Drilling/Reaming an End-Pin Jack Hole?

[TaylorMade110]

Originally Posted by brockgl

The thing that amazes me is how many different responses there have been with so many right and wrong ways. This seems to be a very debated subject, and it's only drilling a hole in a piece of wood (or in my case making an existing hole bigger).

Exactly. It was responses like the ones in this thread that had me almost too scared to just freaking drill a hole, or as in your case (and mine) make an existing hole bigger. Thats why I said screw it. I taped the area, took my 1/2" bit, lined it up with the existing hole, made sure the guitar was braced with my free hand, and drilled the hole. Took less than 30 seconds. Ended up not being scary at all.

I understand all the precaution. My Taylor is my baby. But really, forget all the specialized tools. I am living proof. Just tape and drill. You will be just fine.

[Mike_A]

+1 with the spade bit tool! although many think that this tool is to risky to do the job...i drilled my guitar with a 1/2 (12mm actually) spade bit with no problems at all.

i set my drill to the lowest speed possible. put some tape on the area where i would drill.

the spade bit centers itself and doesnt seem to pull the wood. my guitar has a satin finish so i dont know if that made it more unlikely to chip. its like it just scraped off when i was drilling.

it helped my confidence that i had a broken old guitar to practice on before trying it out on my acoustic, an ibanez artwood. after the experience, i think i am confident that this tool can be used on a highend guitar, just be careful of course.

Originally Posted by PWoolson

This is the right tool for this job:

1/2" spade bit. Probably $3.79 at any hardware store.
Use the inner drill spade as a pilot and the outer spades to ream the hole. There are two advantages to this bit: 1) the points on the outer spades score the hole before the spades actually drill it. and 2) it doesn't pull material toward you so it won't want to lift the fibers of the hole (see photo of tearout above) It wouldn't hurt to put some tape on area first just in case it gets away from you a little.
Slow and steady wins the race.

[chitz]

Originally Posted by jackstrat

1. Drill a 1/4" diameter hole with a sharp brad point bit.

2. Enlarge the hole to 1/2" using a sharp standard drill bit.

Period, end of story.

Work carefully, and you should have no problem.

Good advice. This works every time!

[cheer tunes]

Hi, I took my new D18 to my local shop and asked them to drill out the end pin so that I could install a pick up. When I feed the input jack out of the guitar it does not stick out far enough for me to use all of the suggested screws and washers and there is not enough thread on the jack cover where you attach the strap. Is there a chance the hole was not drilled out correctly? The tech used the bit shows below. I'm trying to install an LR Baggs M80. Thanks for your input.

[cheer tunes]

My bad, upon further inspection I was able to increase the about of threaded jack buy further unscrewing the interior section of the jack.

[Mandobart]

I use brad point bits and always tape the location with blue painters masking tape before drilling, is there is no pre-existing end pin hole. When there already is a hole, but it's too small I use a hand reamer.

[Mandobart]

Originally Posted by brockgl

The thing that amazes me is how many different responses there have been with so many right and wrong ways. This seems to be a very debated subject, and it's only drilling a hole in a piece of wood (or in my case making an existing hole bigger).

No. Drilling holes in joists and studs to run plumbing and wires is "only drilling a hole in a piece of wood." Drilling a hole in a finished instrument where you care about fit and finish is different (to me). I don't want to scratch, shred or splinter the finish. I don't want to blow out the block on the inside. People can do whatever they want to their instruments, but if you come here asking for advice some of it will come from guys like me who have done it several times and want to save you some trouble.

[Sagebrush Tom]

If you buy an Eastman acoustic they already come drilled from the factory

[varmonter]

Ive always used the reamer shown in post 34.
Never had any issues. slow and steady. dont
force it keep it level.

[SpruceTop]

Then again, I bought, and have used the Stewart-MacDonald End-Pin Jack Reamer on about ten installations with no negative results. My advice is if you're going to play the game, step up to the plate and swing with all your might, instead of cheaping out and getting less than desired results, even if it costs you $83 (cost me $69 when I bought it).

[1Charlie]

I am very comfortable with a drill. However, having screwed up one end pin enlargement, that is all it takes to convince me to take it my luthier and spend the $25.

If you must do it yourself, learn from my mistake:

I used a standard 1/2” bit. All was well until I was deep into the hole and the bit clogged and caught, causing the drill to try to spin out of my hand and marring the perfect hole I had drilled up to that point.

If I were to do it over again, I would drill 1/2” deep, pull the bit out, clear the hole and bit of waste wood, reinsert, drill another 1/2”, etc, until the hole extended all the way through the end block. Slowly, and with minimal pressure applied.

Fortunately, the guitar I marred was not of great value.

[BT55]

Originally Posted by jackstrat

As a long time woodworker I would never use a spade bit on a guitar. Never. For one, it will blow out like crazy on the inside of the guitar.



Also, what good is the reamer if the endblock in the guitar is more than a 1/4" thick? The Stew-Mac reamer will work because it has 1/2" diameter flat. That will work as long as the endblock is thinner than the reamer's flat diameter.



I have drilled for endpin jacks and here is my method:



1. Drill a 1/4" diameter hole with a sharp brad point bit.



2. Enlarge the hole to 1/2" using a sharp standard drill bit.



Period, end of story.



Work carefully, and you should have no problem.



Also, here is a trick for feeding the endpin jack assembly through the hole. Insert a guitar cable that will mate with the endpin jack through the hole into the guitar body. Connect the endpin jack to the cable and pull the cable back through the hole. Voila! Done. Simple.



jack

Totally agree. Stepped bits do not have enough depth to properly drill end blocks. I have them but would never drill a guitar with one. I tape the end and use smaller to larger bits to make a the hole. I’ve never had a problem using this method.

[rstanl2]

Get a 1/2” tapered reamer on Amazon, not much $$ One little mistake, will make you sick..it’s worth a few bucks to not have that. Enjoy 😊

[Rudy4]

The ONLY method I will use is to drill with a Forstner bit.

If it's an un-drilled body then I tape over where the hole will be and drill the new hole.

If there's already ANY hole, including a screw hole for strap button, or anything else where a larger hole was drilled, I FIRST glue in a short section of dowel or wood plug. THEN tape is applied and the new hole is drilled with the Forstner bit.

If you care to take your chances then drill it any way you please.

[bnjp]

I have a 1/2" unibit and have used too many times to count. I've never damaged the finish and it always makes a clean hole. You have to leave it out of the chuck a little so it'll drill all the way through the tail block.

Note that LR Baggs says 1/2" and Fishman says 15/32" (you can use a 12mm unibit, but I've never had an issue drilling them all 1/2")