#46
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Yes my friend......it will be if you keep it in the oven long enough
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----------------- Feel free to subscribe to the Youtube channel if you like alternate tunings. http://www.youtube.com/user/Frankensmile/videos Guitars: 1) Greenfield G1 fanned fret (Moon spruce /Malaysian blackwood) 2) Furch Little Jane 3) Loef 12 string high strung parlour |
#47
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Hi Marcus,
For a first guitar I would always choose German/euro spruce. Most of the guitars I fell in love w/ has this top... They project well and are complex... Never liked anything adi topped as I find them stiff. Englemann is another good choice, for me thay sound similar to German/euro... Sitka is always good, but I prefer the complexity of the other spruces.... But the best Lowden I have played is a O-10, cedar top and mahogany back and sides... It has a powerful, warm and woody sound... It is probably in the top 3 of factory guitars I have played. |
#48
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One of the best Lowdens I ever played was a small bodied cedar and mahogany instrument - probably the best blues guitar I've found yet!
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#49
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How hard is Redwood? Does it mark and scratch as easily as cedar or is it as durable as spruce. I mean in the sense of holding up to percussion on the sound board. As ideally I prefer the sound of redwood but if it isn't going to be as durable as spruce, I will go with spruce instead. Would appreciate feedback from people who have had experience with that! |
#50
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Redwood can be highly variable in hardness and stiffness. So take this with a grain of salt.
Redwood Quote:
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A bunch of nice archtops, flattops, a gypsy & nylon strings… |
#51
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For those wondering what this test is, my research has come up with: The Janka hardness test measures the resistance of a sample of wood to denting and wear. It measures the force required to embed an 11.28mm (.444 in) steel ball into wood to half the ball's diameter. (Taken from Wikipedia) |
#52
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Incidentally, despite the Janka hardness rating for Redwood being higher than Cedar, I've read in a few instances that Redwood is as prone to dings, if not more so, as Cedar. And is prone to cracks too! Can anyone verify this as I do a lot of "guitar beating" and would hate for the Redwood to crack!
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#53
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From my research and experience there is......"redwood" and there is REDWOOD. REDWOOD would be a great top from a great builder ( Lowden and others) which has the physical properties needed to withstand a tendency to crack. Stiffness along the grain and throughout ( along with great tap tone). Not all redwood has these properties which is why the subject is variable and not consistent.
In my view, if you do a lot of "guitar beating", your guitar, no matter what wood the soundboard turns out to be is going to get a bit messed up. Tommy Emmanuel's spruce guitars are testimony to that! Will it cause it crack?? "Wood is wood" and unique.... IMHO no one can say for certain without knowing all the factors about how the guitar is cared for beyond it being played aggressively and even then I don't think there are guarantees with something as organic and kinetic as a guitar soundboard. There may be odds, but no guarantees.
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1993 Bourgeois JOM 1967 Martin D12-20 2007 Vines Artisan 2014 Doerr Legacy 2013 Bamburg FSC- 2002 Flammang 000 12 fret 2000 McCollum Grand Auditorium ______________________________ Soundcloud Spotify |
#54
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FWIW, I have played the cr@p out of my '95 Taylor with spruce top, and while it does show a bunch of pits from spirited playing, there is zero structural damage after 19 years.
I can't believe it's been 19 years. Now I feel old.
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Solo acoustic guitar videos: This Boy is Damaged - Little Watercolor Pictures of Locomotives - Ragamuffin |
#55
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A recent discussion about redwood...
http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/f...hlight=Redwood Quote:
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A bunch of nice archtops, flattops, a gypsy & nylon strings… |
#56
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Hi Marcus The last Lowden I owned before moving on from Lowden to another builder was an O35xc (with bevel) redwood/cocobolo. Redwood is indeed more tolarable than cedar and yes I would say almost as good as spruce in terms of surface harness. The sound of redwood is also somewhere between cedar and spruce (it is almost a combo of adirondack and cedar). It certainly has much more sparkle than cedar. In my experience (with Lowden bracing), the sound can be a harsh at time. Once changing strings from Elixir to Daddario phsophor/bronz that aspect improves. I don't know how much you are paying for your custom order but The Fellowship of Acoustics has an O-model with bevel of redwood/cocobolo for a very good price.
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----------------- Feel free to subscribe to the Youtube channel if you like alternate tunings. http://www.youtube.com/user/Frankensmile/videos Guitars: 1) Greenfield G1 fanned fret (Moon spruce /Malaysian blackwood) 2) Furch Little Jane 3) Loef 12 string high strung parlour |
#57
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Sitka Spruce and Adirondack are very durable. European Spruce a little less durable and Engelmann even less durable still. However, Redwood and Cedar are significantly more prone to dents. Redwood can vary a great deal and so I'm sure that there are some tops that are closer to Spruce but in my experience, Redwood has always been extremely delicate. Redwood is also extremely crack prone - although you would need to be doing some very rough percussive stuff for that to become an issue. If you are concerned about denting the top, do not consider Cedar or Redwood.
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#58
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Multiple guitars including a 1979 Fender that needs a neck re-set |
#59
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#60
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Again, my recommendation is some type of Spruce/Rosewood. Best of luck to you and whatever decision you make, I hope you are thrilled with the outcome. |
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Tags |
40th anniversary lowden, cocobolo, cuban mahogany, fanned fret guitars, ziricote |
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