#16
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Without knowing what you play, the difference could be subtle or substantial. |
#17
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Curious
Thank you all for the replies. I am considering buying one but wondered what was special or different about Irish guitars.
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Taylorcrazy_____________ |
#18
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I own a McIlroy A25c. For me, it’s a forever guitar. The craftsmanship is outstanding, and it’s just beautiful to look at. As you know from playing the Lowden, the tonal profile is distinctive. The McIlroy is so freakin responsive that weaknesses in your technique will become obvious quickly. It made me a better player. If you can find one to play, it’s certainly worth it.
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#19
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My Avalon was the same way, I had forgotten about this.
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Barry My SoundCloud page Avalon L-320C, Guild D-120, Martin D-16GT, McIlroy A20, Pellerin SJ CW Cordobas - C5, Fusion 12 Orchestra, C12, Stage Traditional Alvarez AP66SB, Seagull Folk Aria {Johann Logy}: |
#20
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I don’t understand. I have a Lowden and it’s not any harder to play than any of my other guitars. And I wouldn’t consider myself an accomplished player. And the same for the McIiroy I used to own.
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#21
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My Avalon was like that. It took a week or so to get used to it. My Gibson, Martin and Larrivee weren't half as responsive as the Avalon L2-320 I bought and I have pretty decent volume control with my finger style.
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Barry My SoundCloud page Avalon L-320C, Guild D-120, Martin D-16GT, McIlroy A20, Pellerin SJ CW Cordobas - C5, Fusion 12 Orchestra, C12, Stage Traditional Alvarez AP66SB, Seagull Folk Aria {Johann Logy}: |
#22
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I've had two McIlroys for the past 10 years, an A25 and an A30 - no issues. Identical except for the woods there is a lot they have in common but the sounds are quite distinct.
A30 Sitka/EIR More versatile than the A25 in terms of how it is played - good for strumming and when played finger style gives a clear full treble with balanced sound. A25 Cedar/Walnut - very responsive to a light touch - warmer than the A30 but with a more defined bass due to the overtones, more complex, overtones galore, and this really is a delight to play on slower numbers. Usually stays in DADGAD tuning. |
#23
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George Lowden started......
then because of licencing issues and a serious court case...... the factory in Newtownards that HAD been making Lowdens, had to rebrand and so the same luthiers were then making guitars that became Avalon. and George moved to Downpatrick and started again, having reclaimed his name. Meanwhile George's former production manager Dermot went to Antrim and set up McIlroy. personal taste...... Lowden necks are too chunky for my hand. They are magnificent instruments and George is an absolute gentleman, but I can't afford to get them to build me a custome sized neck. McIlroy.... fit my hand PERFECTLY. My Mahogany / Spruce Jumbo is my Heirloom instrument. i LOVE it..... Avalon..... I've played a few and they are more Lowden than McIlroy. all 3 brands are AS GOOD as any other guitar brand, and better than most!
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#24
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Why did it take you a week or two to get used to it? I didn’t have any issues with either my Martin or McIlroy. They played great from the get-go. Just curious.
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#25
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Hi Rosewood-
It’s a little hard to describe, but I’ll try. When I say “responsive”, what I mean is that my McIlroy just seems to be “waiting” to make sound. I’ve moved it from its location with the rest of my guitars in my man cave, because it rings out in its case when the TV is on, if that gives you an idea. Consequently, I learned that when I play it, any imprecision in my picking hand or fretting hand, such as striking adjacent strings with my fingernail or lifting a fretting finger so that it makes contact with an adjacent string, produces a lot of extra noise. Of course, that can happen with any guitar, but it’s much more obvious with the McIlroy. I attribute this to what I’m calling it’s “responsiveness”. I’m guessing you are puzzled my claims because your technique is probably much better than mine! If your technique is already good, what happens when I play wouldn’t happen when you play. |
#26
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McIlroy's are a better value than Lowden by at least $1k IMO. Mine is an A30c (Rosewood/Sitka -my favorite "flavor"). Resonant, responsive, long sustain and loud (when you want it).
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#27
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#28
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I guess 'cause I suck at playing? I don't know, it just did.
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Barry My SoundCloud page Avalon L-320C, Guild D-120, Martin D-16GT, McIlroy A20, Pellerin SJ CW Cordobas - C5, Fusion 12 Orchestra, C12, Stage Traditional Alvarez AP66SB, Seagull Folk Aria {Johann Logy}: |
#29
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I have played dozens of Lowdens and a few Avalons and I understand the quest you're on - there is just something distinct and intoxicating about the Irish sound and build approach. What is it? Hard to say, but 'lush' comes to mind, also they seem to be more effortlessly responsive. My Cedar/Walnut Mcilroy is very forward with the overtones and I've played other Irish guitars like that. You pick a note and then the harmonic shows up in the note. Anyway, you can't go wrong with any of these 3. I can't speak with experience about other Irish builders, but Lowden, Avalon and Mcilory are truly magnificent guitars and quite different from the 'American' sound. George Lowden is The Godfather of the Irish acoustic for sure, and a genius. But I feel like I got an absolute steal when I bought my Mcilroy. I've had the pleasure of touring Dermott's shop. He is beyond fastidious and he makes incredible instruments.
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Steve Mcilroy A25c (Cedar, English Walnut) with Schatten HFN (custom MiSi Crystal Jack Preamp, putty install.) Maton 75th Anniversary OM 50th Anniversary Fender Am Std Strat. Gretsch 6120 Nashville Players in Blue. Line 6 Helix. If I played as much as I read threads, I'd be a pro.... |
#30
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Greetings.
Appreciate this thread. Curious how you would characterize the Irish tone. I've only played a few Lowden's once in a shop and if I remember correctly, I had the impression that they were more stringy sounding. This is not a criticism- but just what I remember. But that was about 20 years ago. Thanks for any insight. Quote:
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