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  #46  
Old 11-09-2018, 09:43 AM
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Mark Hatcher Mark Hatcher is offline
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Default Logo

I am sticking with the way I usually to my logo. I figure using a branding iron to burn my "H" into the wood is certainly making use of a very old technology!



There aren't many embellishments on this guitar so when there are I am keeping them subtle. Like the bear claw figure in the center back graft;



Thanks for following along!
Mark
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  #47  
Old 11-09-2018, 11:52 AM
ross748 ross748 is offline
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The deep thought and subtle creative input in this build is amazing. Great work Mark. Following along and looking forward to the finished product.
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  #48  
Old 11-10-2018, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ross748 View Post
The deep thought and subtle creative input in this build is amazing. Great work Mark. Following along and looking forward to the finished product.
Thanks ross748, I am really enjoying this build and the research that goes into it!

Mark
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  #49  
Old 11-11-2018, 07:29 AM
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Default Ladder Back Bracing

Here is a picture of the back bracing going on:



I typically do a very contemporary latticed braced active back but, the look and voicing of the traditional ladder back braces are more appropriate on this model's design. It will still be light and active and will be used to build overall tone balance for these woods and deep body design.


Thanks for viewing!

Mark
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  #50  
Old 11-12-2018, 11:36 AM
ukejon ukejon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Hatcher View Post
I am sticking with the way I usually to my logo. I figure using a branding iron to burn my "H" into the wood is certainly making use of a very old technology!



There aren't many embellishments on this guitar so when there are I am keeping them subtle. Like the bear claw figure in the center back graft;



Thanks for following along!
Mark
Awww Mark, you glued the H in upside-down. Such a shame...total disaster. Go ahead a finish the guitar and Iíll pay a deep deep discount to take it off your hands. Glad to help out!
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2009 Pono koa parlor (NAMM prototype)
2014 Pono N30 DC EIR/Spruce crossover
2014 Hatcher Greta 13 fret cutaway in EIR/cedar
2017 Hatcher Josie fan fret mahogany
1973 Sigma GCR7 (OM model) rosewood and spruce
2014 Rainsong OM1000N2

....and about 5 really nice tenor ukuleles at any given moment
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  #51  
Old 11-12-2018, 11:50 AM
jaymarsch jaymarsch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Hatcher View Post
Here is a picture of the back bracing going on:



I typically do a very contemporary latticed braced active back but, the look and voicing of the traditional ladder back braces are more appropriate on this model's design. It will still be light and active and will be used to build overall tone balance for these woods and deep body design.


Thanks for viewing!

Mark
Very cool photo of the back ladder bracing. Always appreciate your attention to detail, Mark.

Best,
Jayne
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  #52  
Old 11-12-2018, 01:21 PM
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Very cool Mark. When its ready to roll, pm me, I'll shoot you my address so you can send it to me for a complete review! Looking forward to it!
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  #53  
Old 11-12-2018, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ukejon View Post
Awww Mark, you glued the H in upside-down. Such a shame...total disaster. Go ahead a finish the guitar and Iíll pay a deep deep discount to take it off your hands. Glad to help out!
Thanks ukejon, Glad to know youíve got my back!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaymarsch View Post
Very cool photo of the back ladder bracing. Always appreciate your attention to detail, Mark.

Best,
Jayne
Thanks Jayne!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Poppa View Post
Very cool Mark. When its ready to roll, pm me, I'll shoot you my address so you can send it to me for a complete review! Looking forward to it!
Thanks Poppa! Glad Iím getting so much support on this build!

Mark
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  #54  
Old 11-13-2018, 08:11 AM
ukejon ukejon is offline
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Love the little clamping trestles....very smart.
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2009 Pono koa parlor (NAMM prototype)
2014 Pono N30 DC EIR/Spruce crossover
2014 Hatcher Greta 13 fret cutaway in EIR/cedar
2017 Hatcher Josie fan fret mahogany
1973 Sigma GCR7 (OM model) rosewood and spruce
2014 Rainsong OM1000N2

....and about 5 really nice tenor ukuleles at any given moment
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  #55  
Old 11-13-2018, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ukejon View Post
Love the little clamping trestles....very smart.
Thanks, this helps keep the go bars from marring the braces or worse yet, a go bar can pretty easily pop off a brace and dent the top or back.
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  #56  
Old 11-13-2018, 09:18 AM
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Default Sides

Eastern Black Walnut is a pleasure to bend. It doesn't need a lot of heat so it's unlikely to be scorched. It also doesn't tend to crack on the outside curve or crinkle on the inside curves. Plus the bends hold well!



