#16
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I don't know how true it is, I've read the rosette serves a structural purpose, that in mind, I absolutely had the simplest ornamentation in mind .. binding because it protects end grain, and rosette as noted above. |
#17
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It may actually be easier to build with a single layer of binding than none, as your top and back to side joints no longer have to be cosmetically perfect. My current mahogany top build has binding for that reason. |
#18
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Agreed on the binding as an expedient in the joint cosmetics. That joint needs to be structural, and achieving optimal structure and cosmetics at the same time aren't necessarily compatible objectives. |
#19
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"Wobble" test is news to me. But I suspect it is not far off of what i have been doing for at least 25 years, which is to thin the plates until they will no longer produce a clear fundamental tap tone, and become what I call "Floofy", which just means too floppy to make a clear tone. I then brace them back into integrity and shave the braces back to where the tap tone is as full as possible and has has lost its tightness. I suspect this is too subtle to be taught with words, and may not be for everyone, but it sure works for me.
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#20
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It's too late (early) for me to think through more than that just now :-) |
#21
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a thought
I like the flow of the conversation to prioritize the soundboard. My opinion is that the back/sides are along for the ride, especially for a learning builder. No flames please, we've all heard them all ad nauseam. And I think they have little to no relevance to someone developing a luthier's eye.
About 'practice' b/s sets: I've bought what I could afford from a couple of dedicated luthiers' wood vendors and I've been very pleased (RC Tonewoods, A. Hix). All the tops I've used have come from Alaska Specialty Woods. So far I haven't spent anything close to three hundred bucks on materials - - - finish and hardware included - - for any one guitar. Lots of learning and shop time for very little cash. |
#22
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a thought
The 'wobble test': When a soundboard held by a corner and gets shaken and sounds like a piece aluminum getting the same treatment, it's time to stop thinning. And for OP this will be easy if the thickness sander can take the whole joined soundboard.
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#23
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Phavriluk’s recent description of “wobble” does indeed sound like “floofy”. |
#24
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One of the things I like about the wobble test is that it will adjust itself to the size of guitar you are building. That, and it requires no equipment and little skill. |
#25
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I appreciate all the feedback, almost as much as I'm excited to get started on this! |
#26
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a thought
Soundboards are sold graded ONLY BY APPEARANCE. We pay for pretty. Can't hear 'pretty'. That 'nice top' may no doubt be a pretty top, but we're making guitars, not coffee tables. That pretty top might be a complete dud acoustically.
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#27
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Which is why pretty tops from whatever vendor isn't plan A :-).
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#28
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Practice making some tops and backs with acquired wood. Do you have resawing and sanding equipment? Rosette and sound hole router? A guitar plan?
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#29
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OM / OOO size is the plan. |
#30
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a thought
A thickness sander makes short and accurate work of sanding to desired thickness all the tonewood, top, back, and sides. Scraping and planing is unnecessary work with ambiguous results compared to what comes out of a thickness sander. From the sound of OP's description of the wood shop that can be used, there's one in there somewhere.
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