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#16
03-15-2015, 10:41 AM
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Just for clarification The neck joint I have used for the past 15 years is Dana's design. I modified it some and I believe he has as well since I worked with him. I deserve no credit in it other than maybe helping spread the design via my building DVD's. It's a solid joint after it settles. It tends to want to shift a little over the first couple months. After that it tends to stabilize. I started leaving the guitar strung up for as long as possible before sending the guitar out. Then I could reset the neck and be confident it would not shift much. If it does it's a 30 minute fix that doesn't disturb the guitar hardly at all.
I'm working on a design that will integrate it even a bit more. Of course it's all design for me at this point since I'm just now starting the process of re-launching my shop after a couple years. Been a tough road for me, but building is in me and I couldn't get away from it even if I wanted to. Which I don't! Here is a picture Dana's design. This might be a bit dated as it is how I remeber it.  I don't use the screws as well as I don't use as many hold down bolts. I run my truss rod through the headstock as well. John Mayes 
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#17
03-15-2015, 11:55 AM
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Capohk,
I use brass cause I can get them in 10 packs at Lee Valley. They're not my preference. I prefer HSS ones, but the minimum order is several hundred $ US, and for whatever reason it never makes it to the top of the list, so brass it is for now. Trevor Gore's joint is the logical extension of the joint as it eliminates the hinge effect by extending the FB tenon into the neck. But for me and how the geometry works, I like the hinge effect, as I want the FB to fall away at the body. With the glued tongue (just barely tacked down around the edges) providing shear strength, this joint seems stable and serviceable, all I need or want.
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#18
03-15-2015, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
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#19
03-15-2015, 04:47 PM
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High strength steel I think...
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#20
03-15-2015, 04:50 PM
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These...
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#21
03-15-2015, 05:56 PM
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these are what I use now:
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#22
03-15-2015, 10:52 PM
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Thanks jls.
Do you know by which manner they are driven? RH LV ones require a threaded rod with a captured nut. The ones I like, (and a good part of why I like them) are hex driven... And I didn't see a price...
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#24
03-16-2015, 11:33 AM
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Hmmm.
Those threads are a little fine for my taste. But hey, if it works, it works...
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#25
03-16-2015, 06:06 PM
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Dunno if they work yet - not applied string tension to the joint. They are currently screwed into the end grain and I'm wondering if it might be wise to insert a vertical dowel as suggested earlier so that they screw into the grain of the dowel cross-ways. Time will tell I guess.
One thing I notice is that you make your heel profile wide rather than tapered - obviously this would help the stability and increase contact surface in lieu of the tenon. I guess I am conducting a methodology into what is the simplest and most effective approach given the restraints of the small shop. I still like this idea and appreciate all the responses here Thanks Matt
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#26
04-06-2015, 04:38 PM
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heel configuration, no tenon
I'm intending to use a 'Halcyon' no-tenon butt-jointed neck on my first scratchbuilt project.
I'm wondering if I'm liable to be my own worst enemy: I like the appearance of the 'Martin' heel as opposed to the 'Gibson' heel that I thought I saw Halcyon use and I'm wondering if there's enough material in such a heel to support threaded inserts without the heel splitting at an insert. Would it be a safer idea to use hangar bolts instead of threaded inserts and thererby be drilling smaller holes in the heel? Is it possible that using a Martin-shaped heel without a tenon is an exercise in disappointment? Any experience/comments/cautions/workarounds I'd be grateful to hear. Thanks very much.
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#28
04-06-2015, 06:34 PM
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I do the simple butt joint as well. I've done 50 guitars this way with no problems at least so far in about 20 years of doing it. I like the M&T method for Selmer's because the heal is so thin that you cannot do inserts. So in that case I use those barrel nuts which is actually a slick idea as they orient themselves perfectly to the required bolt angle.
I've been tempted to start using the M&T joint but the simple minor neck reset on the bolt on is easy enough for a guitar owner to do never mind a tech. I've had to adjust slightly the neck angle on two of my guitars. One could argue it's original bad design but these things happen and it only took 15-20 minutes to get right. As I am opening a new shop now it's given me a lot of time to redesign and retool my thinking and I may end up going with the M&T. IF you allow for a little air space in the back of the tenon then you can do a similar flossing method though a tad bit more difficult to match left and right.
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| Tags |
| neck joint bolt mottola |
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