#1
|
|||
|
|||
Drill size for bridge pins?
I am replacing the bridge in a cheap guitar and would like to know what drill bit to use. At frets.com I saw one article that recommended to start with 3/16, hinting that you may have to go bigger after trying pins in the holes. Can someone please confirm that this is a good way to go? I don't want get sophisticated and do tapered holes for this project. Thanks.
__________________
John ------------------------- Alvarez Yairi DY 57 1978 Yamaha FG-110 Yamaha FG-160 Yamaha FG-180 Yamaha FG-800 Fender partscaster Fender MIM Jazz Bass Five old dead basses awaiting resuscitation |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Bridge pins are tapered though. I start with about 3/16 and then use a tapered reamer to size the hole.
I match the drill size to the small end of the pins. You want them snug all the way through the hole both slotted and non slotted pins. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Ok, thanks...I guess I will have to look into a reamer.
__________________
John ------------------------- Alvarez Yairi DY 57 1978 Yamaha FG-110 Yamaha FG-160 Yamaha FG-180 Yamaha FG-800 Fender partscaster Fender MIM Jazz Bass Five old dead basses awaiting resuscitation |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Yes start with either a #11 or 3/16" bit. The most common tapers are 3* & 5*. There are about 4 common pin sizes (1, 1.3T, 2A & 4.2C) so it helps to know size and taper that you are working with.
__________________
Tim B |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
I use #13 bit.
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Measure the width of the pin about half way up and there's your drill bit size. Then you need a reamer. You might be able to get away with using the tail on a rat tail flat file as a reamer provided it matches the taper on the pin.
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Working in wood allows you to use less hard, less expensive tools.
You can get a cheap reamer from Harbor freight for well under $10.
__________________
Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" Taylor GC7, GA3-12, SB2-C, SB2-Cp...... Ibanez AVC-11MHx , AC-240 |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks all. Just bought this cheap set on eBay,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BEADSMITH-WO...item51ad95864e should be good enough for my $65 guitar.
__________________
John ------------------------- Alvarez Yairi DY 57 1978 Yamaha FG-110 Yamaha FG-160 Yamaha FG-180 Yamaha FG-800 Fender partscaster Fender MIM Jazz Bass Five old dead basses awaiting resuscitation |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
you need one like this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Luthier-Tool...item1e812eb0cb the one you bought is probably to small |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Not just any reamer will work, it needs to match the taper of the pins or why taper at all
__________________
THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE JUST FOR YOUR SMILE |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Murrmac123, I think his name is Murray is a sponsor on the forum here and he sells a reamer like the one Printer made in this thread, I have never used one but they look like they would do the job and are 5 and 3 deg to suit guitars. They are much cheaper than the machinist reamer of 5 and 3 degrees but can't remember prices, I think he has them up on ebay though. Some of those cheap ebay machinists reamers are greater than 5 degrees so not really so accurate for bridge pin hole.
Jim |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Those eBay and Harbor Freight reamers are called "plumber's reamers" not luthier's and that pretty much says it all.
|
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Half-fluted reamers are easy enough to make. Grind or file a metal rod to the proper taper, say, by chucking it in the drill press. Once you've got that, file off a little less than half the diameter to make a 'D' shaped cross section. This cuts by a scraping action. If you're not doing too many holes you can make one from aluminum that will work fine. Mild steel will go for quite some time. I made one from drill rod more than thirty years ago that's still going strong.
|
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Yes the half fluted reamer that Alan speaks of is fine option imo. In 2008 I took a tapiered piece of mild steel to a guitar making school I was attending. It was slightly abrasive from the grinding wheel I had held it up to while I rotated it in a hand held drill. I was happy with it at the time as it had already worked for me. When the teacher saw it he filed it to a D shaped profile by hand in less than 5 minuites. I used it on several guitars before changing to hand reamers. I'm still new to hand reamers and have found (to date) that I have to be just as careful to not ream to far as I did with my home made reamer rotating in a power drill.
__________________
The standard you walk past is the standard you accept. |