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  #151  
Old 10-19-2013, 01:16 PM
Todd Rose Todd Rose is offline
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Thanks. I'll see what I can do to fix this.
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  #152  
Old 10-19-2013, 01:33 PM
Todd Rose Todd Rose is offline
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If anyone is still having trouble seeing the photos in this thread, please go here: https://www.facebook.com/todd.rose.7...=3&uploaded=16
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  #153  
Old 10-19-2013, 01:36 PM
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  #154  
Old 10-19-2013, 05:16 PM
Maks Lavrov Maks Lavrov is offline
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That's better, and that's a really nice bridge design! I like it.
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  #155  
Old 10-19-2013, 06:53 PM
Todd Rose Todd Rose is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maks Lavrov View Post
That's better, and that's a really nice bridge design! I like it.
Thanks, Maks!
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  #156  
Old 10-23-2013, 03:16 PM
Todd Rose Todd Rose is offline
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Some more photos of the bridge-making process...






(Of course, I sanded until all marks were gone, and then did it again, just to be sure.)


Mounted for carving -


Meticulously, painstakingly, time-consumingly carved -


Bridge pin holes chamfered -


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  #157  
Old 10-23-2013, 03:18 PM
Todd Rose Todd Rose is offline
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And, finally, it is meticulously, painstakingly, time-consumingly sanded and polished until it looks like this:





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  #158  
Old 10-23-2013, 03:26 PM
Nemoman Nemoman is offline
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Very cool bridge design, Todd! (I can see the pics here once again...)
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  #159  
Old 10-24-2013, 11:51 PM
Solariego Solariego is offline
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Thanks for the continuing pictures Todd.

How did you create the 28' convex dome for shaping the underside of the bridge?

For mine, I made a convex profile that could be followed with the robosander, but you have to do it BEFORE the wings are tapered, or it flexes too much.
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  #160  
Old 10-25-2013, 04:59 AM
Todd Rose Todd Rose is offline
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I think I bought that one, but I have made others simply by sanding a piece of plywood or MDF inside a radius dish. To date, I have not made my own radius dishes. I've bought them, mostly from High Mountain Tonewoods.

http://www.highmountaintonewood.com/id27.htm

Sanding the radius into the bottom of the bridge requires careful attention and finesse-of-hand.
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  #161  
Old 10-25-2013, 04:27 PM
Solariego Solariego is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd Rose View Post
I think I bought that one, but I have made others simply by sanding a piece of plywood or MDF inside a radius dish. To date, I have not made my own radius dishes. I've bought them, mostly from High Mountain Tonewoods.

http://www.highmountaintonewood.com/id27.htm

Sanding the radius into the bottom of the bridge requires careful attention and finesse-of-hand.
Doh! Of course, that would be simple. If you counter sunk a mounting bolt, you could spin it the end of a drill to make the sanding faster.

I'm also planning on making some large diameter (24") convex forms to use for making a "back taper profile" jig. Ie, cut out the shape of the guitar, tilt it on the outside of the sides to show you just where the sides need to be cut. I don't correctly, you could even use a router to trim the sides quickly.

But I'll need my CNC set up in order to make those well.
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  #162  
Old 11-01-2013, 04:47 AM
Todd Rose Todd Rose is offline
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It's time to put the neck on, just for a preliminary check of the adjustable neck joint system.



Left to right: The lower set screw, the bolt that holds the neck on, and the upper two set screws with their little jam nuts. EDIT after completing the guitar: In the end, I decided not to use the little jam nuts. One of the two upper set screws (the treble side one, which is much harder to access) is secured in place with thread locker. The other one, on the bass side, easy to get to through the sound hole, has no thread locker, so it can be easily adjusted if necessary. So far, with the guitar strung up, the neck position is perfectly stable.





Hardware in:



The three set screws form a tripod on which the neck stands, allowing for adjustment in all directions. In practice, the two top set screws will be set once when the guitar is complete, and probably never adjusted again.


Neck on:




With the neck on and the angle adjusted approximately right, I am happy that the gap at the bottom of the heel is a little bigger than at the top, as I had planned it to be. When I put the neck on for real, I will make the whole gap a little smaller by starting with the two top set screws projecting less.




It's a different look, for sure. I think it's cool how the neck appears to just kinda float there, as if held on by energy.







It's almost a guitar! (The bridge is just taped on with low tack tape for now.)
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  #163  
Old 11-01-2013, 05:15 AM
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fazool fazool is offline
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Awesome looking guitar and build
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  #164  
Old 11-01-2013, 05:21 AM
Todd Rose Todd Rose is offline
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Thanks, Fazool!
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  #165  
Old 11-01-2013, 09:25 AM
Nemoman Nemoman is offline
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Very nice design, Todd. Really like how the neck profile mirrors the shape of the soundhole. Beautiful work--looking forward to hearing it with its neck in action!
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