Custom Martin Build for 30th

[mcl116]

As my gift for my 30th birthday I'm going to get a custom built Martin.

We have a very close family friend that's going to do the order for me and give me a deal on it. I'm very excited about this!

I saw a couple of comments saying not to go by what the site has as there are many more options and the price is not accurate.

I was wondering what some of the additional options are that I'll need to consider?

Are there some options that are just silly to get? Like maybe something that I could get myself some place for much cheaper and put it on the guitar? Or something that's just plain stupid to pay for?

I also saw that I should be extremely specific in regards to tight grain, perfectly quartered, etc. I am not familiar at all with things of this nature so what should I be very specific about to get the best quality guitar built?

Any other tips, suggestions, personal experiences really appreciated!

[llew]

That's awesome...good for you! Any idea what size guitar you want? Dread, OM, 000, 00? Any preference for tone woods...mahogany or rosewood back and sides? Are you a flatpicker or a fingerpicker or both? Do you want the guitar ornate like the 40 style instruments or more like the 18/28 style guitars? Lots of considerations but some guidance would be helpful.

[mcl116]

Originally Posted by llew

That's awesome...good for you! Any idea what size guitar you want? Dread, OM, 000, 00? Any preference for tone woods...mahogany or rosewood back and sides? Are you a flatpicker or a fingerpicker or both? Do you want the guitar ornate like the 40 style instruments or more like the 18/28 style guitars? Lots of considerations but some guidance would be helpful.

Gonna go with the dread shape. I prefer rosewood back & sides.

I play both but predominantly flatpicker.

I do like the idea of being similar to the famous vintage Martins that made the company what it is today for sure but also thinking of a couple of personal taste things that will spice it up a bit.

I've looked through the options on the website so I've only considered what they offer there.

[tomiv9]

You can specify thin top, some shops do custom runs with that feature advertise it as more responsive. Bracing and top wood are the most important things though for sound. Theres alot of options thatll give u slightly different flavors. For example torrified Adirondack vs non torrified Adirondack vs sitka, etc. And straight bracing vs scalloped vs forward shifted scalloped vs GE bracing.

[mcl116]

Originally Posted by tomiv9

You can specify thin top, some shops do custom runs with that feature advertise it as more responsive. Bracing and top wood are the most important things though for sound. Theres alot of options thatll give u slightly different flavors. For example torrified Adirondack vs non torrified Adirondack vs sitka, etc. And straight bracing vs scalloped vs forward shifted scalloped vs GE bracing.

Is there a difference between forward shifted scalloped and GE bracing?

All the particular appointments available on their site are the easy things to think about.

It's things like a thin top that I never would have thought of so thank you for that!

Is there a pretty well regarded opinion on the standard top wood vs the VTS top wood?

[Mbroady]

I just placed my first custom shop order. It helps to have a dealer with experience guide you and to answer questions, as well as make you aware or the questions your not asking, such as the mentioned thin top or not.

I found it helpful to sample all the current non custom shop models and narrow down what your looking for in a base model. From there you can branch out to specific changes, such as nut size and bridge spacing, natural or Burst finish. It might be something minor such as fret board inlays or a level 5 top (premium wood). Or it can be more complex such as a bracing pattern change.

My order was simple. The base model was a D-35. I only requested 2 custom shop features
One was a 1 11/16 nut with the 2 1/8 bridge spacing, and I wanted a custom burst, which was an amber burst but with slightly darker edges.

I will find out how it turned out in around 6 months

[mcl116]

Originally Posted by Mbroady

I just placed my first custom shop order. It helps to have a dealer with experience guide you and to answer questions, as well as make you aware or the questions your not asking, such as the mentioned thin top or not.

I found it helpful to sample all the current non custom shop models and narrow down what your looking for in a base model. From there you can branch out to specific changes, such as nut size and bridge spacing, natural or Burst finish. It might be something minor such as fret board inlays or a level 5 top (premium wood). Or it can be more complex such as a bracing pattern change.

My order was simple. The base model was a D-35. I only requested 2 custom shop features
One was a 1 11/16 nut with the 2 1/8 bridge spacing, and I wanted a custom burst, which was an amber burst but with slightly darker edges.

