Slotting a bridge

[Wooly]

I have been reading the advantages of having a slotted bridge with unslotted pins. I have been thinking of slotting the bridge on one of my lesser guitars and then turning the pin around so the slot is at the back. If successful, I would try it on my other ones.

Is this advisable and any pointers or tips on how to do it? I thought maybe with needle files? I've done a forum search but not really finding anything.

[JonWint]

Keep searching. Tons of video, text, etc.

https://www.bing.com/search?q=slotti...a0f132038ce58f

[redir]

The important thing to note is that the goal of slotting is to create an anchor for the ball end of the string so you don't need to to make the key hole slot any deeper then necessary and of course not less. Ramping is different but often times done when slotting. I like to think of it as the slot is deep enough so that the ball barely touches the pin. In theory you should be able to remove the pin when the guitar is fully strung up.

I've heard it mentioned that it's a better idea to rotate your slotted pins one quarter turn so that there is solid pin wood on the front and back and the slots are on the more neutral sides. Or just get unslotted pins

I like to use a jig saw blade mounted in a handle followed by before files to clean it up. Some even use a jig saw to slot! ��

[Wooly]

Originally Posted by redir

The important thing to note is that the goal of slotting is to create an anchor for the ball end of the string so you don't need to to make the key hole slot any deeper then necessary and of course not less. Ramping is different but often times done when slotting. I like to think of it as the slot is deep enough so that the ball barely touches the pin. In theory you should be able to remove the pin when the guitar is fully strung up.

I've heard it mentioned that it's a better idea to rotate your slotted pins one quarter turn so that there is solid pin wood on the front and back and the slots are on the more neutral sides. Or just get unslotted pins

I like to use a jig saw blade mounted in a handle followed by before files to clean it up. Some even use a jig saw to slot! ��

Thanks Redir. That helps

[Peter Wilcox]

I use an unmounted coping saw blade. I rotate it a little in the slot for the larger wound strings. Though the slot is wider than the smaller string gauges, it's certainly narrower than pin slots. I don't think the slot width is very important - as long as the ball end can snug up against the bridge plate it works.

[jwayne]

I did this for the E and A pin holes out of necessity on my Alvarez baritone when I was using a 66 gauge E string. Couldn't do it without the bridge pin (which also got damaged from the thick string) precariously popping out.

]

(edit: as per other folks here, that's a piece of a jigsaw blade glued to a popsickle stick.)

[charles Tauber]

For a few decades, I've used this in an X-Acto knife handle. Clean-up, if needed, with needle files.


https://www.amazon.com/Excel-Blades-...RZ0FHW8Y1707N8

[Wooly]

Originally Posted by redir

The important thing to note is that the goal of slotting is to create an anchor for the ball end of the string so you don't need to to make the key hole slot any deeper then necessary and of course not less. I like to think of it as the slot is deep enough so that the ball barely touches the pin. In theory you should be able to remove the pin when the guitar is fully strung up.

Any guideline to this? Rule of thumb? Would the thicker strings then have a deeper slot than the skinny ones or do you make them all the same depth?

[jonfields45]

Personally I would rather wear out a slot in an easily replaced pin.

[redir]

Originally Posted by Wooly

Any guideline to this? Rule of thumb? Would the thicker strings then have a deeper slot than the skinny ones or do you make them all the same depth?

What I really mean is that I have this mental image in my head as I cut the slots. I don't actually go to that level in measuring but in theory yes, the bass string being thicker would want more space.

Originally Posted by jonfields45

Personally I would rather wear out a slot in an easily replaced pin.

As opposes to what? The most common damage to bridge plates is strings creeping up the slot in badly fitting, damaged, r poorlly fitted pins. Not to mention that a string end securely fitted Is better for tone.

[jonfields45]

Originally Posted by redir

As opposes to what? The most common damage to bridge plates is strings creeping up the slot in badly fitting, damaged, r poorlly fitted pins. Not to mention that a string end securely fitted Is better for tone.

When you cut a slot in a bridge plate you interrupt strong continuous grain. It makes no sense to me to do that and that must be something all the big guitar manufacturers also figured out.

Now I don't doubt a long list of boutique builders disagree, but the vast volume manufacturers seem to have found something they agree on.

[redir]

I never really thought about it like that but I suppose one could argue that drilling a hole in the plate woul interrupt the long grain stiffness and so a pinless bridge would be even better.

I think what manufacturers figured out more was a faster and cheaper way of doing something and that it's good enough. And for the most part it is as long as they are well fit.

I've yet to see any damage from slotting holes but have seen plenty of damage from missfitted slotted pins. Usually it's when cheaper plastic pins wear out and get bent out of shape and allow the ball end to slide up the hole.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by redir

I think what manufacturers figured out more was a faster and cheaper way of doing something and that it's good enough.

And, "some" manufacturers figured out that it was even faster and cheaper to use the same tapered pins but not bother with tapering the holes into which the pins are inserted. They figured out that that is also "good enough".

[jonfields45]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

And, "some" manufacturers figured out that it was even faster and cheaper to use the same tapered pins but not bother with tapering the holes into which the pins are inserted. They figured out that that is also "good enough".

I live near the Martin factory and with business connections here in the Lehigh Valley have had the opportunity to spend time with Dick Boak and Chris Martin. With the tooling they have to make guitars they don't need to compromise design to save money on unassisted hand work. While they understand designing to a price point and product tiering, they are not about doing anything wrong for pennies.

As we assist people to modify their instruments for dubious improvement (most tuning machine replacements come to mind) and chase symptoms of obsession (most minor cosmetic fixes that should only be attempted by an expert), this particular modification seems to not pass the sniff test at production manufacturers.

And to some extent we do a disservice promoting potentially destructive modifications.

[phavriluk]

I can see how a mass manufacturer would avoid slotting bridge pin holes, the extra work steps could multiply the count of operations expended in installing a bridge, and here's six exposures to destructive error at the end of the build process. Tapering pin holes seems to me to be comparatively risk free, but it still is six more operations compared to none.

I think slotting bridge pin holes is within the skill set of the person who built the instrument in the first place, but it does take time and the task needs respect and care. No task is a throwaway, it seems, in lutherie.

Now, I think guitar consumers shouldn't be taking saws and files to their bridges without a well-founded idea that they know what they're doing. I suspect more than one is clueless and is acting on something read in a forum.