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#1
08-22-2013, 10:38 PM
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A few tips requested on a setup
I picked-up a Washburn WD10SCE on a whim because it was $40 and I thought, if it was a train wreck, I could experiment with it (think porting, messing with bridge/nut, truss rod etc.). I'm new to guitars so most of any sort of adjustment is a new endeavor for me.
It was unstrung when I picked it up. The neck had an arch to it but the neck is robustly tight, the bridge secure, and there are no cracks or other molestations of any kind. Basically a very lightly played instrument that is in really good shape. I strung it up with some 80/20s I had and some of the arch came out under stress. I gave the truss rod a couple of eighth turns to the left (loosen) and the neck straightened nicely. However, there is a first fret buzz on the G and D strings when plucked hard open. The action at the first fret is really low but is really high at the 12th - 14th fret. It looks to me like the saddle needs to be lowered quite a bit (there is an under saddle pickup). My question is whether or not I should try tapping that first fret wire down to eliminate the fret buzz. If that indeed works, can I then lower the saddle height or will I get into trouble all over again? Perhaps I should loosen the truss rod a few more eighths first in order to get a little bit of bow? Any recommendations appreciated. Not too worried about messing up this guitar although it is in really nice shape. I'm just trying to learn some basic guitar adjusting skills. thanks up front!
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Martin CEO-7, Martin 000-15sm, Gibson J-35, Ibanez AC240, Yamaha FD01S, Journey RT660 
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#2
08-23-2013, 12:06 AM
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You might find it interesting to read this: http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/f...d.php?t=287468 Also a search on this forum will show up many similar questions where some good discussion and recommendations are made.
From what you say you need to go a bit further with your truss-rod adjustment as you suggest, to get some 'relief' in the neck and reduce the saddle height. Seems you are already on the right track, but the above is worth the read.
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#4
08-23-2013, 06:55 AM
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Thanks much for the feedback!
I suspected as much with the nut. Strange thing is that I'm quite certain it is stock -- not sure how it got so low. It appears that the nut needs to be raised and the bridge lowered a tad. I'll approach this systematically.
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Martin CEO-7, Martin 000-15sm, Gibson J-35, Ibanez AC240, Yamaha FD01S, Journey RT660
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#5
08-23-2013, 10:05 AM
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-replace the nut. the slots are either too low or have the wrong profile for your current string gauge. meaning that the previous (possibly larger i assume?) set was riding high in slots that are more v shaped then round. smaller diameter strings would then seat lower. either way you have to do something about it. a high quality replacement, properly slotted and shaped, is an excellent choice. i'm not a big fan of shimming, super gluing, tooth pasting, or other nonsense (imo of course) a new part properly fitted, is a solid fix nearly every time.
-check your neck angle too while you're at it. everything else you tweak kinda revolves around this being correct, or at least serviceable. Last edited by arie; 08-23-2013 at 10:14 AM.
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#6
08-26-2013, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
You do , of course have to have a method of getting the inserts totally accurate ...I use a spindle sander with a custom built fence for the purpose ...an hour's work will give you enough inserts to last several lifetimes. You do also have to have the necessary manual skill to be able to make the fix invisible...but once you have the knack, it's a lot quicker than removing the old nut and recutting a new one.
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