Tricone upgrade

[Haussmann]

Asian tricone. No label. No serial number. Only the star as the third fret dot stands out. Guitar looks bad. Also sounds bad.



Neck angle and consequently the string break angle on the bridge are not ideal.





Or is it due to this strange bump?

Maybe a prototype, built with a Monday hangover or put together on a rushed Friday?



Perhaps someone has already tried to make the poor thing sing?

I want to give it a try too..

[Robin, Wales]

I have had my hands inside a lot of those! LOL!!!

Try posting on the Michael Messer forum if you get stuck and need some advice.

[Haussmann]

Photos below are all Messer:





What a mess..

[Haussmann]

The idea of gluing a stick in the heel of the neck can only be defended in terms of production and economy, as it has nothing to do with tone, quite the opposite. It's simply a weak construction that tries to stay in place with a mishmash of screws, plates, and shims. And it doesn't work, given the amount of repairs.





But that's not the only reason to build a new neck for this guitar. The type of wood is one reason (mahogany instead of maple), and the headstock design is also not the most attractive.



Furthermore, I am not pleased with the scale length. On a tricone, it's currently 25 21/32 inches, while on a pre-war model it measures 24.75 inches. Perhaps this was done to accommodate the 12th fret, which on the older models is almost entirely on the body. It's a understandable choice, but the impact on tone should not be underestimated. It's not something that can be easily resolved by using a set of lighter strings (.012 instead of .013).



I prefer a neck stick that runs continuously from head to tail in one piece, with full support for the fingerboard.



And a kind of "slot" in the top of the body..

[Haussmann]

After the neck has been planed at the correct angle..



The head can be glued on.



To avoid a cover plate on the head..





the access to the truss rod is located at the back of the neck.



16 inch radius fretboard..



With aluminum dots.



Aligning the fretboard with the tailpiece to determine the position of the head.

[Guitars44me]

Digging this!

Hope it sounds as good as your work deserves…. Meaning Great

Cheers

Paul

[Robin, Wales]

... the access to the truss rod is located at the back of the neck...

Won't that be under the cover plate? So the strings would have to come off to access it?

[Haussmann]

Yes, Robin, to adjust the truss rod, the cover plate needs to be removed. Anything for looks, right Experience has taught me that the truss rod actually rarely needs to be adjusted, especially on a resonator guitar. Sometimes when trying out a different set of strings, and then the cover plate is removed anyway..



Meanwhile, I have sawn the inlay for the headstock out of a piece of aluminum;



A reference to the original in combination with the first letter of the owner's last name.





Also routed out the headstock shape.

[Haussmann]

After securing a few position blocks..



The fretboard can be glued..



And then comes the fun part..

[Haussmann]

Last weekend, I installed the frets.



And a reminder for future DIY enthusiasts..



Afterward, I took out a whole range of cleaning products from the cabinet.



Hoping to remove the oxidation on the body.



That succeeded..



Thanks to a mother's recipe.

[Mandobart]

As the owner of both a vintage Harley and vintage Airstream, I go through a lot of Mother's.

[Haussmann]

For some reason, an Asian T-bridge is coated with a thick layer of black paint.



A layer that can only be removed after soaking it overnight in a strong paint stripper.





Meanwhile, the neck is treated with boiled linseed oil.

[Haussmann]

There are many theories circulating about this component. However, I have found that despite its curvature, the back of a metal resonator guitar is at risk of denting, particularly in the widest/lower section. Placing one of those 'mushrooms' (as they are often called) reduces that risk, and because this component also increases the stability of the back, it alters (improves?) the sound reflection as well.



Tapping, observing, and listening, I am searching for the ideal position for these things..

[Haussmann]

Due to the narrow saddle and the relatively fixed position of the cones, it is difficult to intonate a tricone accurately.



Which is why I prefer to make the saddle slightly thicker.



The difference in height and string angle between the old saddle



And the new one.



After everything is properly in place, I secure the cones with a small piece of aluminum tape



Ensuring everything stays in place when mounting the cover plate..

[Robin, Wales]

That's a lovely job!

Are you going to post a sound clip or video of it being played?