints), but look forward to trying out the DR Sunbeams and John Pearse PB silk (which, again, are not meant to sound like a traditional silk/PB set, but have a nice feel).

The most important thing is to enjoy the journey and find what YOU like.
Make sure you follow the installation instructions for DR Sunbeams - they are round-core strings so don't go pre-cutting them!
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  #39  
Old 05-27-2020, 09:29 AM
FreDrummer FreDrummer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brucebubs View Post
Make sure you follow the installation instructions for DR Sunbeams - they are round-core strings so don't go pre-cutting them!
Thanks!

I also recently bought some Curt Mangan round-core from Strings and Beyond and they had a small pre-printed paper label taped to the outside with the same warning.

What exactly do they mean?

When I string up, I always leave the full string length on when tightening up the strings, i.e. about 4-6” of string sticking up while winding. Then, I cut them off close to the post. Is that what they are telling you to do? Or, should one leave a little more length sticking out from the post when cutting them (after winding to tension)?
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  #40  
Old 05-27-2020, 03:42 PM
Brucebubs Brucebubs is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreDrummer View Post
Thanks!

I also recently bought some Curt Mangan round-core from Strings and Beyond and they had a small pre-printed paper label taped to the outside with the same warning.

What exactly do they mean?

When I string up, I always leave the full string length on when tightening up the strings, i.e. about 4-6” of string sticking up while winding. Then, I cut them off close to the post. Is that what they are telling you to do? Or, should one leave a little more length sticking out from the post when cutting them (after winding to tension)?
What you're doing is fine. The warning is for those people that like to measure and cut the strings before winding them on the tuner. Doing that with round-core strings can cause the outer wrap wire of the string to unwind from the round steel core - making it sound completely dead!

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  #41  
Old 05-27-2020, 03:48 PM
FreDrummer FreDrummer is offline
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Ahhh...I get it!

Thank you!
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