When Buying Used

[sprucetophere]

This may be a bit off topic, but I’m posting here rather than the general forum) because I would appreciate informed and educated opinions, and what better way to do that and than to ask a builder.

I’m considering a sizable investment in a used Santa Cruz. While I think I’m reasonably astute in looking for a lifting bridge, bulging belly, separated binding, etc., I’m much less confident in my ability to determine the need for a neck reset (not necessarily an immediate need for a reset, but also considering the need for a reset in the near future).

Is my assumption correct that currently acceptable action is only minimally helpful in that it’s possible that The truss rod has been fully adjusted so that needed change cannot be gained in that manner? And therefore a neck reset could be the next required step in gaining sufficient change?

I’d much appreciate an education as to what I should be looking for - specifically with neck reset issues, but also anything else but do you think typical buyers overlook.

A separate, but possibly related question is what reasons other than to lower action would one shave a saddle?

Thanks much!

Robert

[tadol]

There’s a lot of info out there about how to check action, and what the truss rod is for, etc - but I think that what your asking is how to evaluate the setup and how to tell if there is imminent or immediate need for a neck reset.

I think I’d recommend that you find a good luthier who can help evaluate it for you, and with you. You can explain to them what you like or dislike, and they can tell you whether they feel the guitar can be adjusted to your liking, and whether it seems a neck reset is due in it’s future. See if there is a Santa Cruz dealer near you - there’s a list of dealers on their website - or call and see if they have a recommendation of a luthier or tech near you -

But I’d also say, don’t be afraid of a reset - it’s not the end of the world. I have a wonderful Santa Cruz 12 string that should have a neck reset based on a number of criteria, but it plays great, and has for quite a few years since I got it. If I wanted the action any lower, then I’d need to shave the bridge (absolutely not recommended) or have the reset done - but the action is great, and has stayed stable for many years. Someday I may get it reset - someday - maybe -

[rick-slo]

current playability

current string height (at the 12th fret especially)

current neck relief when fretting at 1st and twelfth frets

how much the height of the saddle is exposed above the bridge
so you know how much you can lower the saddle if that is needed

sighting down the neck to look for any twists

or of course the opinion of a good tech

[PaulVA]

To mention three things you asked about: Truss rod adjustment. It is not really used to adjust the action, it's used to control the curvature of the neck, and most players like there to be just a minute amount of relief -maybe .005 inches, as a flatter neck makes for easier playing. It is true that if the truss rod has been adjusted to add more relief than needed, then reducing the relief/neck curvature will lower the action at the 12th fret. Secondly how to assess the need for a neck reset. Very simply, if there is not enough bridge saddle height remaining to allow lowering to get your desired 12th fret action, then you need a reset. A very low saddle and a higher than desired action can tell you a reset is not far off. Thirdly, you asked about any other reason for shaving a saddle. One other reason may be to take a little off the top of a saddle to clean up grooves made by string pressure.

[redir]

IF there is barely any saddle showing above the bridge wood and the action is high then you most likely need a neck reset barring some other internal conditions that could be causing it. It's always good to be able to inspect the inside of a used gutiar too.

[cliff_the_stiff]

You are looking at a Santa Cruz, which if I am not mistaken is a bolt on neck.

[M_Piddly]

Originally Posted by cliff_the_stiff

You are looking at a Santa Cruz, which if I am not mistaken is a bolt on neck.

"Dovetail Joint:

Sonically Superior to a Bolt-On Neck or We Wouldn’t Take the Time to Do It.

The dovetail jointed neck allows us a considerable degree of control over the presence of the guitar. The tonal advantage of the dovetail is not a matter of opinion; it is supported by acoustic physics. The dovetail joint is a crucial element in voicing and tuning our guitars to be extremely responsive and powerful to the audience. The simplicity of our design facilitates undetectable removal for neck angle resetting or replacement due to trauma. Our dovetail design is the proven product of generations of master violin luthier"

from their website....

[redir]

Yup SCGC are steeped in the tradition of steel string guitar building. You can tell by the amount of BS they put into how great their guitars sound solely on the neck joint they use...LOL. I am being sarcastic of course but if they put half the energy into coming up for the reasons why they make such great guitars, because they do, into voicing the top or something like that it would have much more cred than this age old argument that was pretty much settled in the 90's.

[gfirob]

Just make sure the return policy is clear and take he guitar to a good repairman to check it over.