#1
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table saw recommendation
I'm hoping there are some wood workers out there that could provide some guidance on a first table saw purchase. I'm a bit handy and have always done basic things around the house but I'd like to try building some patio furniture (mostly the 2x4 diy stuff that has been all the rage on YouTube lately) and hopefully try to build some nicer indoor stuff after that.
I don't have a huge amount of space so I've been looking at the smaller job site style saws. It seems like the biggest choice is between 8.25in and 10in blades, with the difference often being that the smaller blade size saws don't accept a dado stack. It seems like going with the larger blade size would be the better bet if you plan to use a cross cutting sled, as that will eat up some of your cutting height. The models I was mostly looking at are the Dewalt DWE7485 for the 8.25 or the Dewalt DWE7491RS and Rigid R4514 for the 10in (there is also the Rigid R4550 and it's not super clear what's different between the two). Just wondering if anyone has experience with these particular models or if they would recommend others? The main reason I'm looking at the job site saw is that I can store it in my basement but take it out to the yard to actually use. Unforatly my space currently doesn't allow me to do anything larger (either with a cabinet saw, or building a big table/work area for the job site saw). thanks!
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2021 Fender Telecaster (Player Series) 2014 Yamaha FS700 2020 Rouge RD80 - sold 2014 Epiphone Les Paul Junior - sold |
#2
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i just, over the last three weeks, went through this whole discussion with a friend who is intent upon outfitting a new "shop." it all boiled down to the dreaded, "it depends."
when i started out, i had a perfectly functional old craftsman "contractor" saw that i mounted on a cart with wheels. it worked fine as long as i didn't want to do fine woodworking. i dialed it in pretty well and was able to construct all manner of outdoor furniture (and shop stuff) in combination with a compound miter saw (12" blade). as my skills improved, i quickly realized the table saw was not capable of making cuts to the accuracy i needed to make the stuff i wanted with the quality i was looking for; i've heard folks strive for cuts within 1/64" accuracy. on the other hand, i wasn't making pianos. i ended up getting a big old 220v cabinet saw with lots of power and versatility and dust collection. my homemade table sled provides cuts accurate to .002". i suppose i could make a piano if i were so inclined (i find the judicious application of a random orbital sander makes me appear to have mad woodworking skills...). so, back to the discussion with my friend a few weeks ago. after a lot of talk and researching all the usual suspects on the interwebs and visiting the brick and mortar joints (pun intended) like Lowes and the Home Despot, he finally admitted that he had: 1. very limited space 2. very limited need or desire to actually make anything other than shelves or shop-quality cabinets 3. a VERY occasional need to cut a full sized piece of panel goods (4'x8') i recommended that he buy: 1. a good circular saw 2. a good track system to allow him to use the circular saw as a track saw 3. a good compound miter saw you can do pretty much everything with just those three tools that you can do on a table saw other than rabbets/dadoes (sp?). but, if you add the final (crucial, imho) element to your shop, a router, you can dispense with a table saw completely. but, if you're set on a table saw of the contractor variety, go with at least a 10" (at least 60 tpi) blade and be sure you have some way to fully stabilize the saw when you're using it (i'm not impressed by the stands that come with these things). the KEY to a usable saw is the fence and your ability to align the blade (front and back) and/or table. for safety, make sure it has an anti-kickback feature with a fully covered blade thingie (can't remember the actual name for those things). then, figure in the cost of a decent miter gauge; the ones that come with the saws are usually too small and garbage for decent safety/quality. truthfully, if you're doing a lot of 2x4 construction, a compound miter saw is all you really need. with a 12" blade you can cut up to a 4x4 and a 1x6. if you get a sliding model you can, obviously, make wider cuts. i like the dewalt stuff, mostly because it's all yellow and i can find stuff easier...i haven't really seen much difference in most of those saw brands...unless you go really cheap. hth |
#3
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I have this one from Lowe's.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-10-i...Saw/1001072040 It folds up easily, it is easy to move around, you can stand it in a corner and the footprint is not very big, it is light enough to lift into a truck or an SUV even, and it is a full size saw, not a bench top or hobby saw. I doubt you are going to tackle a job it won't handle. I've had mine four years, no complaints.
