#16
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Martin D18 Gibson J45 Martin 00015sm Gibson J200 Furch MC Yellow Gc-CR SPA Guild G212 Eastman E2OM-CD |
#17
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I built an archtop that is really well suited to lowered tunings - D-D is what I normally keep it at. What made a big difference is having the sound port in the upper bout, instead of normal F-holes. The "air resonance" is around a low F, and the bass response is superior. I think those two things go hand in hand, and I've read that moving the sound port to that area of the top/side is known to lower the resonant frequency.
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Brian Evans Around 15 archtops, electrics, resonators, a lap steel, a uke, a mandolin, some I made, some I bought, some kinda showed up and wouldn't leave. Tatamagouche Nova Scotia. |
#18
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If you know you'll be in a specific lowered tuning, you can get more precise. Martin Simpson, who someone mentioned, has been known to use a 15 for his 1st string. Jon Gomm, who often tunes down to a Bb, uses a custom set with a 68 6th string and 14 on top (all on a standard, albeit "large" Lowden O model).
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Music: Spotify, Bandcamp Videos: You Tube Channel Books: Hymns for Fingerstyle Guitar (std tuning), Christmas Carols for Fingerstyle Guitar (std tuning), A DADGAD Christmas, Alternate Tunings book Online Course: Alternate Tunings for Fingerstyle Guitar |
#19
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Have been experimenting with my Olson Dreadnought down a full step and tried Medium (13-56), Medium/Light (Med treble/Light bottom) and Light/Medium (Light trebles/Medium bottom). Like the Light/Medium the best for standard intervals downtuned. At ½ step down Light gauge with the 1st string bumped up one weight worked fine. And I like the tone ½ step down better than full step down. |
#20
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#21
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Music: Spotify, Bandcamp Videos: You Tube Channel Books: Hymns for Fingerstyle Guitar (std tuning), Christmas Carols for Fingerstyle Guitar (std tuning), A DADGAD Christmas, Alternate Tunings book Online Course: Alternate Tunings for Fingerstyle Guitar |
#22
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Thanks all, for the insights. This is helpful. A few things I didn't mention regarding my thinking are based on my main guitar a SCGC 000 12 with fancy woods. I like it for its thick deep but not woofy tone with lots of bloom, and its vibrant springy loose feel. It swings between standard, single or double dropped D and maybe DADGAD every time I play it. But low string at C feels floppy and the low notes loose definition, no bite. Also re-tuning more than two strings on the fly gets a bit much for me. That's why I want a dedicated guitar for Orkney and open tunings. And I want a few more accessible frets.
The other guitar I'm drawn to is a SCGC 12-fret cutaway slope-shouldered Dred in Mahogany & Adirondack. That guitar was surely built with bluegrass picking and folk strumming in mind. Kind of the opposite playing style than I like to do. But somehow it's my favorite guitar at Sylvan, my local shop. And if I go that way, I'd be spending more but helping out my local shop and luthiers. The custom luthier I'm talking to is Steve Denvir. He offers a tremendous value at the moment, and is willing to build a bit non-traditional. The custom build I described above is a mix of my ideas and his suggestions. But obviously I couldn't play it to try it out until it exists. The non-radiused top was his idea, I think in response to my preference for a looser feel and deeper voice. I had in mind fan frets for a tighter low string, but am a bit afraid of going too far in this direction hence 1/2" of fan. Maybe I'd ask for a bit more if I pull the trigger. Oh, and 13-fret came from my request for a 12-fret for thicker tone but some issue with how the fan-fret bridge would align with the bracing. Regarding the tone port, my 000-12 produces a lot of sound but I still find myself tilting it and bending my neck to get my ear a bit more over the top. I'm a home player, no audience, and I want all the tone for myself! I don't know the details of guitar builds, but I've read that active-back is a build-style that also adds a vibrancy and looser feeling. Some guitars have stiff back to throw the sound out more immediately. But that's knowledge beyond my pay grade. Last night I was thinking about where I'd want the straight fret. I think the center of my range puts my bar-finger & thumb at the 5th fret, E-form A for example. Of course I'm down in open position often enough and also wander up the neck chasing some melody. But from that I guess I'd want the straight fret to be the 5th? ljguitar, that Bashkin is is magnificent! I'd be overjoyed if a guitar like that lived at my house. Rock on, everybody! /jd Last edited by joeld; 05-27-2020 at 02:39 PM. |
#23
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Is that SGGC short scale? That can be a bit more of an issue, since you're at a lower tension to start with.
