Strap button doesn't go all the way in on Martin

Ralph124C41 · #1 02-26-2021, 12:16 PM

An online friend just opened his new Martin X1-DE (mine is still in the box) and he says, and has a picture, that the bottom strap button doesn't go all the way into the body. It seems to be jutting out a bit and his pic shows it. He said he tried forcing it in but is meeting resistance and is worried about damaging it.

Is this normal? Could it be some humidity problems?

blindboyjimi · #2 02-26-2021, 12:31 PM

It won’t go all the way in. It should be hand tightened while rotating about an 1/8 of a turn. If your friend is a professional player and plays live he can install a locking strap button or a shop can use a 5 degree reamer (same as the bridge pins) and ream the hole slightly and put on a drop of wood glue. The guitar should never be shipped with the end pin in as this invites a tail block crack, so they are purposely hand tightened and easily removed. This is why your guitar usually comes with the end pin inside the case pocket.

Ralph124C41 · #3 02-26-2021, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blindboyjimi

It won’t go all the way in. It should be hand tightened while rotating about an 1/8 of a turn. If your friend is a professional player and plays live he can install a locking strap button or a shop can use a 5 degree reamer (same as the bridge pins) and ream the hole slightly and put on a drop of wood glue. The guitar should never be shipped with the end pin in as this invites a tail block crack, so they are purposely hand tightened and easily removed. This is why your guitar usually comes with the end pin inside the case pocket.

Thanks. He's not a pro but he owns a lot of guitars (a lot) but nearly all are electrics.

BTW, he said he has gotten it to the point where it seems to be in and won't move so he is just going to enjoy the guitar and deal with that later. I will be opening up my Martin later today as I'm in the middle of a lot of work right now.

Dwight · #4 02-26-2021, 12:47 PM

That's how they come from the factory.

pdx · #5 02-26-2021, 01:12 PM

Sandpaper is your friend.

Realbluesman · #6 02-26-2021, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdx

Sandpaper is your friend.

This...better to sand the peg than to ream the hole. Much less invasive!

pickinray · #7 02-26-2021, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdx

Sandpaper is your friend.

I agree with this. With Martins, it's normal for the end pin to not go in all the way. With my Martins, I have found that best thing to do is sand the end pin in small increments until the end pin sits flush with the guitar. Be careful to take off only enough so the pin fits snugly, but you can insert it without forcing it. I don't like the idea of reaming the end block hole unless it's done by a skilled luthier. I'd rather mess up a $5 plastic end pin than a much more expensive guitar.

dnf777 · #8 02-26-2021, 01:57 PM

Do not ream the end-pin hole, and I would advise strongly against glue.

UncleJesse · #9 02-26-2021, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Realbluesman

This...better to sand the peg than to ream the hole. Much less invasive!

It may be but it's still not correct. Sand the pin all you like you're still inserting a tapered pin into a straight hole. The best fit is when the hole is tapered with a reamer. The only reason Martin stopped doing it was to save money in the manufacturing process. Same with the bridge pins.

JayBee1404 · #10 02-26-2021, 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UncleJesse

It may be but it's still not correct. Sand the pin all you like you're still inserting a tapered pin into a straight hole. The best fit is when the hole is tapered with a reamer. The only reason Martin stopped doing it was to save money in the manufacturing process. Same with the bridge pins.

^^^^^^^^^^^^
What Jesse said +1

charles Tauber · #11 02-26-2021, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dnf777

Do not ream the end-pin hole, and I would advise strongly against glue.

If you know what you are doing and have the right tools, absolutely ream the end pin hole - bridge pin holes too. I know of no other field or application where a tapered pin is used in a straight (non-tapered) hole.

If you are at all concerned about it coming out, apply one small dab of glue on the end pin, sufficient to prevent it from coming out.

If the tapered end pin is inserted in a non-tapered hole, the glue won't do much, since the surfaces of pin and hole don't match, unless one uses a lot of glue, enough to fill the un-mating surfaces. I don't advise that.

beatcomber · #12 02-26-2021, 03:52 PM

The end-pin on my 000-15SM won't go all the way in either, and I'm OK with that. It's totally secure, so I'm not messing with it.

dnf777 · #13 02-26-2021, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

If you know what you are doing and have the right tools, absolutely ream the end pin hole - bridge pin holes too. I know of no other field or application where a tapered pin is used in a straight (non-tapered) hole.

If you are at all concerned about it coming out, apply one small dab of glue on the end pin, sufficient to prevent it from coming out.

If the tapered end pin is inserted in a non-tapered hole, the glue won't do much, since the surfaces of pin and hole don't match, unless one uses a lot of glue, enough to fill the un-mating surfaces. I don't advise that.

I was not aware Martin shipped straight drilled holes. My latest Martins are tapered. But yes, then I would agree. But proper tools and technique are a must to avoid chipping and over reaming. Thanks for the correction.

UncleJesse · #14 02-26-2021, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

If you know what you are doing and have the right tools, absolutely ream the end pin hole - bridge pin holes too. I know of no other field or application where a tapered pin is used in a straight (non-tapered) hole.

If you are at all concerned about it coming out, apply one small dab of glue on the end pin, sufficient to prevent it from coming out.

If the tapered end pin is inserted in a non-tapered hole, the glue won't do much, since the surfaces of pin and hole don't match, unless one uses a lot of glue, enough to fill the un-mating surfaces. I don't advise that.

Charles - I've heard of people using one drop of Titebond. Would Elmer's Glue All be sufficient for this purpose as well?

pickinray · #15 02-26-2021, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UncleJesse

It may be but it's still not correct. Sand the pin all you like you're still inserting a tapered pin into a straight hole. The best fit is when the hole is tapered with a reamer. The only reason Martin stopped doing it was to save money in the manufacturing process. Same with the bridge pins.

This is one area where Taylor has it all over Martin. When you buy a new Taylor, the end pin is properly installed and the bridge pins aren't sticking up. I wonder how much money Martin saves by doing this? Or is it just a matter of tradition, i.e., "this is how we've always done it"?