#16
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I use Minwax Wipe On Poly for necks. Like Tru Oil, it takes many coats but it's much more durable, looks just as good and has a similar tactile quality.
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#17
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Thanks to all for your responses. As it happened, I found two bottles of Tru-Oil in my supply cabinet, one partially used. I tested that and found it still good, so I'll use it up. When it's gone, I'll test the other bottle. I'm told that it will keep for a long time as long as it's stored in a cool place.
After that, I'll switch to the OSMO PolyX that Rudy uses. It sounds perfect for necks and solid-body guitars, but I'm not so sure about acoustic bodies, since it might retain a flexibility that could damp the tone.
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Yamaha FG-411-12 String Oscar Teller 7119 classical (built in 1967) and a bunch of guitars and mandolins I've made ... OM, OO, acoustic bass, cittern, octave mandolin, mandola, etc. ... some of which I've kept. |
#18
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Quote:
When I use open pored woods I actually prefer an unfilled surface, but that's just me. Osmo "gloss" would probably look fine on a wood such as maple or cherry. |
#19
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Here’s a good video that show the sheen level of OSMO gloss. It’s lovely, but it’s not the same level of reflection of gloss finishes from nitro or varnish.
Skip to 4:50 if you just want to see the sheen of the completed finish. https://youtu.be/duxKcjaidf8 |
#20
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Quote:
Last edited by Fathand; 05-07-2022 at 12:53 PM. |
#21
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Unfortunately, I think not. OSMO needs to get into the wood. Based on my somewhat limited experience, additional coats don't build like surface finishes do.
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#22
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I've had good experience with Wipe-on Polyurethane for necks. Easy to do indoors and goes on thin like tru oil. I've only used the Minwax version, but Stewmac has their own product now as well.
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Bryan |