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  #16  
Old 02-24-2010, 12:20 PM
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Steve Kinnaird Steve Kinnaird is offline
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Bob we can always try.
Usually, the easiest way of proving the point is to start bending, and when it snaps, say: "Yup, that was the hard stuff".

(Still want us to look at it? )

Steve
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  #17  
Old 02-24-2010, 01:50 PM
naccoachbob naccoachbob is offline
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Hey, I'm game.
I knew when I got it that I got all the troubles that come with it. No big loss if it breaks, the price was low enough. And I was prepared to absorb the hit if it came to that anyway.
I'll hopefully put the bridge on my build on Sunday, and string it up Monday. I'm off both Mon and Tue, so maybe I can bring it all with me early next week.
Thanks,
Bob
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  #18  
Old 02-24-2010, 02:15 PM
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What kind of guitar are you going to make with it, Bob? I could see it making a gorgeous OM

Fliss
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  #19  
Old 02-24-2010, 03:10 PM
naccoachbob naccoachbob is offline
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I don't know. I had originally thought Dreadnought since I have a template for that. I have a 2nd template, that may be for OM, but I'm not sure.
Good question though, I had just assumed dreadnought because my first one is that size. The rest of the guitar will be from a kit, like from LMI's kit wizard. I've already selected bindings, purflings, top, and other things from them in the wizard. Was just going to have them put in some of their cheaper sides and back just to get the kit price. They sell OM size kits too.
Any other opinions of guitar size to build?
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  #20  
Old 02-27-2010, 03:26 PM
naccoachbob naccoachbob is offline
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They have arrived. Looks like very, very good wood. I'm happy as a clam.
The sides are 4 15/16" and the backs are 8 3/8". If it becomes a dreadnought, it'll have to be without much trimming of the sides. They're right at tolerance, 1/16 over at the back end, and the back will give me 16 3/4, with plenty of room. Marvelous rippling thru the entire set. It's gonna be a good one if I don't hose it. Just hate to have to wait. There's 2 to get built before doing this one. But it'll give me time and experience so it should be a better build than the first 3.
I'm excited even if it's going to be sitting around a while.
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  #21  
Old 02-28-2010, 03:39 PM
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Bob, welcome to the world of wood acquisition.
Terminal malady....

Steve
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  #22  
Old 02-28-2010, 06:07 PM
naccoachbob naccoachbob is offline
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It's probably going to force me to take some medicines: like buying side benders, blankets, band saws, thickness sanders.
Speaking of which (tools), I have a Delta planer. I've used it in the past, and sometimes it snipes the ends of pieces. Steve, have you used one for backs, sides, or tops? If I'm smart, I can put another piece of scrap behind it of the same thickness and maybe eliminate the snipe. Kinda scary though, one miss and it's scrap too. Not sure how thin it will go either. Perhaps I could trade someone for a sander or band saw, hmmmmmmmmmmmmm.
Dang, wood acquisition is not only terminal, it's killing me in all kinds of ways. It's launching other diseases............tool acquisition syndrome.
Have you seen that killer walnut on Ebay?

Bob
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  #23  
Old 02-28-2010, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naccoachbob View Post
Have you seen that killer walnut on Ebay?

Bob
Don't...tempt me...Frodo!

And NO, I don't have the death wish to run expensive wood through one of those mulching machines. My sander is enough.

Steve
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  #24  
Old 03-06-2010, 03:37 PM
joeybagadonutz joeybagadonutz is offline
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"Don't...tempt me...Frodo!

And NO, I don't have the death wish to run expensive wood through one of those mulching machines. My sander is enough."


Hahaha.

Well I have gotten a horrible case of wood acquisition syndrome, tool acquisition syndrome that resulted from a guitars that I can't afford acquisition syndrome.

In any event I am planning on buying 2" thick slabs of lumber, sawing, re-sawing, planing and thickness sanding.

Are you saying a planer is a waste of money? You can't get below an 1/8" with most of them (not that I would want to) but after re-sawing I would think it would be necessary to get a uniform surface on the wood to avoid burning up the sander. Especially on some Bubinga which is going to be my first wood acquisition.

By the way, my name is Joey and I have enjoyed reading your discussion.
Any advice? thanks.
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  #25  
Old 03-07-2010, 10:35 PM
Zigeuner Zigeuner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naccoachbob View Post
It's probably going to force me to take some medicines: like buying side benders, blankets, band saws, thickness sanders.
Speaking of which (tools), I have a Delta planer. I've used it in the past, and sometimes it snipes the ends of pieces. Steve, have you used one for backs, sides, or tops? If I'm smart, I can put another piece of scrap behind it of the same thickness and maybe eliminate the snipe. Kinda scary though, one miss and it's scrap too. Not sure how thin it will go either. Perhaps I could trade someone for a sander or band saw, hmmmmmmmmmmmmm.
Dang, wood acquisition is not only terminal, it's killing me in all kinds of ways. It's launching other diseases............tool acquisition syndrome.
Have you seen that killer walnut on Ebay?

