Build #3: sitka/black walnut 000

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by packocrayons

I've found when dealing with a bit of runout (and planing into the runout), a higher angle plane tears out less. Scraper plane may have been an exaggeration.

Does the plane you use have an adjustable throat?

During a class on hand tools, Rob Cosman promised us students that "95%" of woods can be planed to a finished surface - no tear-out - using a hand plane. I didn't think so, based on my many years of (largely ignorant) experience, but went at the piece of wood I had that was full of reversing grain direction.

After a few strokes of the plane and lots of tear-out, he suggested I close the throat to nearly zero. I tried that, but still had tear-out on the piece of wood I was using. He came by and I said, "See it isn't working". He looked at the plane I was using and said, that that wasn't "nearly zero" throat closure and then adjusted it to the point that there was only the narrowest band of light visible between the blade and the throat. Used that way, it eliminated all of the tear-out. (Yes the plane was sharp, but sharp wasn't the key.)

In some woods, a higher bedding angle/bevel can help, but I've not found that to be necessary in very soft woods like spruce and cedar. Blade/bedding angle and throat size are just two among the variety of "tools" in the arsenal of hand planing.

Of course, sharp is the most important

As my story illustrates, sharp is a prerequisite but not the most important factor.

[packocrayons]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

Does the plane you use have an adjustable throat?

During a class on hand tools, Rob Cosman promised us students that "95%" of woods can be planed to a finished surface - no tear-out - using a hand plane. I didn't think so, based on my many years of (largely ignorant) experience, but went at the piece of wood I had that was full of reversing grain direction.

After a few strokes of the plane and lots of tear-out, he suggested I close the throat to nearly zero. I tried that, but still had tear-out on the piece of wood I was using. He came by and I said, "See it isn't working". He looked at the plane I was using and said, that that wasn't "nearly zero" throat closure and then adjusted it to the point that there was only the narrowest band of light visible between the blade and the throat. Used that way, it eliminated all of the tear-out. (Yes the plane was sharp, but sharp wasn't the key.)

In some woods, a higher bedding angle/bevel can help, but I've not found that to be necessary in very soft woods like spruce and cedar. Blade/bedding angle and throat size are just two among the variety of "tools" in the arsenal of hand planing.



As my story illustrates, sharp is a prerequisite but not the most important factor.

I rarely remember to close the throat. My main plane I use for thinning plates is an old 1908 stanley no5 - it requires moving the frog to adjust the throat, which can be cumbersome. I'll definitely keep it in mind next time I run into these issues.

A plane with a proper adjustable throat I adjust often - and I agree it definitely helps.

[redir]

Originally Posted by Neil K Walk

Thanks! I kind of got the methodology with using a brick and measuring at where the X brace intersection but found precious little on what actual distances I was looking for. This guitar will have 1/4" bracing so I'm thinking that less than .3 would be safer.

The thickness of the bracing (assuming that is what you are talking about) is not really relevant. But the height of it is. If you have a book or some plans then you will be fine. Deflection testing starts to become valuable after about 5 guitars of each type, dred, OM, parlor and so on. So starting to collect it now is a good idea. Document it well and ALWAYS use the same method and tools to do it.

I also do braced top deflection as well.

[Neil K Walk]

Thanks again for your advice so far, everyone! I did what you said to do Charles, and things went much smoother, like a hot knife through butter.

[Neil K Walk]

The planing technique also provides some beautiful results on the sitka as there is not dust to cloud the grain. For a $20 "student" set of Sitka the silking of this top is striking. It's actually visually nicer than the top of my Larrivee OM-03R.



The top is REALLY thin though. The "low spot" is .077" thick!

[Neil K Walk]

I ordered and received another sitka soundboard and it's acclimating while I build my mold and forms. I'd made them out of MDF previously but I wasn't happy with how it turned out (the MDF started coming apart) so I did it over in birch plywood. Otherwise for the most part I've just been doing spring cleaning and home improvement projects. My biggest splurge was for a "starter" table saw and a flush cut router bit for my router table.







During the course of my tinkerings I noted that I'd saved some circular cutouts that could be used as a rudimentary sanding drum. In doing research I have seen various types of plans from the very complex (with their own feeder conveyor belts with a hand crank) to the very simple that are powered by a hand drill. I would probably go with the latter. I also want to make a simplified bending apparatus and am planning on ordering a nylon heating blanket and steel slats.

