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Using Belt Sander to Reduce Saddle
I'm thinking of getting my own belt sander to use for reducing the bridge saddles on a couple of guitars. I don't currently own one but they ones that can be mounted upside down on a workbench to use for this type of thing.
My question: Is it best to have one with variable speeds in order to best sand down a saddle or would one with a constant speed be sufficient? I ask because maybe a sander that goes full speed might not be the best for sanding down a bone saddle. Here is one such sander that does not have variable speeds: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...SWDAB89Z&psc=1 Another one with variable speed: https://www.amazon.com/3×21-Inch-Woo...ae8f9840&psc=1 The variable speed one is $74, the non-variable one is like $40 with 20% off coupon applied.
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#2
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I would say speed is not as important as the grit of the belt. I would not go coarser than 150 or 220. One concern would be the flatness of the platten on the sander. The bottom of the saddle should be dead flat and square for good contact. Have some kind of jig set up for hold the saddle while you sand it.
Also be prepared for the sound, those sanders are likely to require hearing protection.
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#3
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It can be done, but at your own peril. I like having multiple use tools. Not much you can do on a guitar with an inexpensive belt sander. I use the StewMac nut and saddle vice as a holder. It is 90 degrees on all sides so it sits flat to the table on my inexpensive disk sander. Quick, safe and accurate. Save your fingertips.
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BradHall _____________________ |
#4
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Quote:
If you are not experienced at using one there's a definite learning curve. As far as the top contour of a saddle goes it will get quickly up to a pencil line, close enough for you to then do the hand work. Under no circumstance would you depend on a belt sander to give you a dead, flat bottom. If you have to take off a bunch of meat from the bottom, make sure you mark a clear line, but before you get to the point of too-far, use a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface (like a table saw, etc) to grind to the exact mark. I draw the saddle against a mill bast-ard file to get where I need. I sight it by eye for square, and it works so well that you can see a reflection on the surface of the bone. There are some wonderful jigs out there for holding the saddle to do this stuff, and it's safer for your fingertips, especially if this is new to you. And has been mentioned: Belt sanders are loud. Best, Howard Emerson
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#5
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So maybe the belt sander is not such a good ideal, especially if one just needs to take of a small portion of saddle as in my case. I just remember hearing that many shops use a belt sander but not having witnessed that process, I really don't know how they use it.
I do have a nice vice on my workbench. I have ample sandpaper, even a flat table saw (although it is stowed away in the back of my garage). Perhaps I will try to do this job manually before giving in to the belt sander. Maybe the belt sander is best for shaping a new saddle, but not for fine tuning one already in use but needs to be cut down a tiny bit.
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Beneteau Concert cutaway Sitka/Maple 2009 Beneteau Baritone Sitka/Walnut 2005 Beneteau Concert cutaway Adi/Honduras Rosewood 2003 Maple Beneteau for sale |
#6
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A table saw idea I've pondered:
The deck has a channel in it, maybe 1/2" deep, running its full length. Channel appears to have sides a right angle to its bottom. Use some double-stick tape to attach sandpaper to the bottom of the channel. Hold the saddle against one side of the channel while sanding. |
#7
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I use a bench mounted belt/disc sander something like this. They can be found used pretty reasonably.
https://www.amazon.ca/King-Canada-KC...s%2C297&sr=8-1 The disc sander is almost as useful as the belt. Admittedly, they reduce your work fast and I have ruined the odd saddle or nut but blanks are cheap. One thing is if you only want to remove a little, leave the sander turned off and manually sand your work on the nice flat, table supported belt. Another trick is to carpet tape or glue small work to a scrap piece of wood to save your fingers or use as a guide to sand a saddle or nut bottom. I also use it for dozens of other jobs. It might be the most used power tool in my shop. |
#8
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#9
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I think a power tool for a saddle is a mistake.
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#10
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I think that the right power tools would be a great help. I make all of my saddles by hand and sometimes I wish I had the "right ones." When I use an especially large saddle blank, it takes hours for me to get everything right. Power tools to get me close would be great. I would still do the final part by hand.
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#11
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We use a 12" disc sander loaded with 120, then we finish sand by hand on a level block with self-adhesive 220 grit. I don't think you can count on the mechanical sanding tools to get the saddle totally flat (needed for undersaddle pickups.
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Bryan |
#12
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I have used a small combination belt-disk sander for this for several years. I finish edges of saddles and nuts (brass or bone) using the small table at 90 degrees to the 6" sanding disk. I normally keep this fitted with a 150 grit disk and that works well. My preferred sander is similar to the one posted by Fathand, but the disk is driven by the same shaft that drives the belt. The sanders that have the disk at the lower position spin WAY TOO FAST!
The table can be angled to form the downward slope of the top of the nut or as a way to rough in the angle for both sides of the saddle that removes the excess material before rounding the top edge. The top edge of the nut or saddle can also easily be contoured to the correct radius that matches the fretboard radius. I probably have photos of the process on my computer. These sanders sell for as little as $100 and can be used for lots of small tasks like this. Doing the saddle bottom edge by hand often results in a less than flat surface. Don't make your work more difficult than it needs to be. Last edited by Rudy4; 10-26-2022 at 06:31 PM. |
#13
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I'm with Cliff - I use a file clamped in a vise to start with, move to various sandpapers for smaller, finer adjustments.
Vernier calipers with a digital readout is your best friend.
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#14
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Other than that your idea is spot on! HE
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#15
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One of the worst injuries I ever had was from a portable belt sander. I was using it upside down to “flatten” a small piece of wood. The sleeve of my shirt got caught and it pulled my hand into the spinning belt. It ground the side of my hand down to the bone in a matter of seconds. It was very painful and a long time healing. BE CAREFUL !
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