Strap button doesn't go all the way in on Martin

[JayBee1404]

Originally Posted by pickinray

This is one area where Taylor has it all over Martin. When you buy a new Taylor, the end pin is properly installed and the bridge pins aren't sticking up. I wonder how much money Martin saves by doing this? Or is it just a matter of tradition, i.e., "this is how we've always done it"?

No, I don’t believe it to be ‘a matter of tradition, i.e. this is how we’ve always done it’. I can see no other reason than to save cost - it’s certainly not a case of ‘best practice’.

IIRC, traditionally, Martin used solid unslotted pins in matching-tapered slotted pin-holes. In the ‘40s, they changed to bridge pins and pin-holes which were matched-tapered, but the slot was shared between the hole and the pin (i.e. both had a shallow slot to accommodate the string). In the ‘80s, this practice was abandoned in favour of straight-drilled, non-slotted holes and tapered, slotted pins. They do seem to be seating the pins lower nowadays, but the holes are still straight-drilled, IIRC.

There’s no doubt that it was a cost-saving exercise, and that’s a shame. And you’re right, Taylor, Collings, and virtually every other high-end builder, have the drop on Martin on this issue.

Since 2000, I’ve owned five brand-new Martins, all came with straight-drilled holes and tapered, slotted, high-sitting, wobbly, cheap, nasty-plastic pins. I reamed and slotted the pin holes and installed properly-seated, solid unslotted, bone, ebony, or AA pins on all but the first one, which I only kept for a short while.

[Colt45]

Bought a brand new D-42 recently, same issue with endpin. I never put a strap on it though. Beautiful tone!

[phcorrigan]

Originally Posted by UncleJesse

Charles - I've heard of people using one drop of Titebond. Would Elmer's Glue All be sufficient for this purpose as well?

Yes, they are pretty much equivalent for this purpose. From some source on the web:

"White glue and yellow glue have about equivalent bonds after they have cured. White glue remains just a bit more elastic than yellow after curing. Yellow glue sets up faster and resists moisture better than white glue."

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by phcorrigan

Yes, they are pretty much equivalent for this purpose. From some source on the web:

"White glue and yellow glue have about equivalent bonds after they have cured. White glue remains just a bit more elastic than yellow after curing. Yellow glue sets up faster and resists moisture better than white glue."

I've not used Elmer's Glue All. Looking at their website, they don't provide much information on the glue but that it is intended for use with arts and crafts. They don't state what type/family of glue it is. I don't know if it is "white" (polyvinyl acetate) glue or not. The Material Safety Data Sheet doesn't provide any insight either.

Regardless, nearly any type of wood or craft glue would work in this application. Only a small drop is required. By using a small drop of glue on close mating surfaces, the adhesion can fairly easily be broken by shearing (twisting the end pin, in this case). I wouldn't recommend using an expanding urethane glue - actually, on much of anything instrument-related, though a few do.

[SpruceTop]

Originally Posted by Ralph124C41

An online friend just opened his new Martin X1-DE (mine is still in the box) and he says, and has a picture, that the bottom strap button doesn't go all the way into the body. It seems to be jutting out a bit and his pic shows it. He said he tried forcing it in but is meeting resistance and is worried about damaging it.

Is this normal? Could it be some humidity problems?

Response deleted due to misunderstanding.

[JayBee1404]

Originally Posted by SpruceTop

Usually, there'll be a fuzzy-batten-like washer between the strap button and neck heel.

The OP is talking about the end-pin at the butt-end of the guitar, not a heel strap-button.