[Treenewt]

Neil, I love the headstock overlay on that walnut! Beautiful! I'm enjoying following along on this one.

[Neil K Walk]

Thanks! I bought several bookmatched ziricote head plates several years ago. When I saw how the grain created a wedge nearly the same angle as the Martin headstock I had to use it. Unfortunately I couldn’t afford $500 for a set of sorority for my third build. Maybe #30 if I ever get my act together!

[Treenewt]

Originally Posted by Neil K Walk

Thanks! I bought several bookmatched ziricote head plates several years ago. When I saw how the grain created a wedge nearly the same angle as the Martin headstock I had to use it. Unfortunately I couldn’t afford $500 for a set of sorority for my third build. Maybe #30 if I ever get my act together!

Zirocote! I see it now (totally thought it was figured walnut to match your back!). Either way, it's sharp!

[Neil K Walk]

I've got the bending form and mold done.





I'm shifting focus now to the sanding drum for the sides so that I can get it down to a uniform .1" thick. I use the hot pipe for binding but I'm debating on using it for the sides.

[Neil K Walk]

Sorry about all the broken photo links. I'm stopped using photo storage sites to archive photos as they were watermarking everything or putting caps on limits. I've opted to just put them out on Instagram and shoot videos on my phone to put up on YouTube. I've actually had a few inquiries from musicians I follow on Instagram. I have no illusions that this will be anything more than a side hustle at best, but I need to step things up. Life is short.

Here's the latest video where I (re)joint the Sitka top. As you can see, my operation is pretty bare bones and at this point I'm just trying to build up my confidence.



PS: the top has been sanded down to pretty close to what will be its final thickness (.11") but I know that's just a number and not something that is set in stone regarding this guitar's tone and final dimensions. I need to learn more about how to do deflection testing in order to get a better understanding of that, so I'm leaving it and the back plate up on stickers to keep them from warping since the weather is still so unpredictable. According to my manual hygrometer the RH is hovering around 40% which is still technically in the comfort zone. I've got my finished guitar (2 factory guitars and my first build) out in my home office and there are no issues with them so I'm hoping this is a sign that I can finally finish build #2 (which really just needs to have the bridge glued on so that I can string it up) and put more time into this and future builds.

[Fathand]

Originally Posted by Neil K Walk

Sorry about all the broken photo links. I'm stopped using photo storage sites to archive photos as they were watermarking everything or putting caps on limits. I've opted to just put them out on Instagram and shoot videos on my phone to put up on YouTube. I've actually had a few inquiries from musicians I follow on Instagram. I have no illusions that this will be anything more than a side hustle at best, but I need to step things up. Life is short.

Here's the latest video where I (re)joint the Sitka top. As you can see, my operation is pretty bare bones and at this point I'm just trying to build up my
PS: the top has been sanded down to pretty close to what will be its final thickness (.11") but I know that's just a number and not something that is set in stone regarding this guitar's tone and final dimensions. I need to learn more about how to do deflection testing in order to get a better understanding of that, so I'm leaving it and the back plate up on stickers to keep them from warping since the weather is still so unpredictable. According to my manual hygrometer the RH is hovering around 40% which is still technically in the comfort zone. I've got my finished guitar (2 factory guitars and my first build) out in my home office and there are no issues with them so I'm hoping this is a sign that I can finally finish build #2 (which really just needs to have the bridge glued on so that I can string it up) and put more time into this and future builds.

Well that's a lot more glue than I would use and there is no reason to put it on both sides of the joint. It won't hurt anything but you'll have more mess to clean up.

[Neil K Walk]

Originally Posted by Fathand

Well that's a lot more glue than I would use and there is no reason to put it on both sides of the joint. It won't hurt anything but you'll have more mess to clean up.

I would agree, but what's done is done and it's all cleaned up now. Thanks for watching. Part of the reason I put it up is for feedback on what I could be doing better.

PS: this is actually the second time I jointed this set. The first attempt actually came apart, though not at the joint.

[Neil K Walk]

First side is bent. One caveat: the paper you use to wrap the side in will have an effect on the color moving forward.



PS: even though I shot and edited this on my phone with iMovie and used a song from the software that was supposed to be royalty free as the soundtrack I still got a copyright claim on the music. Fortunately the publisher seems to be OK with it.

[Neil K Walk]

The following day I learned my lesson and bent the other side: