Acoustic guitar with a low action?

[DesertTwang]

I'm confused by the OP's statement of acoustic guitars having higher action than electrics because of the sound quality. In my experience, the reason that acoustics have higher action is because the strings need much more room to vibrate, as opposed to an electric guitar, where the slightest string vibration can be amplified to fill a stadium.

I like the action to be as low as possible on an acoustic, but in my experience, the lower limit is not dictated by sound quality, but simple mechanics: at very low action, the strings will touch the frets as they vibrate, resulting in string buzz.

Once the action has been set just a tad higher where it prevents this from happening, is the limit. Any lower than that limit simply isn't possible on an acoustic. I don't think action has anything to do with the brand or model of an acoustic guitar.

[mr. beaumont]

String height certainly can affect volume, which can influence tone...some folks ears equate volume with tone, too...

[Mike McLenison]

I'm going to politely disagree with a few here. Here's what I've found: A perfectly straight neck with correctly dressed/crowned or pleked frets works and sounds best. It also forces the top to be driven harder. The heavier the string, the less elliptical vibration wobble to cause fret buzz. My nut slots allow each string to clear the first fret by approx. .015" - my saddle height allows the strings to be 1/16" at the 12th fret. One other enhancement I do for my guitars is to file down and crown the frets high up the neck that are not affected by a truss rod adjustment; usually around .007" lower. This allows additional clearance for the last 6 frets or so. Also helps clearance issues that can arise with capo usage way up the neck.

[phcorrigan]

Originally Posted by Kenny202

JNow I have come to understand that acoustic guitars are meant to have a higher action to get the sound quality. I am after a compromise here

I have three guitars--two Martin Dreadnoughts and Gretsch hollow body. All three have about the same reasonably-low action, and all three play well without string rattle or buzzing.

As long as the neck has the proper relief and doesn't need to be reset, you should be able to set the action to your liking.

[Brucebubs]

I like mine about here.
I read that as a little over 2.0mm ... and I'm a firm strummer.
Metric on the left of the ruler - ye olde whatever on the right.

[rstaight]

Depending on the guitar I have used extra light, light and medium light.

[cube_monkey]

I came from "electric world" and i keep .10's on my acoustics, solved alot of action/neck problems and my hands on those low fret barre chords. Its not a big deal for me as when i record the mic is up close. But i am not a true acoustic guitarist like others here. Works for me though. Friend of a friend is a luthier and builds expensive classical guitars, he said .10's will save your neck...well there is a sound tradeoff...but depends on the player and requirement.

[Kenny202]

Ended up getting a Yamaha APX600. Not a purists acoustic guitar but they are a lot better these days acoustically even for a small body acoustic and sound amazing amplified. Action out of the box pretty high 3mm plus but got it down to around 1.8mm at the 12th and lovely to play. Put 10's on it as I usually do. Very happy with it

[AndrewG]

Originally Posted by Steve DeRosa

Here's a little secret all the '50s bop/rockabilly players knew:

If you want to get the action really low - in the range of 1.5-2.0mm (I wouldn't go any lower on a flattop acoustic) - think in terms of heavier strings than what you're used to. A set of 12's or 13's will not only have a smaller envelope of vibration (the amount of "swing" when plucked) but the added mass will impart more energy to the top (with the added benefits of more volume/tone), both of which will allow you to set the bridge saddle lower than with lighter-gauge strings (speaking from personal experience here - until very recently most of my electrics were set up with 12's, my flattop acoustics and electric jazzboxes with 13's, and my acoustic archtops with 14's); FYI those jazz guys were ripping off blazing solos with 13- and 14-gauge sets, a 12-gauge set (such as would have been fitted as OEM to period solid and thin-body instruments) was considered "light," and other than the late Tal Farlow none of them possessed particularly large hands. FWIW I'd find myself a first-rate tech and get a good pro setup job - you'd be surprised at just how easy a well-made guitar can play, and if seasonal humidity is a constant problem you might think about interchangeable "summer" and "winter" saddles (FYI many orchestral string players do this)...

Of course, you could always buy a carbon-fiber Rainsong/Emerald/CA/etc. - totally impervious to temperature/humidity (within reason), and you can never have too many guitars...

Also it's just a matter of practise adapting to heavier gauges. After several years of playing in electric bands and basically ignoring my acoustics, it took a good few weeks to both strengthen my hands and build my callouses, and re-learn acoustic techniques. It can be done but takes a little while. I have always regarded electric and acoustic guitars to be like family relatives who need different approaches in order to get the best out of them. A daft analogy but the best I could dream up!

[AndrewG]

Originally Posted by Kenny202

Ended up getting a Yamaha APX600. Not a purists acoustic guitar but they are a lot better these days acoustically even for a small body acoustic and sound amazing amplified. Action out of the box pretty high 3mm plus but got it down to around 1.8mm at the 12th and lovely to play. Put 10's on it as I usually do. Very happy with it

Good choice. I borrowed a friend's APX500 (a predecessor of the 600) and found it a very decent little guitar, and despite its low cost it was well up to Yamaha's excellent quality standards.

[Jaden]

Originally Posted by cube_monkey

I came from "electric world" and i keep .10's on my acoustics, solved alot of action/neck problems and my hands on those low fret barre chords. Its not a big deal for me as when i record the mic is up close. But i am not a true acoustic guitarist like others here. Works for me though. Friend of a friend is a luthier and builds expensive classical guitars, he said .10's will save your neck...well there is a sound tradeoff...but depends on the player and requirement.

Probably a good idea. It may not be discussed enough but these days with high volume production, kiln dried wood and no cured/aged old growth I won’t even put 12s on a new acoustic guitar but have settled on 11s to save against neck resets (on the Martins).

[Kenny202]

Originally Posted by AndrewG

Good choice. I borrowed a friend's APX500 (a predecessor of the 600) and found it a very decent little guitar, and despite its low cost it was well up to Yamaha's excellent quality standards.

Its very nice. I had a Japanese one years ago, I think they first came out in the 80's. Was a beauty. Great sounding preamp even by todays standards. I have always looked out for another one but there was something wrong with the finish on the early ones and they all seemed to end up the same. Looked like the guitar had a big water stain all over it and impossible to remove. I believe the APX series best selling acoustic guitar of all time. They are great little stage guitars if you are playing all night and don't want to overdo it.