What would the recommended RPM be for a buffing machine? RPM

[Jimhar]

I have read others say what their ideal speed of their buffing wheels are set to but I do not have the experience using one to decide what my ideal speed would be. Whether we talk RPM or surface feet per minute I would love to know what some of you experienced with these matters would say about your preferences for using these buffers. I am trying to decide as I am putting one of these together now and am buying the materials needed and am at that point of do or or get off the pot on size of pulley to use to get the required speed on the buffer. So any advice offered would be greatly appreciated. I know if anyone would know you all would. Thanks a lot Jim

[Rudy4]

Originally Posted by Jimhar

I have read others say what their ideal speed of their buffing wheels are set to but I do not have the experience using one to decide what my ideal speed would be. Whether we talk RPM or surface feet per minute I would love to know what some of you experienced with these matters would say about your preferences for using these buffers. I am trying to decide as I am putting one of these together now and am buying the materials needed and am at that point of do or or get off the pot on size of pulley to use to get the required speed on the buffer. So any advice offered would be greatly appreciated. I know if anyone would know you all would. Thanks a lot Jim

Stu-mac's 14" diameter buffs are designed for a 715 rpm spindle speed. That gives you a idea for how to calculate FPM if you go with a different diameter buff.

Watch the O'Brien Guitars Youtube video on buffing to get an idea for the importance of running a LOOSE belt.

[Fathand]

I have a Shop Fox buffing arbor which is identical to the old Stew Mac one except for price. I run 12" or 10" wheels with a 1/4 hp 1725 rpm motor. The step pulley runs at 2:1 so 867 or so rpm. I leave the belt very loose to prevent me from pushing too hard.
I have run 8" wheels directly on a 1/4hp motor but you have to be careful not to burn through. You can figure out the fpm.

[Jimhar]

Originally Posted by Rudy4

Stu-mac's 14" diameter buffs are designed for a 715 rpm spindle speed. That gives you a idea for how to calculate FPM if you go with a different diameter buff.

Watch the O'Brien Guitars Youtube video on buffing to get an idea for the importance of running a LOOSE belt.

I appreciate the the informaion on the Stewmac recommendation for 715RPM. I was going to shoot for that and came across someone who said their ideal buffing speed was a bit higher at aboout 1000 or so. I have no finishing experience with one of these machines so I thought i would ask here. What I have is the old stewmac model that has the 3/4" shaft that I acquired used and it was never used and had nothing to finish it out. So I am building a base and trying to use some things I have to minimize what I end spending on this to finish it. I did get 2 12" buffung wheels with the buffer but was thinking I would buy 2 more and double them up for a wider wheel. I had seen many do this and assumed it must be a good thing to do judging from that alone. I also wondered about going ahead and getting another pair of them so I would have a 3rd wheel to use with a different type of compound since they say not to mix the compounds on a wheel. I really dont know if I need 3 compounds or can simply get by with just two wheels. I am glad o get the feedback on the loose belt trick as I had read that and thought it sounded like a good idea and wondered if I was right in my thinking. Appears so. Thanks

I have a motor that is 4500 rpm which I would have to do some serious pully work on to make it work at the 715 rpm speed. It may be much simpler to use a 1725 rpm motor since I'm having trouble getting that one down to 715rpm. I have thought of using a 1" intermediate shaft which I have and a 6" pully paired with a 2" on that 1" shaft to get the rpm down enough. I otherwise would have to live with the rpm in the 1000 area if I do not use the 1" shaft. Have you tried to take the stewmac unit apart to put a larger pulley on the shaft. Mine looks like it has a seam that would allow that to happen. That may would open up other avenues if could ge a larger pulley on that shaft.

Thanks for the ideas and I would welcome any other thoughts on the subject as it is a work in progress.

jim

[Jimhar]

Originally Posted by Fathand

I have a Shop Fox buffing arbor which is identical to the old Stew Mac one except for price. I run 12" or 10" wheels with a 1/4 hp 1725 rpm motor. The step pulley runs at 2:1 so 867 or so rpm. I leave the belt very loose to prevent me from pushing too hard.
I have run 8" wheels directly on a 1/4hp motor but you have to be careful not to burn through. You can figure out the fpm.

I am thinking of changing to a 1/3 hp 1725 motor for this buffer and wonder if your 1/4 hp motor is fine with 12 " buffers or do you wish you had more hp. Since you do run the belt slack I would assume that you have plenty of power out of the unit for those 12 " buffers.
jim

[Fathand]

Originally Posted by Jimhar

I am thinking of changing to a 1/3 hp 1725 motor for this buffer and wonder if your 1/4 hp motor is fine with 12 " buffers or do you wish you had more hp. Since you do run the belt slack I would assume that you have plenty of power out of the unit for those 12 " buffers.
jim

I seem to be ok with 1/4 hp but I only run a 1" wide buffing wheel. If you double them up there will be more friction and you might need 1/3hp. More power can't hurt. Buy whatever 1725 rpm motor you can find used locally. They seem to be readily available for $25-$50. I have a 2" pulley on my motor.

