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#1
11-19-2019, 08:46 PM
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Buzzing on 2nd and 3rd fret
I just got a new guitar a Yamaha LL16R and it plays great. But when I capo on the 2nd and 3rd frets and finger pick it, I get some buzzing on the A string. Does any one have any idea why it would do this? Appreciate some advice on how to fix it.
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Eastman E10ss Eastman E20D-tc 
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#2
11-19-2019, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Another possibility is that your capo's radius profile doesn't match the profile of the Yamaha fretboard. Or you could have a fret or two that need leveled. But my money is on the neck relief.
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As my username suggests, huge fan of Yamaha products. Own many acoustic-electric models from 2009-present and a couple electric. Lots of PA too.
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#3
11-20-2019, 12:15 AM
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Thanks Yamaha guy for the info. I tried the truss rod adjustment but it didn't help. Tried different capos too. I think it might be the frets. I'm going to take it to my guitar guy and see if he can fix it.
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Eastman E10ss Eastman E20D-tc
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#5
11-20-2019, 05:15 AM
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A setup for a guitar typically is about $60-80. They get the action right by looking at three things...
1) neck angle/relief... this gets adjusted with the truss rod. Most folks like it very close to flat, with just a little concavity... 2) saddle height. This gets adjusted via saddle height. 3) nut slot height. This typically is the last things to check and it affects mostly the action low on the neck. I’ve had guitars where the action could be adjusted with just a little tweak of the truss rod, but more often than not that’s where a guitars problems start... with peeps thinking they adjust the action by messing with that bow. I have a guitar getting worked on now by a professional. The prior owner shaved the saddle too low (action was buzzing at the low frets) and too high at the higher frets. He compensated for the saddle shaving by cranking the truss rod. It was not necessarily intuitive, but the guitar needed the neck to be flatter, initially causing even lower action and buzzing. It needed the truss rod adjusted back to near flat, little relief. And it also needs a new proper Intonated custom bone saddle that’s higher than the old one. I’m willing to bet your guitar needs the neck less concave and more flat AND it needs the saddle shimmed.
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#6
11-20-2019, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
A "setup" can include different things depending upon who is doing it. Usually, it involves checking relief, nut height, saddle height and can include adjusting the saddle for intonation. As part of assessing what work is required, prior to performing any work, a competent repair person will examine the instrument. One of the things he or she will examine is the neck angle - either with formal measurements or by eye. The neck angle is not, and cannot, be adjusted with the truss rod. Addressing a poor neck angle, generally, is beyond a "setup" - neck relief, nut and saddle heights. Interim remedies for a poor neck angle, such as slotting and ramping pin holes, shaving the bridge, etc. would be beyond the scope of a typical "setup", though could be performed at the same time as the setup. Lowering the saddle, to offset a changing neck angle, is common and would fall under the work performed during a "setup". The cost of a setup can range from $50 to $150, or more, depending upon who is doing the work and their geographical location as well as what work he or she includes in the term "setup". Last edited by charles Tauber; 11-20-2019 at 10:38 AM.
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#7
11-20-2019, 10:56 AM
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A buzz that is limited to one string may be caused by a bad string.
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