Does a low saddle usually mean a neck reset will be needed soon?

[ilikeguitar90]

My 2005 Martin HD28 has low action and holds tune, intonates well, etc but I noticed the saddle is very low. I don't think it's possible to even adjust the treble side saddle any lower. I got this guitar used recently from GC and really love it but am kind of worried it will need a costly neck reset in 5-10 years (which I have read are usually bundled with more work as well making these procedures close to $1000). For a used guitar in the $1500 range an additional $1000 of work is a lot of dough..

https://imgur.com/a/YiwTmMx

Sorry for the poor image but I took this to show a friend my new guitar and not particularly the saddle height. I'll take a better specific picture of the saddle height tonight.

Do you think this guitar might need a neck reset if the action gets higher in 5-10 years? I really like it and do not want to return it but I paid about average used price for it, I'm thinking needing a neck reset in 5-10 years might make it a poor purchase regardless of how good the guitar is and to maybe reconsider keeping it. However if the low saddle doesn't necessarily mean impending neck reset then I am a happy camper and will gladly hold onto it.

Thanks

[Earl49]

Without better pictures of the bridge from the side and actual measurements of the string height at the 12th fret, we can only speculate. The guitar is a dozen years old already, so it may have already moved as much as it is likely to and remain stable for years to come. Or it may shift neck angle sooner and require a neck reset.

FWIW, I've had to do neck resets on two of the four Martin guitars that I've owned, both within the first few years of ownership. In my case, both neck resets were covered under the warranty - eventually after some push back - since I was the original purchaser.

[simpl man]

Need a better picture of the saddle, as you've already noted. Doesn't necessarily mean it'll need a reset if it's stable & action is not getting higher.

A couple other measurements you might check before deciding, but you'll need a long straightedge:

1) You can measure any belly in the top by placing the straightedge across the lower bout, behind the bridge, and noting the space between the straightedge & the edge of the top on both sides.

2) Place the straightedge along the length of the fingerboard, and see where it hits the front of the bridge.

These will help determine the overall condition of the guitar's body & neck's geometry.

[ilikeguitar90]

Hey all, here are some better pictures of the action and saddle:

https://imgur.com/a/KPdctG3

Used a quarter at the 12th fret to show the height of the action.

What do you guys think?

[simpl man]

Saddle is too low. I would expect the action at the 12th fret to be lower than it is with such little saddle showing.

Without observing the other measurements that I noted earlier, I'd venture a guess that the neck angle is off and will need to be reset sooner than later.

You might point this out to the seller and be able to negotiate a better price based on the cost of repairs needed, or you may want to pass on that guitar.

Hope this helps.

[ilikeguitar90]

Originally Posted by simpl man

Saddle is too low. I would expect the action at the 12th fret to be lower than it is with such little saddle showing.

Without observing the other measurements that I noted earlier, I'd venture a guess that the neck angle is off and will need to be reset sooner than later.

You might point this out to the seller and be able to negotiate a better price based on the cost of repairs needed, or you may want to pass on that guitar.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the advice, that's what I was afraid of. I like the tone and playability of the guitar a lot but not sure if it is worth keeping around to drop another $750-$1000 in the near future on a neck reset if it comes down to it. That's getting pretty close to a brand new HD28 and the 2018 HD28 besides being brand new has the updated forward shifted bracing that the older ones (like mine) do not. I got mine used from GC and have had it for a couple weeks now so I still have a few weeks to return it if desired (thank goodness for their 45 day return policy). They have a used newer Martin D-15M there for about 2/3rds the price of this one, maybe I will seriously check that one out and see if it speaks to me...

Thanks again

[mirwa]

You will likely need a neck reset in the near future, with a shallow saddle and that height at the 12th.

Don’t let a neck reset out you off, a great Sounding Guitar is great sounding guitar, a neck reset is 250-350 dollars down the track.

Steve

[Mbroady]

Looks like a neck reset is imminent. I thought the return policy was 30 days, not 45.

Edit.....just checked and it is 45 days.

[jpmist]

One thing that I don't think was mentioned was that the bridge could be shaved down to give room for the saddle to be filed down more if needed. That removes mass from the top so it might alter it's tone so there's that. . .

[ilikeguitar90]

Well thanks for all the advice guys, I went to my local GC after work and was there for a couple hours trying out everything that interested me. Off the top of my head there was a new Gibson J-45, a new Gibson J-15, a new Taylor 314CE, a used Martin D-15M, a new Martin 000-15M, and a new Martin MMV. Surprisingly my favorite of the bunch was the Martin MMV, however I still felt that none of them compared to the worn in feel and full mellow woodiness of my HD28 at home. I went home and played my HD28 again and it was confirmed, the HD28 is my clear favorite and head and shoulders above anything I played today to my ears.

I think I am going to hold onto my HD28 and get the bridge shaved at first, and then go full neck reset/refret when it must be done. I am already in the process of selling off several cheaper guitars that will likely not get any play time with the HD28 around in order to reduce the blow of some costly repairs (I am expecting something around $750-$1000 for the neck reset and refret along with the new saddle, nut, and bridge).

I will admit it kind of irks that I will end up paying several hundred dollars more than a typical used mint condition HD28 would cost by going this route (and mine has clearly been a gigging guitar, it has a lot of natural nicks and scratches), but at the end of the day I think this is the perfect guitar for me and in that case it will be worth it in the long run.

Thanks again for the replies

[Pura Vida]

I realize you appreciate the sound on this HD28, but there are so many used guitars out there. Surely, you could find something comparable for the same purchase price and without all the hassles of a neck reset, although you might need to look beyond your local GC to find it.

[John Arnold]

The important thing is that you like the sound and playability now. It could need a reset soon, or 20 years from now. A lot has to do with the way you treat it. If you keep it away from heat, I suspect you will be fine.
I would not shave the bridge unless it is thicker than usual. The standard Martin bridge is 11/32" thick (0.443"), but the range is 5/16" (0.312) to 0.400". If you need to increase the break angle on the treble strings, you can do that by cutting ramped slots on those strings. If that is done, the slots can be filled if/when the neck is reset later. It's much easier (and cheaper) than replacing the bridge.

[HHP]

Several years ago, I bought a Lowden. The action was very low and so was the saddle. It was a good deal so I bought it and resigned myself to its needing a reset in the near future. It's still exactly the same as when I got it, plays great and sounds like it should.Neck angle seems fine and stable. I wonder if it might sound even better after a reset and with a higher saddle but it sounds good enough now that I don't want to risk it.

[simpl man]

I would not recommend shaving the bridge. It'll only cost you more in the long run.

If you like the guitar, play it the way it is until you're ready to have the neck reset. You don't necessarily have to re-fret or replace the nut either. That all depends on condition at the time of the reset.

[DCCougar]

Originally Posted by simpl man

I would not recommend shaving the bridge. It'll only cost you more in the long run.....

I agree. But the guitar has next to no break angle. It's surprising the OP rates the sound better than a new J-15, which are pretty sonic guits.

One alternative, especially better than shaving the bridge, is to ramp the pin hole slots. That is, have it done. This brings back some break angle and forestalls a neck reset. It's a fairly inexpensive fix.