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  #16  
Old 01-16-2020, 02:25 PM
stevecuss stevecuss is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcl116 View Post
I'd imagine the tonewood would have more of an affect on quality and tone of guitar moreso than hot hide glue?

I'm going to the best quality and best sounding guitar I can go for. If after that I can get something nice like upgraded tuners, upgraded rosette, etc.
Yes, you can take that statement to the bank. wood will have a much bigger impact and many say that Madi Rose is the closest reasonably priced rosewood to the holy grail of all rosewoods - Brazilian Rosewood. If I had the money, between EIR and Madi, I'd go Madi all day long. Looks beautiful too.
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Mcilroy A25c (Cedar, English Walnut) with Schatten HFN (Passive, putty install.)
Martin Custom Shop 00028c with Fishman.
Martin OM21with HFN (putty.)
Gretsch 5422T
50th Anniversary Fender Am Std Strat.
Home Built "Cusstone" 18 Watt Plexi.

If I played as much as I read threads, I'd be a pro....
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  #17  
Old 01-16-2020, 02:42 PM
mcl116 mcl116 is offline
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Originally Posted by stevecuss View Post
Yes, you can take that statement to the bank. wood will have a much bigger impact and many say that Madi Rose is the closest reasonably priced rosewood to the holy grail of all rosewoods - Brazilian Rosewood. If I had the money, between EIR and Madi, I'd go Madi all day long. Looks beautiful too.
Well not sure I can afford to go Madi since that would put the guitar at around $6500 before doing anything else to it if it adds $3k.

But I'd imagine if I got EIR with hot hide glue, GE bracing, adi VTS top, bone nut & saddle, she'll be a pretty sweet sounding instrument.

Would love to get all of that + the Madi but regardless of the discount I get I'm not sure that will be affordable.
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  #18  
Old 01-16-2020, 02:56 PM
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UncleJesse UncleJesse is offline
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If I were going to spend the kind of money it takes for hot hide glue or Madagascar rosewood, I'd be considering a Martin Authentic. It's the top of the food chain for a reason.
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  #19  
Old 01-16-2020, 07:01 PM
llew llew is offline
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I'd strongly suggest playing the D-28 Authentic 1937 before buying as the neck does not suit everyone...wish it did. I'd still have mine?
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  #20  
Old 01-17-2020, 05:43 PM
mcl116 mcl116 is offline
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Originally Posted by UncleJesse View Post
If I were going to spend the kind of money it takes for hot hide glue or Madagascar rosewood, I'd be considering a Martin Authentic. It's the top of the food chain for a reason.
Better than a fully custom built one?
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  #21  
Old 01-25-2020, 08:18 PM
mcl116 mcl116 is offline
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Well after a bit of research and looking around I'm looking at the following options. I'm pretty sure I will be getting this guitar at cost from the dealer as it's one of my mothers very good friends. I actually used to work at the music store he used to own when I was in like 8th grade.

I may have to eliminate some options to get the cost under my budget but here's what I'm thinking. Let me know if there are any other cool things I haven't seen or thought of that are also possible.

I pretty much want the best guitar I can get with a couple of cool unique things that will make it special. Rather the money go towards quality of instrument and I don't like anything too flashy looking either.

D-28 shape
GWR back & sides
Adirondack VTS top
GE Bracing
Quartersawn, no runout
Modern adhesive
Flamed Koa Binding
Flame Koa Headstock
Koa heel cap with my initials in abalone or similar material
Old style butterbean gold tuners
Ebony board
Diamond square long inlays
gold strap button
Fishman electronics
Old style 28 rosette
tortoise pickguard

Last edited by mcl116; 01-26-2020 at 07:26 AM.
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  #22  
Old 01-25-2020, 11:32 PM
banjomule banjomule is offline
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Sounds like a very cool build! Nice choices!
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  #23  
Old 01-26-2020, 01:25 AM
Shadowfox Shadowfox is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcl116 View Post
Well after a bit of research and looking around I'm looking at the following options. I'm pretty sure I will be getting this guitar at cost from the dealer as it's one of my mothers very good friends. I actually used to work at the music store he used to own when I was in like 8th grade.

I may have to eliminate some options to get the cost under my budget but here's what I'm thinking. Let me know if there are any other cool things I haven't seen or thought of that are also possible.

I pretty much want the best guitar I can get with a couple of cool unique things that will make it special. Rather the money go towards quality of instrument and I don't like anything too flashy looking either.

D-28 shape
Madagascar back & sides
Adirondack VTS top
GE Bracing
Quartersawn, no runout
Modern adhesive
Flamed Koa Binding
Flame Koa Headstock
Koa heel cap with my initials in abalone or similar material
Old style butterbean gold tuners
Ebony board
Diamond square long inlays
gold strap button
Fishman electronics
Old style 28 rosette
tortoise pickguard
That looks cool!

Any reason why Fishman? I just think that K&K does the best natural-sounding replication I've heard.

Also, I would advise against the initials. I know you never want to sell it, but you are killing resale value if something ever happened where you *had* to sell.

And would you want a burst?

