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#1
01-11-2021, 10:27 AM
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Humidity crack, now to tight for glue.
My 7th acoustic build has just developed a low humidity crack in the European Spruce top. I intended to glue and cleat it but since hydrating the guitar, over the past few days, the crack has close up so tight I can’t see a way of getting glue into it.
Question, would you just cleat it without gluing the crack or dry the guitar out again just enough to open the crack to get some glue into it and then cleat it? 
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#2
01-11-2021, 10:36 AM
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Find yourself a plastic bottle with a slotted tip. Load it up with glue. You should be able to force the glue through the crack. You will know it worked if you see glue coming out of the back side of the top. It does not always work but its worth a shot.
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#3
01-11-2021, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Watch the first minute or so of his video: Last edited by Guest 33123; 01-11-2021 at 11:06 AM.
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#4
01-11-2021, 11:07 AM
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Some Techs use a small suction cup to force glue in the crack.
Run a bead of glue along the crack and then use the suction cup to force the glue into the crack. Now use a strap or clamp to pull the sides of the guitar together and let the glue dry.
__________________
Happiness Is A New Set Of Strings L-20A
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#5
01-11-2021, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
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#6
01-11-2021, 01:34 PM
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Thanks for help gents, this crack is tight, but I think I’ve got a plan now. I’m liking the sound of bead of water and the suction cup to help pull the glue in, I’ve got really good pump suction cup that should do the trick. I’ve also ordered a couple of decent rare Earth magnets that I’ll use to position and hold the cleats - we’ll see how it goes ��
Last edited by Kerbie; 01-12-2021 at 02:07 AM. Reason: Please refrain from profanity
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#7
01-11-2021, 05:05 PM
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I would actually worry about thinning or contaminating the glue with too much water. Watery glue likely won't be as strong, but I'm not an expert. Perhaps you would get a more authoritative response if this thread were moved to Build & Repair. Just ask a moderator to move it. Click on the red triangle on the right edge of the blue bar after the post number.
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#9
01-11-2021, 06:51 PM
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> I intended to glue and cleat it but since hydrating the guitar, over the past few days,
There are plenty of unknowns here, but seeing what your wood wants to do in an un-artificially hydrated state would be a good thing to look at. It cracked for a reason..
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#12
01-12-2021, 10:03 AM
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Nitro lacquer, same I’ve used for 30 years with an issue. I’m leaning towards the possibility of a weak soundboard and rapid dehydration, but I’m only guessing. I’m about to glue and clear it, I’ll see how it holds up after that.
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#13
01-13-2021, 06:01 PM
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Being nitro and a soundboard, I would use hide glue, as hide glue dries clear, if it was a poly finish i would have considered ca glue
__________________
Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE
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#14
01-28-2021, 04:55 PM
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Suction Cup to the rescue.
Quote:
I believe I first saw Jerry Rosa of Rosa String Works, use this crack repair technique on the YouTubes, a number of years ago. He said it was an old violin makers repair trick. I keep three different sizes in my guitar tool chest and use them often.
__________________
Leonard 1918 Gibson L-1 1928 Gibson L-4 (Blond w/Ebony Fret-board) 1930's Kalamazoo KG-32 1930's Gretsch F-50 1934 Gibson L-7 1934 Gibson L-50 (KG-11/14 Body Shape) 1935 Gibson L-50 (Flat-back) 1935 Gibson L-30 (Flat-back) 1942 Gibson L-50 (WWII Banner Head) 1948 Gibson L-50 1949 Epiphone Blackstone "a sharp mind cuts cleaner than a sharp tool"
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