I believe the unit stated 1/3hp and 10" diameter but that might be specs for polishing metal. If you run smaller wheels your rpm can be higher, fpm is more important than rpm.

I made a mounting base from Stew Mac web site plans which holds the arbor out away from the edge of the bench top, 12" wheels might be too large if mounted direct to the bench.

[Jimhar]

Originally Posted by Fathand

I seem to be ok with 1/4 hp but I only run a 1" wide buffing wheel. If you double them up there will be more friction and you might need 1/3hp. More power can't hurt. Buy whatever 1725 rpm motor you can find used locally. They seem to be readily available for $25-$50. I have a 2" pulley on my motor.

I believe the unit stated 1/3hp and 10" diameter but that might be specs for polishing metal. If you run smaller wheels your rpm can be higher, fpm is more important than rpm.

I made a mounting base from Stew Mac web site plans which holds the arbor out away from the edge of the bench top, 12" wheels might be too large if mounted direct to the bench.

Thanks for all the good info. I'm really feeling my way here and I cant tell you how much that helps. It keeps me from making so many mistakes because I do get impatient and act before I have the best information in hand sometimes. I did buy a used 1/3 hp , 1725 rpm motor today from a neighbor that put it on facebook and it is like new that he never used. I was having trouble making the 4500 rpm motor I had work for me. I plan to put this on a base of its own instead of clamping it to a bench because I tend to put too many things on on benchtops and have no place to put things. All of my tools of any size are on wheels and that seems to work well for me. I love to look at other peoples workshop to get ideas from their use of space. My shop being small has to be organized because of that to keep the space workable. You can get some great ideas looking at what others have done in their workshop. Thanks again for the time.

jim

[Fathand]

Originally Posted by Jimhar

Thanks for all the good info. I'm really feeling my way here and I cant tell you how much that helps. It keeps me from making so many mistakes because I do get impatient and act before I have the best information in hand sometimes. I did buy a used 1/3 hp , 1725 rpm motor today from a neighbor that put it on facebook and it is like new that he never used. I was having trouble making the 4500 rpm motor I had work for me. I plan to put this on a base of its own instead of clamping it to a bench because I tend to put too many things on on benchtops and have no place to put things. All of my tools of any size are on wheels and that seems to work well for me. I love to look at other peoples workshop to get ideas from their use of space. My shop being small has to be organized because of that to keep the space workable. You can get some great ideas looking at what others have done in their workshop. Thanks again for the time.

jim

My first attempt at buffing an instrument was a flat top mandolin build. I had a 3450 rpm bench grinder that I had coverted to a buffer for buffing aluminum motorcycle parts. It was amazing how fast that would burn through nitro on wood. Letting your finish dry for a week or a month is also important.

As stated, I built the base for my buffer from plans on the SM site. I use one bolt with a wing nut and a clamp to attach to my bench when in use, most of the year it is stored under the bench. My router table, jigsaw, drum sander and ring roller all live there too. My table saw is mostly used as a bench for my belt sander. I should put some things on wheels but mostly I drag them out and slide them back, making a racket.

Good luck with your buffing.

[Rudy4]

Originally Posted by Jimhar

Thanks for all the good info. I'm really feeling my way here and I cant tell you how much that helps. It keeps me from making so many mistakes because I do get impatient and act before I have the best information in hand sometimes. I did buy a used 1/3 hp , 1725 rpm motor today from a neighbor that put it on facebook and it is like new that he never used. I was having trouble making the 4500 rpm motor I had work for me. I plan to put this on a base of its own instead of clamping it to a bench because I tend to put too many things on on benchtops and have no place to put things. All of my tools of any size are on wheels and that seems to work well for me. I love to look at other peoples workshop to get ideas from their use of space. My shop being small has to be organized because of that to keep the space workable. You can get some great ideas looking at what others have done in their workshop. Thanks again for the time.

jim

Here ya go...

[Fathand]

Originally Posted by Rudy4

Here ya go...

Is that a 14" Delta bandsaw?

[Rudy4]

Originally Posted by Fathand

Is that a 14" Delta bandsaw?

Delta 12" with a 3" riser. It has been a great band saw, and it wears a 1/2" wide 3 tpi skip tooth blade. It cuts everything I need, including brass and aluminum bar stock up to 3/8" thick. It re-saws up to 8".

Many years ago I vowed that I would only buy tools that I could move by myself and that's been a very valuable rule for me. Almost everything is on wheels so it's easy to roll out to the area normally occupied by one of the cars.

[Fathand]

Originally Posted by Rudy4

Delta 12" with a 3" riser. It has been a great band saw, and it wears a 1/2" wide 3 tpi skip tooth blade. It cuts everything I need, including brass and aluminum bar stock up to 3/8" thick. It re-saws up to 8".

Many years ago I vowed that I would only buy tools that I could move by myself and that's been a very valuable rule for me. Almost everything is on wheels so it's easy to roll out to the area normally occupied by one of MG]

I have a 14" Delta, from my father, no riser block but I adapted it to resaw 8.25", still uses 93.5 inch blades. https://www.flickr.com/photos/194462017@N08/51884433377

Did you add the vacuum attachment? Mine has one under the table that doesnt do a lot.