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#1
11-25-2014, 05:01 AM
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Zero fret position
I am thinking of replacing the traditional nut in my guitar and installing a zero fret instead + nut for guiding the strings. This means that I would need to glue a piece ebony to the nut and to saw a slot for the zero fret. This is not a problem, I know how to do this, but I have question regarding the position of the slot.
Does the zero fret slot come exactly on the spot where the fretboard and glued piece of ebony connect or a tiny bit closer to the first fret? I saw that "Zero Glide" system used offset frets, where the fret moves a little bit towards the first fret. I am using tall/narrow Jescar gold EVO frets and the zero fret will be the same (or SS with same dimensions). All the frets will be leveled, dressed etc. after the zero fret install. Thanks for comments in advance. 
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#2
11-25-2014, 07:53 AM
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Fret slot for the zero fret should be right at the end of the existing FB. Frets slots are always center to center, including the zero. I personally prefer to install my zero fret after leveling, crowning and polishing the other frets so it is just a few thousandths of an inch higher. This helps offset the wear that happens so seemingly quickly on the zero fret.
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#3
11-25-2014, 10:31 AM
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I do the same as B. Howard but I think I understand what you are saying. IOW your concern is that the apex of the rounded off fret will actually be behind the face of the nut. That's true but I've not seen it to be a problem. When you cut fret slots and get to the very last one where the nut goes you actually cut right through so by that logic the nut is actually a bit closer. Some luthiers actually make the nut a bit closer to give some compensation there.
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#4
11-25-2014, 12:29 PM
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From what I can noodle out from their description, the reason the Zero Glide fret is offset because the fret slot is centered on the recess in the nut, which is actually slightly behind the ideal location of the crown of the fret. If you glued a piece of ebony to the existing fretboard and then cut the slot exactly at that seam, taking off the same amount of wood on both the original wood and the new wood, then you wouldn't need the offset.
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Yamaha FG-411-12 String Oscar Teller 7119 classical (built in 1967) and a bunch of guitars and mandolins I've made ... OM, OO, acoustic bass, cittern, octave mandolin, mandola, etc. ... some of which I've kept.
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