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Old 10-07-2018, 11:55 AM
pagedr pagedr is offline
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Default Replacing adjustable bridge saddle

I recently acquired an old Gibson B-25 that has an original rosewood bridge and saddle. I like the tone it has, but it's a bit quiet so I want to try out a new saddle. Not going to replace the entire bridge but I ordered a direct replacement bone saddle to try out: https://www.philadelphialuthiertools...ustic-guitars/

Anyway, I'm just wondering how difficult this saddle swap would be. Is it as simple as just unscrewing the rosewood saddle, sanding down the bone a bit, and then screwing it back in? I've never done anything like this but just am curious if it's simple enough that I don't need to take it to a luthier.
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Old 10-07-2018, 08:44 PM
Bax Burgess Bax Burgess is offline
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You could try it with/without the screws. I currently have an Alvarez that sounds very lively with the metal piece - the weight of the screws does have an effect as far as I can discern. I wonder if these adjustable bridge guitars were braced to accommodate the extra weight.

The screws will be useless with the bone saddle.
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Old 10-07-2018, 09:32 PM
John Arnold John Arnold is offline
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The bone saddle should be a direct fit.....the rosewood saddles fit the same as the ceramic ones.
I have made a few of these bone adjustables, but I would not make another for the price of the CNC one.

Note to Philadelphia Luthier Tools and Supplies.....'your' does not mean 'you are'.
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Old 10-07-2018, 10:01 PM
pagedr pagedr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Arnold View Post
The bone saddle should be a direct fit.....the rosewood saddles fit the same as the ceramic ones.
I have made a few of these bone adjustables, but I would not make another for the price of the CNC one.

Note to Philadelphia Luthier Tools and Supplies.....'your' does not mean 'you are'.
Got it, I figured as much. Is it easy enough to do that I don't need to get a luthier involved? I've never messed around with bridges or saddles before, but seems like it should be a pretty straightforward process of just unscrewing the rosewood saddle and screwing the bone one in.
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Old 10-08-2018, 10:59 PM
Bax Burgess Bax Burgess is offline
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Scroll down halfway.

http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/r...ge-replace.php

Now I see the reason for the open ends of the bone replacement, shaped as the shown porcelain saddle. What I've experienced with Japanese adjustable saddles is the contact point between string and top being the wide screw head sitting on the wooden bridge, a washer to protect the wood from the turning screw head.
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Old 10-12-2018, 10:14 AM
pagedr pagedr is offline
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Figured I would post the resolution in case anyone is ever curious in the future. Replacing the rosewood saddle with the new bone one was incredibly easy, and I was able to manage it without any prior experience like this. I unscrewed the rosewood saddle, sanded down the bone saddle until it fit in the slot just right, and screwed it back in, all in the span of about 10 minutes. Sounds much better now so I'm very pleased.
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Old 10-12-2018, 11:07 AM
bausin bausin is offline
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>> Note to Philadelphia Luthier Tools and Supplies.....'your' does not mean 'you are'.

We all make spelling or punctuation mistakes. As careful as I try to be, I've caught mistakes of my own in previous posts. Humbling.
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Old 10-12-2018, 12:10 PM
Edgar Poe Edgar Poe is offline
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I made this insert and it works great. It isn't glued in so it can be restored to original. it's a snug but not tight fit. Made out of ebony.

Ed

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