a Thin crack in the binding repair

[Lee D.]

Hi All,

The crack in the binding was caused by a heartbreaking guitar drop .
Since then The guitar was fixed , but there is still an ugly scar on the binding.
It's about an inch long and hairline thin but still bugs me.

My question is:

Is there a way of improving the way cracked binding looks?
(other than replacing the binding. )

My main issue is the instrument's aesthetics, as the guitar was fixed and it plays and sound great.

Is there any type of filler? paint? glue?
Any advice would be much appreciated


Thanks,
Lee

Edit: I do not know how to attach images

[mirwa]

Type of guitar, manufacturer and age helps with making recommendations, typically I like acetone and creating a paste from some of the left over binding strips.

Steve

[Lee D.]

Hi,
Requested info:

Takamine acoustic ,
model FP460
rosewood body , spruce top.

Age is 18 years.

Thanks,
Lee.

[fazool]

Without clear and close-up pictures this will be very difficult to help with.

[Lee D.]

Here ;

[fazool]

OK it looks like that was repaired a little poorly. It's hard to tell from the pic but it appears to be already glued down but with some crack still showing..

If it is not secured it will be easier to get it closed up well.

If that is ivoroid binding which is nitrocellulose-based you can meld the plastic together with some solvent, but don't do that if it's grained ivoroid.


If it's already glued in place and the gap is visible, you can melt some binding plastic as a top coat but it's a tricky job to make look right.

[Lee D.]

Yes, initially, I have taken it to a guy which apparently did not know what he was doing.
Then, years later, I took it to a pro, he re-finished the area around the preamp (which was a mess).

At the time, I did not want to touch the binding because my repair guy told me, it will not make a functional difference.
Now I do, because it bothers me.
I

If that is ivoroid binding which is nitrocellulose-based you can meld the plastic together with some solvent, but don't do that if it's grained ivoroid.

I assume that Takamine would know the answer to that ?
perhaps anybody knows what Takamine Japan is using on their higher end model ?

If it's already glued in place and the gap is visible, you can melt some binding plastic as a top coat but it's a tricky job to make look right.

Yes it was. it is glued tight.

I assume that the "binding plastic" to use also depends on the type of binding material?
Could you please share links to items I might need?
"binding plastic", recommended soldering kit ?

Thanks again,
Lee.

[fazool]

If it is smooth plastic or non-grained ivoroid, I would probably use a burn-in lacquer. I would scrap out some of the glue for a place for the fill to go. Then I would use a burn-in lacquer, mix some to get the right color match (tea stains work well to simulate age on binding).

Or if you want to go ultra simple: get testors white lacquer model paint. custom mix the color to match and using a tiny brush and magnifier fill the crack, then lightly scrap and polish it smooth.

It will never look perfect but with that method you can get it to look really good.

[Lee D.]

Just to make sure there are no mistakes

I need to get this product in the closest color I can reach.?

Thank you so much for your help!

[mirwa]

It actually does not look that bad,

use a razor to scrape the two sections flush with each other,
Dig a small Channel in the binding with the razor
dissolve a little binding into some acetone
Apply mix to surface area, allow to dry
Scrape he binding flat again
Apply a coat of protective finish

Steve

[mirwa]

This Martin had missing binding, I was contracted to manufacture new binding and fit it, no full respray, just localised repair, much to my disappointment



After creating the new layup



It was grafted and finished

[fazool]

Originally Posted by fazool

...you can meld the plastic together with some solvent, but don't do that if it's grained ivoroid....

Originally Posted by fazool

...I would scrap out some of the glue for a place for the fill to go. ...
If it's already glued in place and the gap is visible, you can melt some binding plastic as a top coat but it's a tricky job to make look right.

Originally Posted by mirwa

It actually does not look that bad,

use a razor to scrape the two sections flush with each other,
Dig a small Channel in the binding with the razor
dissolve a little binding into some acetone
Apply mix to surface area, allow to dry
Scrape he binding flat again
Apply a coat of protective finish

Steve

The only trick there is if you've never dissolved or melded plastics like that - it can get sloppy and make things worse (like any finish repair). Do that but just be careful

[mirwa]

That is why like every repair we do, a cost and skill set is involved, many people assume they can do a better job than a person who does it day in and day out. Some actually can, many cannot

No secret IMO exists on how to do things, many people yourself included are more than willing to share their experiences, it’s the actual application.

knowing the process we do is just a very small part of the job, when I comment on jobs, I just comment on how I do it, it is then up to the individual to decide if that is beyond their ability and then go pay someone or accept the finish they achieve doing the job themselves.

Steve

[fazool]

Ahhhh yes my post was meant to show I agreed that your approach is probably the best and to encourage him to use caution if unpracticed with that method.

[mirwa]

Originally Posted by fazool

Ahhhh yes my post was meant to show I agreed that your approach is probably the best and to encourage him to use caution if unpracticed with that method.

All good, I had read your comments. I still like to hear myself and write what I would do, even if it’s been said earlier in a post

Steve