#1
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Lite gauge strings/neck reset?
Would using lite gauge strings, say 11's as opposed to 12's, reduce the possibility of needing a neck reset in the future?
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Larrivee OM-03 Seagull SWS Maritime Mini Jumbo Alvarez AP70SB Parlor Alvarez AF60SHB Seagull Concert Hall Mahogany Harmony H1215. 1953 An 80 year old Kay (approx) Epiphone ES-339 Epiphone Les Paul 50's Standard 3 home built Strat's |
#2
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Choose strings by comfort and tone not by the prospects of minimising something that may or may not happen in the future.
To answer your question, a reduced string tension will place less demands on the guitar, so if your guitar was built light enough that 12/54s would necessitate a neck reset over a 20 year period, then switching to 11s would reduce that risk fractionally, its like how long is a piece of string Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#3
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In theory, by some small amount it might delay the need for one, if one is ever needed. In practice, not by enough to make a difference.
Use the strings you like. If you are really concerned about dealing with an eventual neck reset, buy a guitar with a bolt-on neck, preferably one that does not have the fingerboard extension glued directly to the top. Doing so will reduce the neck reset to a quick, simple $75 task, rather than a $500 task that might leave you without the instrument for months, depending upon brand and repair facilities. As an aside, it occurs to me that buying a glued-in - particularly epoxied - neck joint with the fingerboard glued to the top, is a little like buying a car who's wheels are welded on. Regardless of what tradition might be, few people would consider welded-on wheels a design improvement over bolt-on wheels that are easily removed for tire replacement. |
#4
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I'm using 11's now but not for the reason of trying to prevent a neck reset. I know I am maybe compromising sound and volume a bit but I like how they feel over all.
The question was an after thought. Thanks
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Larrivee OM-03 Seagull SWS Maritime Mini Jumbo Alvarez AP70SB Parlor Alvarez AF60SHB Seagull Concert Hall Mahogany Harmony H1215. 1953 An 80 year old Kay (approx) Epiphone ES-339 Epiphone Les Paul 50's Standard 3 home built Strat's |
#5
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Quote:
1- Using heavier gauge strings than recommended by the manufacturer, MAY cause trouble. One is the possibility of creating a situation where the neck MAY need a reset. 2-My opinion is, that string tension is 90% of the direct cause of the neck block rotating, caused by distortion of the soundboard, creating the necessity of the neck needing a reset. 3-If using the recommended string gauge for your guitar, Some guitars will NEVER need a neck reset, Some MAY, some WILL need a neck reset eventually. 4-Since IMHO string tension is the major factor in neck sets being required, If your guitar is not to be used for a period of time, relax the tension on the strings. I don't even like to discuss this thought. I will say, there are amply comments listed on the internet that say string tension can, and in my opinion DOES contribute tremendously to the eventual need of a neck reset. So how can one argue that relaxing the tension on the strings will not help. Can't have it both ways, either tension contributes, or it does not, therefore if you remove the tension, it doesn't take much of a stretch of the imagination to realize that the effects of string tension will be minimized, or eliminated all together. Now before you jump down my throat, PLEASE read and understand what I wrote, and PLEASE check Google and ask, "What causes a guitar to need a neck reset". Checkout these links. http://guitarless.com/2010/07/why-do...-a-neck-reset/ http://www.wellsguitars.com/Articles/Neck_Joints.html Ed
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"Quote The Raven, NEVERMORE !" |
#6
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My apologies for the tangential comments.
The word MAY indicates that one has permission to do something. The word MIGHT indicates that there is a probability of something. I don’t know why but the word might has all but disappeared from common usage having been replaced with the word may. As an aside, to what do you attribute the other 10%? |
#7
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Quote:
The heavier strings might be best for more aggressive styles of playing, especially with a flat-pick...big Rock-show strumming, bluegrass, et al, where you really have to play pretty hard to get that top moving. That they might accelerate wear & tear on the neck is a valid, additional consideration, but ultimately you have to go with what inspires you, regardless.
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Larrivee L-10 Custom Larrivee DV-10K Larrivee L-03 Taylor 412K ('96) Yamaha LL16-12 (SOLD) PRS 'Studio' (SOLD) Rickenbacker 660-12 (SOLD) Fender USA Deluxe Strat Fender USA Roadhouse Strat Fender MIM/USA Partscaster Fender MIM Nashville Tele Kelsey Custom Hardtail Strat Fender MIM P-Bass |
#8
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Without knowing how heavily the guitar is built, it would be a guess as to how much lighter strings are negatively affecting the sound, or how they are affecting any future need for a reset.
I would just say that there are many factory guitars that are over built, and may not need a reset for 50 years, if ever. If that is the case, I would not use lighter strings for that reason alone. |
#9
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Quote:
Originally I wrote 99%, but I figured someone would chime in with 10 examples, contrary to string tension, with 90 examples of those which string tension was the main cause. In normal use of a guitar over it's lifetime, I would say 99.9% are string tension related, the other .01% would be from long term leaning against a wall not being played, without strings installed, in a humid room. I have had a similar discussion between the words MAY, and CAN......MAY the guitar need a neck reset, If it chooses. CAN it have a neck reset, I don't know, depends on whether it has the funds to pay for one, If it has the funds it MIGHT, or May depends on how you look at it. Exactly, in my examples of MAY, I would give your guitar permission to warp, and require a neck reset. Because like you being the grammar Nazi, I am the neck reset Nazi. Ed
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"Quote The Raven, NEVERMORE !" Last edited by Edgar Poe; 10-20-2019 at 10:17 AM. |