Have you tried any of the typical DADGAD sets? Pearse New Mediums, D'Addario EJ24s, GHS New Mediums, etc. They should be perfect for what you're describing. I go from standard to Orkney all the time with them, no issues. Guitars with longer scale length may be slightly helpful. For example, my Ryan is 25.7 scale length, and it might do slightly better with low C than others. It kind of sounds like you're just hoping to get a new guitar :-) Nothing wrong with that...
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Music: Spotify, Bandcamp Videos: You Tube Channel Books: Hymns for Fingerstyle Guitar (std tuning), Christmas Carols for Fingerstyle Guitar (std tuning), A DADGAD Christmas, Alternate Tunings book Online Course: Alternate Tunings for Fingerstyle Guitar |
#24
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My 000 is 25.4". I've tried the shorter scale ones, which do sound good, but not as crisp as I prefer I guess.
Yep, must... have... new... guitar... I think I've got some clear and reasonable goals in mind though. I'd love to try a Ryan someday. Last edited by joeld; 05-27-2020 at 02:57 PM. |
#25
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If the total offset is divided in half (¾" offset means ⅜" tilt at each end) the perpendicular fret wire ends up around/between the 8th and 9th fret. For players who keep the headstock elevated at least chin high, the angle of the fretting hand naturally shifts in the direction of the fan at that point without even thinking about it. This is why a ¾" offset is pretty invisible. But an experienced builder who has a lot of fanned frets under their belt could set the shift point to wherever you want. It's much more dependent (for me) where my elbow hangs naturally which is mid-neck. Keeping the headstock chin high with the fretting arm relaxed means the elbow is closer to the body, and acts as the pivot point between the ends of the fingerboard. |
#26
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My baritone 12-string is a Martin Pete Seeger. They're hard to find now.
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#27
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look around and see if you can find a 0000 size martin jumbo shape to play, or one of the breedlove jumbos(ed Gerhard models), these are thin depth but jumbo size, easy to sit and play since the depth is more shallow, the jumbo shape waist fits well when seated, and all these sound really nice tuned low as you have mentioned. Ed Gerhard lives in dropped tunings and does go into C on many.
rob Calcutta had a bourgeois Martin Simpson model in the classifieds of late, these are amazing and it was built around use for lots of alternate/dropped tunings. https://www.acousticguitarforum.com/...d.php?t=581383 https://reverb.com/item/33687472-bou...impson-natural |
#28
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It's interesting 3 months ago, I wasn't on the hunt for guitars to play lower tunings... I wound up with two exceptional guitars that just so happen to be designed or excel with lower tunings. The result has been very inspiring and allowed a creative boost that has been a lot of fun. I had always played bigger acoustics in standard or half step. Now I have a whole new world of song writing opened up to me... I really suggest anyone in a creative rut go down a path like this... |
#29
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I think D sounds fine in 25.5" scale most of the time. C can sometimes benefit from longer scale length, but you can also experiment with string gauges. I tend to keep a guitar in dropped D, DADGAD, and standard. I'm in the process of getting a fanned fret for C tuning.
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#30
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Thanks for all the great advice! I was sorely tempted by that Bourgeois Martin Simpson model, that looks like a really nice guitar. And I suppose if I were really serious about lowered tunings, I'd go for a baritone. But in the end I decided to pull the trigger on the custom build, with 26" - 25.4" multiscale. I like the idea of being able to specify any big or small detail that I might care about. Well, here starts about five months of anticipation! Cheers, All!
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