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Please don't take me too seriously, I don't. Taylor GS Mini Mahogany. Guild D-20 Gretsch Streamliner Morgan Monroe MNB-1w https://www.minnesotabluegrass.org/ |
#4
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You should consider the SawStop 10'' Jobsite Saw PRO. It cost more than those you listed but it can't cut you. Guitarists seem to enjoy the use of all their fingers.
https://www.rockler.com/sawstop-10-i...a9c9c5aff106d4 |
#5
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I set out to buy a table saw last summer. Problem was that the distance from where it had to be unloaded to the spot where it had to be set up was just to great and uneven to move such a heavy object. We (the missus and I) cut not even lift the ones we looked at. We went with a 10 inch miter saw since I mostly only wanted to cut 2x4, 2x6 and 4x4 wood. The miter saw works great for that.
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#6
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I agree that cross-cutting 2x boards is what a miter saw does best. A 8.25 saw won't have the cutting capacity for a 4x4. DeWalts are fine. Bosch and Makita are also respectable brands in this style. I think woodworking magazine reviews give the edge to Bosch. Sawstop is safer, but pricey.
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#7
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I think the best table saws out there across the board are the sawstops. They are more expensive, but amazingly well built and how do you put a price on a finger. They make portable and cabinet saws.
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PS. I love guitars! |
#8
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Yup. Count your fingers before you buy a saw. I have friends who have less fingers after they bought saws. My eight fingered brother in law bought a SawStop but bought it too late.
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Kopp Trail Boss - Kopp L—02 - Collings C10 Custom - Gibson J-200 Jr - Halcyon 000 - Larrivee 00-70 |
#9
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ripping along
I've used my Dewalt for 6 years or so and have ripped all kinds of boards and not all of them new or straight. I have had not one issue. The blade that came with it was great by the way.
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#10
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I've had the Dewalt DWE7491RS that you're considering for 4+ years now. I needed it for some home projects at the time and had limited space to store it. I've had zero problems with it. The rolling stand is stable and it's footprint for storage met my needs. It makes the rips I need it to with the precision I require, but I'm not making furniture or anything - not to say it won't fit that need, but I've not had occasion to push it to its limits.
Be safe and have fun making sawdust, whatever you end up with. Austin |
#11
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I have a Jet and my son a Sawstop. Both are excellent. You pay more for the Sawstop just to save fingers - if you screw up. My son is of course younger than me so he has more time to screw up. Makes sense.
Between the ones you are considering, I'd want the larger blade. It will be far more useful. And I'd prefer DeWalt to Ridgid any day.
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The Bard Rocks Fay OM Sinker Redwood/Tiger Myrtle Sexauer L00 Adk/Magnolia For Sale Hatcher Jumbo Bearclaw/"Bacon" Padauk Goodall Jumbo POC/flamed Mahogany Appollonio 12 POC/Myrtle MJ Franks Resonator, all Australian Blackwood Blackbird "Lucky 13" - carbon fiber '31 National Duolian + many other stringed instruments. |
#12
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I wanted a compact, easily portable table saw, and bought a Dewalt DWE7485 (8.25” blade) a couple of months ago. It’s very well made, and would be fine for the OP's project. For more serious cabinet work the 10” model would be better, but require more room.
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1950 Martin 00-18 RainSong Concert Hybrid Orchestra Model 12 Fret Eastman E20OOSS. Strandberg Boden Original 6 Eastman T185MX G&L ASAT Classic USA Butterscotch Blonde Rickenbacher Lap Steel Voyage-Air VAD-2 Martin SW00-DB Machiche 1968 Guild F-112 Taylor 322e 12 Fret V Class |
#13
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When I was still practicing Anesthesia, on more than a few occasions I recall going to the ER to assess a sixty something guy with his hand wrapped in a bloody towel. I’m not talking about Harry Homeowner who had a mishap with his Home Depot special. These guys, every one of them, we’re professionals with years of experience.
I figured if THIS guy can make a mistake like that, I sure can. I treat my table saw like it’s a barrel of snakes and am extremely careful how I handle it.
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#14
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thanks all for the feedback, much appreciated!
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2021 Fender Telecaster (Player Series) 2014 Yamaha FS700 2020 Rouge RD80 - sold 2014 Epiphone Les Paul Junior - sold |
#15
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There are 2 tools that I am especially careful of -- Table Saws and Shapers/Routers.
The table saw injures so many people and as a guitar builder and player, I really want to protect my hands. If you have enough money, get the SawStop brand. However, the SawStop doesn't avoid one of the worst table saw accidents -- and those are from kickback, which can also severely maim or kill you. It really comes down to technique. Make sure you watch plenty of safety vids on YouTube before you start operating a saw. And the most important piece of advice I can give you is NEVER lose focus. The accidents typically happen when folks are doing batch items. Making the same cut several times or more and they get careless. So be careful out there !!! |