K&K Pure Mini tips

[SuperB23]

I really like mine plugged into the Baggs Venue DI then straight into the PA system at my church which seats 1100 people. With a good EQ setup and good sound guy I get a really great sound out of K&K Pure Mini pickups in all my guitars!!

I love how they don't detract from the unplugged sound of my guitar at all!

[Rudy4]

Originally Posted by Corndog

It's a matter of getting one's hand in the guitar to actually install it.

It's actually quite simple if you just upload your images to one of the free hosting sites (I use IMGUR) and then copy /paste the image link to your posting.

[phcorrigan]

Originally Posted by Rudy4

It's actually quite simple if you just upload your images to one of the free hosting sites (I use IMGUR) and then copy /paste the image link to your posting.

The trick with Imgur is to right-click the image itself after you upload and save it, copy the image address (NOT the address in the URL bar above), and then paste into the Insert Image link:

[Rudy4]

Originally Posted by Corndog

It's a matter of getting one's hand in the guitar to actually install it.

I have large hands, which can be a blessing, or sometimes a curse.

I can usually reach the bridge plate with a couple of fingers if required. I'd love to see any alternate jig used to install K&K Pure Mini transducers, though. I'm always open to new ideas.

Fine point #1.

A big "Yes!" to adding auxiliary protection in the form of masking tape or even thin cardboard taped to the instrument top where glue might "accidentally" be dripped. Better safe than sorry in this case.

Fine point #2.

Latex or synthetic gloves are a necessity for me. No gel superglue needs a chance to muck up my "baby's bottom" smooth fingers. (No need to experience the abject horror of realizing you've accidentally super-glued your fingers together... )

Fine point #3.

I glue in a short section of dowel where an existing end pin hole is. It doesn't need to be long, 1/4" long is sufficient. I then apply blue low tack painter's masking tape over the entire end pin area and use the glued in dowel to center a 1/2" Forstner bit. Once the bit establishes a hole it no longer needs a center, so the 1/2" hole itself serves as a guide for the bit. The tape is just added insurance against clumsiness until the hole is established.

Yes, a 31/64" bit is fine, but many folks will be buying a single bit for drilling the jack hole and this one is sometimes difficult to locate. A 1/2" Forstner bit is usually available at all the big box stores and is much kinder when the bit exits the inside of the tail block. Common twist drills like the aforementioned 31/64" can be brutal to the exit area of the hole. It that really what you want to subject your baby to? Use the 1/2" Forstner and go SLOW when you get to the other side of the tail block.

The 1/2" hole is slightly oversize, but since many will drill the hole not perfectly 90 degrees to the tail block it allows the jack to center in the hole even if it's a few degrees off kilter. This makes for a more secure installation of the jack with less concern about the nut coming loose from contacting the surfaces slightly askew, which can happen if you're shooting for a really tight hole.

Fine point #4.

Stick in a small mirror and lay it down against the back of the instrument so you can use a flashlight to see what you're doing. It's really pretty easy, and some of us that do this regularly keep a folding mirror made up of two sections that you insert in the sound hole and open up once it's inserted. (Not really a necessity, though...)

Fine point #5.

This one is important. I've personally walked a couple of folks through the "fix" for a non-working pickup after installation.

If you've done a few of these you already know that it's IMPORTANT to set the jack depth so the outer part that serves as the strap button allows the threaded part of the jack to FULLY reach the outer edge of the hole in the button. If it's shy of full depth then the plug can't be inserted fully, and the pickup either will work intermittently or not at all.

I add this because of the number of times I've fielded "the phone call". I stop them before they even complete explaining the symptoms and tell them "I know how you can fix this...".

Fine point #6.

Do yourself a favor and use a 24" length of 1/4" dowel for jack positioning. Shape one end to a truncated cone to insert in the jack to hold it as it is guided into position. You insert the dowel until the cone shaped tip is under the sound hole, stick it in the jack hole, and then easily guide the jack through the drilled hole in the tail block. Using this setup, it's easy to remove the outer nut, push the jack back to the sound hole to adjust the inner nut that you didn't set correctly BEFORE installation to avoid the "Fine point #5" problem!

Fine point #7.

In most cases I use a mirror to look inside and give the output jack a twist so the wire makes a nice loop between the transducers and the output jack. It usually takes anywhere from a half turn to a turn and a half before the wire assumes the correct shape. The idea here is to form the wire into a neat loop so it does not contact the top or rear of the body. If the wire touches it will create sound in the transducers that isn't gonna help your guitar to sound its best.

Fine point #8.

Nine times out of ten a K&K Pure Mini will sound great without using an additional "pre-amp". Try it first, and THEN waste your money!

I got more, but this is most likely TMI for the average casual forum reader...

