Safe way to remove dripped unknown glue?

[ChrisN]

I bought a used Recording King (infamous for lifted bridges) that someone re-glued the bridge on. They used too much of an unknown glue that appears sort-of yellowish and that glopped onto the inside of the back below the pin holes.

I may be able to pop one or 2 of the globs off, but a couple are smeared flat and I don't want to scar the wood, or damage to the back's outside poly surface (from excess heat). What's the best way to remove the dried mystery glue?

[JonWint]

If you must, remove it by scraping with a chisel and/or razor blade.

Water might discolor wood, or worse, loosen other glue you don't want disturbed.

Use heat only if you want to deconstruct the guitar.

[Tony Done]

Originally Posted by JonWint

If you must, remove it by scraping with a chisel and/or razor blade.

Water might discolor wood, or worse, loosen other glue you don't want disturbed.

Use heat only if you want to deconstruct the guitar.

I agree. I have something that looks exactly like that in my old Gibson from a similar repair. I'm not bothered, but if I was I would scrape it off with a chisel. A trick I have used to prevent damage to the timber or finish is to use a wide chisel and put a piece of tape over the edge of the blade at each end, so the the middle of the blade stands a little clear of the working surface.

[ChrisN]

Careful chisel, it is. Thanks to you both for the tips.

[John Arnold]

Titebond, most likely. You may be able to pop it off by wedging under it with a chisel or a thin spatula.
When I see the six spots coinciding with the pin holes, I am reminded that there are still some who don't use a block against the bridgeplate when clamping a bridge. The logic escapes me. I have been regluing bridges for well over 40 years (thousands), and I have not glued one where I did not use a caul on the bridgeplate.

[ChrisN]

Originally Posted by John Arnold

Titebond, most likely. You may be able to pop it off by wedging under it with a chisel or a thin spatula.
When I see the six spots coinciding with the pin holes, I am reminded that there are still some who don't use a block against the bridgeplate when clamping a bridge. The logic escapes me. I have been regluing bridges for well over 40 years (thousands), and I have not glued one where I did not use a caul on the bridgeplate.

My first bridge re-glue was a Conn Classical. I cyphered by the seement pond on how it should be done. I meticulously prepped the surface for max adhesion. I made wood cauls for top and bottom, with carved troughs for the braces, and I purchased the elongated C clamps to reach the bridge. It was a fair amount of work for this low-equipment/knowledge rookie. Oh, and I LAID A PAPER TOWEL BELOW THE BRIDGE IN CASE OF A DRIP.

This "repair" looks more like "I glued it back on, then laid a couple of books on it and called it good." I expect I'll be re-gluing this bridge at some point.

[coldfingers]

A little acetone judiciously applied might help remove the "smeared" part.

[phavriluk]

I suspect those drops of dried glue will pop right off with the gentle persuasion of a chisel.

[runamuck]

Originally Posted by coldfingers

A little acetone judiciously applied might help remove the "smeared" part.

Nope, not if it's water based which it almost certainly is.

[Truckjohn]

Or just leave the smeared stuff.... It doesn't hurt anything.
Most likely - scraping it off will leave lighter color spots and could potentially leave gouges. That's a worse problem than a few little glue drips.

[ChrisN]

Originally Posted by Truckjohn

Or just leave the smeared stuff.... It doesn't hurt anything.
Most likely - scraping it off will leave lighter color spots and could potentially leave gouges. That's a worse problem than a few little glue drips.

True. I might scrape the mounds flat, then lightly use fine sandpaper to work on the smears a bit. Just something to take away the "don't forget the hamfisted amateur repair" look that sullies my ownership experience.