Bob
Hello,

That is some beautiful wood. I like it as much as EIR or BR.

I'm just getting back into guitar repair on two of my Martins. I'm not a luthier per se but I did build 9 guitars from 1973 to 1977 when I had a music store. I still have two of them.

Regarding your planer, that Delta should work very well. I have a 1930's Parks Plane that I rebuilt in 1971 for guitar work. It's big and very heavy with a floor stand but it does a job.

What I did for my backs, sides and tops was to first resaw them from 2X10's to approximately 3/16". Yes, I know that's wasteful but it was the thinnest I could hold on my 14" Delta bandaw. I would then tape them to 5/8" particle board to hold the flitches when they were being planed.I tried for 2mm on backs, 2.5mm on sides and 3 mm on tops.

I'm curious about your mentioning that the planer "snipes the ends of pieces". I call that a "signature cut"(my term) The so-called "signature cut" or "sniping" would only occur when I had the two bottom table rollers on the Parks set too high. If I took the time to adjust them properly and make sure that the blades were very sharp and clean, there would usually be no problems. Taping them to stiff boards did the trick for me. EDIT: If you could find a large enough sander, they really would be the way to go. I couldn't locate one when I was looking so I went with the planer, which I still have. The belts are rather expensive but perhaps they are worth the difference.

You're right about needing tools. It really takes a lot of stuff.

I did my bending with the wood soaked in a long tray for a few minutes and then I bent it to fit the molds over a piece of 4" aluminum tubing with 1/4" wall heated with a propane barbecue torch inside of the tubing. At 2-2.5mm with enough heat and steam generated by the tubing, it bent very nicely. I had some Brazilian Rosewood at the time and built seven guitars from it that I sold in my store but that was long ago. I also built one from Honduras Mahogany and another from African Mahogany, both of which I kept. Almost 35 years later they are still going strong. I can get some pictures later on.

I kept all of the tools and I'm in the process of doing a neck reset on one of my Martins.

I'm amazed at all of the nice custom work going on around here. I want to see your instrument when it's done. That wood is very choice indeed.

Regards.

Last edited by Zigeuner; 03-07-2010 at 10:41 PM.
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  #26  
Old 03-08-2010, 03:02 PM
naccoachbob naccoachbob is offline
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Zigeuner, thanks for the input. I'm not familiar with the planer you're talking about, but the smaller ones, like the Delta 14 1/2" are notorious for "sniping" wood. It's just a small indentation about 1-2" wide in the wood where the rollers kick it into the blade more than the rest of the wood. I've had success with sliding another piece about 3-6" from the end of my first piece, and sometimes it works, but sometimes...........
Anyway, I'm kinda thinking like Steve said, I don't want to experiment with this set. Plus, there's a minimum thickness that they will plane. I believe about 1/8". This wood will need to go lower than that. Even with them riding piggy-back on another piece of wood, I'm a bit nervous.
I'll get them sanded to thickness. Wish I could afford a wide sander for doing this, but those things are very pricey.
Thanks again,
Bob
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  #27  
Old 03-08-2010, 05:50 PM
Zigeuner Zigeuner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naccoachbob View Post
Zigeuner, thanks for the input. I'm not familiar with the planer you're talking about, but the smaller ones, like the Delta 14 1/2" are notorious for "sniping" wood. It's just a small indentation about 1-2" wide in the wood where the rollers kick it into the blade more than the rest of the wood. I've had success with sliding another piece about 3-6" from the end of my first piece, and sometimes it works, but sometimes...........
Anyway, I'm kinda thinking like Steve said, I don't want to experiment with this set. Plus, there's a minimum thickness that they will plane. I believe about 1/8". This wood will need to go lower than that. Even with them riding piggy-back on another piece of wood, I'm a bit nervous.
I'll get them sanded to thickness. Wish I could afford a wide sander for doing this, but those things are very pricey.
Thanks again,
Bob
That's right. My Parks Plane won't go much below 1/8" either. I got around that limitation by taping the wood sections to particle board. (MDF is good, nowadays).

Sanding is much safer than a planer. If I were going to be building instruments anymore, I would look for a good used one and try to find a deal on the belts.

Good luck.
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  #28  
Old 03-08-2010, 07:34 PM
naccoachbob naccoachbob is offline
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I will. And I do like Delta products!! Guess I'm a fan of Norm Abrams.
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