[Corndog]

Anyway. As one can see, the arm mimics one's own arm and the plate mimics the K&K jig plate.
Worked like a champ.

[euraquilo]

Originally Posted by Corndog

Anyway. As one can see, the arm mimics one's own arm and the plate mimics the K&K jig plate.
Worked like a champ.

Great idea! Some questions.

• Do you create a new template plate to put on the arm for each guitar (since bridge plates vary)?
• With only one pin in it (as far as I can see) how do you line it up with the saddle line?

General question to the group at large:
Has anyone tried using an endoscope/borescope or some other small camera inside the guitar body (perhaps bluetooth-connected to your phone or computer) to guide your install process?

[Corndog]

Originally Posted by euraquilo

Great idea! Some questions.

• Do you create a new template plate to put on the arm for each guitar (since bridge plates vary)?
• With only one pin in it (as far as I can see) how do you line it up with the saddle line?

I built it to install a K&K in a Little Martin as the sound hole was too small to get my hand in it. Using the K&K plate, I copied the hole pattern for the two pins and took the measurement from the K&K to scribe the line where the pickups needed to go. Because of the small size of that guitar I radiused the corners to fit between the bracing that is narrower than a larger guitar so the jig should work for the larger guitar, no problem. But, if you can get your hand inside the guitar you shouldn't need a jig like this.

The one pin is set into the jig to locate it relative to (in this case) the high E string's pin hole. The golf tee drops down from the top to complete the alignment. This is just how the K&K jig works.

[Rudy4]

Originally Posted by Corndog

I built it to install a K&K in a Little Martin as the sound hole was too small to get my hand in it. Using the K&K plate, I copied the hole pattern for the two pins and took the measurement from the K&K to scribe the line where the pickups needed to go. Because of the small size of that guitar I radiused the corners to fit between the bracing that is narrower than a larger guitar so the jig should work for the larger guitar, no problem. But, if you can get your hand inside the guitar you shouldn't need a jig like this.

The one pin is set into the jig to locate it relative to (in this case) the high E string's pin hole. The golf tee drops down from the top to complete the alignment. This is just how the K&K jig works.

Looks like it would work fine in most situations.

The only thing that's a bit problematic is making sure all three sensors get pushed up to the bridge plate evenly. The usual method of K&K Pure Mini installation ensures that each sensor it bedded all the way against the bridge plate with minimal gel between the bridge plate and each transducer.

Good job on the jig making!

[poopsidoo]

Originally Posted by tadol

I’d highly recommend the UltraTonic - a big step up from the K&K, and arguably easier to install. But if you have already purchased the K&K, the UltraTonic conversion/upgrade kit should be on your radar -

I agree. I have the Ultratonic upgrade on my J-45 and the regular ultratonic on my HD-28. Never looked back.

[Guitars44me]

I don’t believe anyone has mentioned using a Redeye preamp with the K&K.

Works great for me. As does the TC Electronics Harmony G. The guitar preamp in the HGXT works fine!

Cheers

Paul

[swarfrat]

The Behringer EQ700 is 500k input impedance and rolls off the bass enough to take care of the problem. You can then use the slider to tweak to taste .

[Rudy4]

The other thing that might be a consideration for the JJB pickup is that the output jack has only a single hole drilled in the jack's barrel. I much prefer the K&K jack's two holes, as it allows a small Allen wrench or drill bit to be inserted so the jack can be held as the jack is secured with the barrel nut. This greatly lessens the chance of deforming the threads so the trim nut can be added without running over deformed threads on the barrel.

Drilling the second hole isn't difficult, but some may not have the tools or confidence to do it.

[kathyson]

Originally Posted by Guitars44me

I don’t believe anyone has mentioned using a Redeye preamp with the K&K.

Works great for me. As does the TC Electronics Harmony G. The guitar preamp in the HGXT works fine!

Cheers

Paul

What he said.

[RogerPease]

I seem to recall someone using a super magnet stuck on the back of a sensor with putty and another magnet sitting on the top of the bridge. This to snap the sensor into the right spot. Obviously the sensors would need to be done one at a time. Anyone remember this?

I did it the conventional way with the K&K template and golf tee. Including when I upgraded it to the Ultra Tonic version. Much happier with that, BTW.

Cheers, _Roger

[Rudy4]

In some situations, like this small classical guitar, transducer installation can be difficult. I made up this "$2 Cat Laser Toy" wood yoke that can be used to check transducer positioning before installation as well as installing each transducer accurately.

The lower post is placed in position (using the plastic mirror placed inside the guitar) and the laser beam can then be used to mark the transducers location at the saddle location.

When a transducer is held on the mounting post with putty the yoke can then be used to guide the transducer into position and hold it in place for 60 seconds while the gel CA starts to set.

The laser beam shows where the transducer is, and the precise location can be seen in the mirror located inside the guitar.