How making a slotted headstock?

[Manos Tourpalis]

Hi everybody.
Regarding to the headstock thickness and width: In my opinion, you should first choose 2-3 keys set(s) probably to use - specifically for slots - and look up for their exact dimensions, as there are numerous differences amongst firms / types etc.
Keys (6x sets) plates’ widths vary (from 17 to 21 mm - the ones that I know of), and this might affect the headstock’s thickness.
Also, see to the length of the axles (24-29 mm is what I have used so far: 5 mm is quite a big difference). With the longer axles and (usually) inclined headstock's sides the "nearest" opposite keys (bottom or top, depending on the inclination's direction) the axles' edges may "meet" inside the headstock's "spine".
You can shorten them up afterwards of course, by various means, but knowing these “details” before cutting / drilling / routing etc. will keep you out of trouble.

[viento]

Manos, ευχαριστώ !!

[Manos Tourpalis]

Originally Posted by viento

Manos, ευχαριστώ !!

what an unexpected (and pleasant) surprise!

[JDaniel]

I would add one tool (didn't see it mentioned above); an in-cannel gouge, perhaps 8 or 11 mm. Makes cutting that ramp by the nut an easy task. For the OP, that sort of violates the goal of not spending too much, if not already owned.

[viento]

I have already received a set of tuners on a metal plate that looks good.
As this plate is 18mm wide I leave the neck plate at a thickness of ca. 20mm.

And I´ll be very very careful drilling the holes and cutting the slots...
Truss rod acces is from the soundhole and the side bars are 8mm wide.

Thanks again for your kind suggestions
I will keep them in mind!

Here´s a pic of the tuners:

[viento]

An additional question:

Any help idea for drilling those 6 holes in a row for the tuners?
I know Stewmac offers a drill jig for slotted pegheads, but the price... I dont know whether I´ll use this more than once.

[arie]

if you are asking about the spacing dimensions then there are a couple of options here:

-get a hold of the mfg's hole spacing specs.

-with calipers, measure across two posts at the base plate, subtract one post diameter from your measurement and the result will be your center to center distance between one pair of posts. assuming of course that the post placement is equal throughout the tuner -and it really should be, you will now have your incremental hole spacing for all of the posts. don't go crazy about a couple of thou here or there due to manufacturing tolerances.

-if possible, take the tuner apart and use the baseplate as a marking guide for your drill point locations. from your picture, it looks like for certain you can take at least the posts off.

if you are asking about actually drilling the holes, i use a milling machine myself but any decent drill press with a vise or an angle plate will work fine provided you have marked your spots correctly. free handing is risky unless you are really good. you can also try one of those hardware store "drill stands" (for lack of a better word). making the holes perpendicular is pretty important.

[viento]

Thanks for your help!
Indeed I took the tuner apart and was able to copy the holes with this template onto the wood.
With a little drilling aid I could drill the holes perpendicularly and cleaned them with a file afterwards. After finishing with nitro I will have to clean them some more but I'm optimistic...
Next step is shaping the neck and preparing it for the paua shell inlays and the frets.

[Manos Tourpalis]

some cheap hacks

http://www.luthier.gr/index.php?topic=1926.0

plus one - a bit more sofisticated

http://www.luthier.gr/index.php?topi...61003#msg61003

it woud be "all Greek to you" (and all) of course , but the photos contain all the information you need

[viento]

@Manos Tourpalis: ευχαριστώ πολύ!

Btw, sorry, I only know a couple of Greek words...

... but I understand the photos ...