I will find out how it turned out in around 6 months

Well my family friend will help me in picking everything but I'd like to have a good amount of knowledge for myself going into it.

I'm going start with either the D28 or HD28 base model I think.

Not looking for anything too fancy. Really would like the best sounding guitar I can get out of the options with 1 or 2 nice appointments to class it up a bit.

[stevecuss]

Congratulations man, what a fun endeavor!

Martin makes a fantastic instrument, however navigating all their options can be challenging, IMO. I highly recommend placing the order through the guidance of a Martin dealer - AGF has many fantastic Martin dealers who know every possible option.

Ok, having said that, if it were me? 28 style (because you love EIR), I'd consider 12 fret and slot head for cool factor, uniqueness and most of all for the tone monster capabilities that come with 12 frets. GE bracing, VTS Adirondack top. Wowzers, what a guitar that would be.

[mcl116]

Originally Posted by stevecuss

Congratulations man, what a fun endeavor!

Martin makes a fantastic instrument, however navigating all their options can be challenging, IMO. I highly recommend placing the order through the guidance of a Martin dealer - AGF has many fantastic Martin dealers who know every possible option.

Ok, having said that, if it were me? 28 style (because you love EIR), I'd consider 12 fret and slot head for cool factor, uniqueness and most of all for the tone monster capabilities that come with 12 frets. GE bracing, VTS Adirondack top. Wowzers, what a guitar that would be.

Sorry for my ignorance but what is a slot head?

What is the difference between I guess standard forward shifted scalloped bracing and GE bracing?

Is it the generally accepted opinion that VTS makes a noticeable difference?

[stevecuss]

Originally Posted by mcl116

Sorry for my ignorance but what is a slot head?

What is the difference between I guess standard forward shifted scalloped bracing and GE bracing?

Is it the generally accepted opinion that VTS makes a noticeable difference?

Great questions. A slot head is a vintage style headstock that looks like an old or a classical guitar. They are trickier to string, but some say the 'string break angle' on a slot head helps with tone. Honestly, I just like them because they are rare and set a guitar apart from the crowd. You can google for a pic. Might love it or hate it.

VTS is a hotly debated topic. I have played several and my own opinion is, yes, it makes a difference.

Bracing: DEFINITELY check what am I about to say with a dealer for accuracy, but I believe GE is always Adirondack braces, not sitka, is lighter and also uses a smaller bridge plate. So as a rough summary, 'forward shifting' is a position, GE is that position plus a different material and girth of brace with a smaller bridge plate.

[Shadowfox]

If you like Rosewood, might try going a little more exotic like a cocobolo or Madagascar Rosewood.

Also, Alpine Spruce/Euro Spruce is a very nice addition. It seems to be less punchy than a traditional Sitka, but smoothes the tone out, and plays really well with harmonics.

[mcl116]

What's the verdict on the hot hide glue?

Any idea on what an upgrade to Madagascar back & sides would cost?

[Brucebubs]

This is a Martin slot-head.



I'd look at some nice fret markers like the snowflakes on the D-42.

[stevecuss]

Originally Posted by mcl116

What's the verdict on the hot hide glue?

Any idea on what an upgrade to Madagascar back & sides would cost?

Well, its always a matter of budget and value. If budget is of no concern, then yes, absolutely to hot hide glue. Makes the guitar more valuable, more unique. Some claim it improves tone - that's very hard to prove.

Madi Rose: I would guess it would add $3k, but again, time to chat with a dealer!

[mcl116]

Originally Posted by stevecuss

Well, its always a matter of budget and value. If budget is of no concern, then yes, absolutely to hot hide glue. Makes the guitar more valuable, more unique. Some claim it improves tone - that's very hard to prove.

Madi Rose: I would guess it would add $3k, but again, time to chat with a dealer!

I'd imagine the tonewood would have more of an affect on quality and tone of guitar moreso than hot hide glue?

I'm going for the best quality and best sounding guitar I can go for. If after that I can get something nice like upgraded tuners, upgraded rosette, etc.