I'm curious why no hyde glue?
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  #24  
Old 01-26-2020, 04:29 AM
mcl116 mcl116 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadowfox View Post
That looks cool!

Any reason why Fishman? I just think that K&K does the best natural-sounding replication I've heard.

Also, I would advise against the initials. I know you never want to sell it, but you are killing resale value if something ever happened where you *had* to sell.

And would you want a burst?

I'm curious why no hyde glue?
I will be keeping this guitar for life so resale isn't a consideration here.

I'm going no hide glue because the upcharge is insane and I'd rather put that money towards other features.

For the electronics I think I'm actually going to hold off on that for now. Will definitely check out that recommendation thanks!
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  #25  
Old 01-26-2020, 07:24 AM
zoopeda zoopeda is offline
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Is second other’s with the recommendation to play an authentic first. You can’t get many custom features (ie bracing, internal construction, thin fretboard, etc) in the custom shop. You can get a D-28 Authentic for probably less than the guitar you’re building. (There’s a used one on the umgf for $4500). Otherwise, have you considered Guatemalan rosewood as a cheaper, nicer looking alternative to Martins dwindling supply of madi? Also, consider thin finish package.
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  #26  
Old 01-26-2020, 09:02 AM
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Methos1979 Methos1979 is offline
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Here's another suggestion for your build to make it even more special, unique, and most importantly, HUGE sounding tonally: Consider making it a 12-fret dread. Martin recently discontinued their D-1 Authentic line. I guess they just weren't selling well but those who have/had them spoke of them glowingly. I was recently looking into 12-fret dreads on a whim over on Reverb and came across a custom build ordered by a small shop in upstate NY that I just fell in love with.

They based it on the discontinued D-1 but changed a bunch of stuff. They used all flamed mahogany and gave it a 1 3/4" nut, and mod V neck with PA taper. The result was a super-light, mahogany tone monster that looks as great as it sounds. Anyway, I thought I'd throw that out there. So maybe something like sitka over rosewood D-1 with a vintage toner on the top would look old-school awesome and sound incredible. I like a guitar that looks different from the crowd. Otherwise, why not just buy something stock and save yourself a lot of time and money, right?

If you click on the 'Every guitar related review on AGF' link below in my sig line it will take you to a page of reviews where the top one is for that guitar with lots of photos, a video and even more details about the build.

Better yet, here's a direct link:

NGD: Martin D-1 Custom 12 fret all hog slope dread
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  #27  
Old 01-26-2020, 12:57 PM
stevecuss stevecuss is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Methos1979 View Post
Here's another suggestion for your build to make it even more special, unique, and most importantly, HUGE sounding tonally: Consider making it a 12-fret dread. Martin recently discontinued their D-1 Authentic line. I guess they just weren't selling well but those who have/had them spoke of them glowingly. I was recently looking into 12-fret dreads on a whim over on Reverb and came across a custom build ordered by a small shop in upstate NY that I just fell in love with.

They based it on the discontinued D-1 but changed a bunch of stuff. They used all flamed mahogany and gave it a 1 3/4" nut, and mod V neck with PA taper. The result was a super-light, mahogany tone monster that looks as great as it sounds. Anyway, I thought I'd throw that out there. So maybe something like sitka over rosewood D-1 with a vintage toner on the top would look old-school awesome and sound incredible. I like a guitar that looks different from the crowd. Otherwise, why not just buy something stock and save yourself a lot of time and money, right?

If you click on the 'Every guitar related review on AGF' link below in my sig line it will take you to a page of reviews where the top one is for that guitar with lots of photos, a video and even more details about the build.

Better yet, here's a direct link:

NGD: Martin D-1 Custom 12 fret all hog slope dread
+1 on the 12 fret!

+2 on waiting on a pickup. K&K is a great sounding option. I also like Trance and Schatten HFN. The K&K and Schatten will require a preamp of some kind, either an internal one with a battery or an external one.
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Steve
Mcilroy A25c (Cedar, English Walnut) with Schatten HFN (Passive, putty install.)
Martin Custom Shop 00028c with Fishman.
Martin OM21with HFN (putty.)
Gretsch 5422T
50th Anniversary Fender Am Std Strat.
Home Built "Cusstone" 18 Watt Plexi.

If I played as much as I read threads, I'd be a pro....
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  #28  
Old 01-29-2020, 08:39 PM
mcl116 mcl116 is offline
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I'm trying to get this thing as close to $3000 as possible. Here are the features I'm looking at. With GWR is about $1000 over if I go with EIR I can get all of the features and I'll only be $200 over which is acceptable.

Based on this old thread the difference between adi and alpine is only like 200 or 300 so it's not really that much of a savings unless this info is not accurate.

Should I go the fully loaded EIR or GWR without some of the features? If GWR which features would you suggest dropping?

GWR - 1750
Adi - 520
Koa Binding - 370
Bone saddle & pins - 80
Tuners - 106
Long Diamond inlays - 290
Gold strap button - 62
Thin Package - 400 (estimate)
GE Bracing - 270
Initials - 180
Koa Headplate - 100
Aging Toner - 270
No Top Plate - 210
Koa Heel Cap - Seems included in binding pricing
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