Here the Mahogany heel and neck blocks are going on:



The back is radiused and here I am installing Spanish Cedar kerfing:



Meanwhile, lest you were to think I'm moving along all business as usual, I've also been researching, both materials and techniques for putting the neck together. I'm setting up and practicing the old style joinery that was once used to hold a headstock on.
Today a headstock is normally just cut out along with the neck. When thicker pieces of Mahogany started becoming available around the turn of the century the factories started using a one piece neck. It's a lot faster, and doesn't require much skill. The problem is that doesn't make for a very strong headstock because the grain is short on that angled head. Laminates on the top and back help sure all this up but, that's not how they used to do this. The stronger method is to use a separate piece of wood for the headstock. There are several ways to join the headstock. The best way is also one of the oldest, most time consuming, and hardest ways so of course, I'm going to get really good at this because it's also the coolest way!

It's called a bird's mouth joint for obvious reasons:



Luckily, I have a lot of previous experience making this type of joint from 20 years ago when I was making Cedar strip ocean kayaks. I used this type of joinery when constructing paddles. The thing I love about this kind of old joinery and some of the other old style wood joinery is the joints are hand fitted and there is a mechanical element holding it all together. In this case the joint is made tight enough that you can push the headstock down in until it tightens up with about a 20 thousandths gap. Then you hold a wood block to protect the headstock up top and bring it on home with a smack of a wooden mallet:



As a craftsman I find it quite satisfying as I hone my skills mastering this art. The only question that remains is, do I really need glue for this to hold?


So no, it's not business as usual in the Hatcher studio!


Thanks for following along.

Mark
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Last edited by Mark Hatcher; 11-13-2018 at 03:57 PM.
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  #57  
Old 11-13-2018, 03:47 PM
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Default Old Peterborough

It's funny how when you are concentrating on a particular subject so many related things seem to just come out of the woodwork. Such as this 1886 map of my town that I just came across. The view of the town is pretty much the view I would have from my home if there weren't a 132 years worth of trees that have since grown in:



This would make a great background for a paper label inside a Woodsman guitar!
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Last edited by Mark Hatcher; 11-13-2018 at 03:57 PM.
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  #58  
Old 11-14-2018, 04:52 AM
ukejon ukejon is offline
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Fantastic workmanship. Do you cut the female (neck) part of the birdís mouth joint first and use that to mark the angle of the male (headstock) piece? Or is there a template or specific angle of some sort?
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My YouTube Page:
http://www.youtube.com/user/ukejon

2009 Pono koa parlor (NAMM prototype)
2014 Pono N30 DC EIR/Spruce crossover
2014 Hatcher Greta 13 fret cutaway in EIR/cedar
2017 Hatcher Josie fan fret mahogany
1973 Sigma GCR7 (OM model) rosewood and spruce
2014 Rainsong OM1000N2

....and about 5 really nice tenor ukuleles at any given moment
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  #59  
Old 11-14-2018, 07:25 AM
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Mark Hatcher Mark Hatcher is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ukejon View Post
Fantastic workmanship. Do you cut the female (neck) part of the bird’s mouth joint first and use that to mark the angle of the male (headstock) piece? Or is there a template or specific angle of some sort?
The headstock is angled at 15 degrees and the bird’s beak is angle is about 23 degrees taper and has about 8 1/2 degree tapered sides. I use basic templates to get me in the neighborhood then fit the joint by hand.
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Last edited by Mark Hatcher; 11-23-2018 at 05:48 AM.
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  #60  
Old 11-14-2018, 11:39 AM
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Default Old Hog

I've been on the hunt for more 100 yr old+ woods to expand my selection for the Woodsman model. I just came across a number of 150 yr old+ salvaged wood Mahogany back and side sets that originated in the Central American country of Belize:



They are very hard sets with nice character and ring. I'm looking forward to making guitars with these!
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Last edited by Mark Hatcher; 11-14-2018 at 03:03 PM.
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