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#16
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Why not do what the late Wrecking Crew multi-instrumentalist Tommy Tedesco did - put together a custom-gauge set, restring it in drop-G tenor uke (GCEA low to high) or "octave Chicago" (DGBE), and enjoy...
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"I've never wished a man dead, but I have read some obituaries with great pleasure." - Mark Twain |
#17
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Thanks. I hadn’t considered that. After learning the proper chords and scales for Bluegrass, it would be an interesting switch.
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rubber Chicken Plastic lobster Jiminy Cricket. |
#18
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Did you decide already which one to take ?
When you listen to records, which one do you like best ? Mandolin, mandola , octave mandolin, bouzouki, mandocello - they all have their very special magic. I would go for the one that touches you most. I started with mandolin 30 years ago (guitar is still my main instrument) and added bouzouki, mandola, mandocello and octave mandolin later on - MAS ! I love them all, but when playing mandolin family instruments I would say that 80% mandolin, 15 % bouzouki/octave and 5 % mandola/ mandocello is the result.
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Guitars: Merrill C 28 (UltraTonic), Merrill OM 28 (Dazzo / DPA 4061), Merrill OM 18 (Schatten HFN passive), Martin D 18 (1948) (Dazzo / DPA 4061), Martin 017 (1934) (K&K trinity) Preamps: Grace Felix, Tone Dexter, RedEye, Fishman Platinum, Pendulum SPS-1 more stringed instruments: mandolin, mandola, mandocello, bouzouki, dobro, weissenborn, lap steel, 5-string banjo |
#19
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I like the suggestion of listening to a lot of the music of any of the instruments that you are considering. Bought an instrument kind of on a whim because it sounded cool, but then got tired of playing it after a while, realized that the initial newness of the sound captivated me but after a bit didn't like it all that well. Now if I get the notion on picking up something different I listen to a bunch of youtube vids on it to make sure I don't tire of the sound easily.
Also, on mandolin, it would help to play a few, some have v necks, others have round necks, and the width of fretboard can vary. These things make a difference, even apart from the sound. |
#20
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I've been playing mandolin for 40 yrs.
I recently bought a 50s Gibson Tenor arch top. Very cool inst. Tuned In "Irish tuning". It is basically a 4 string octave mandolin.. |
#21
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If you're getting a custom mandola made you could consider getting a 10 string one, an extra pair of B strings I think it was I had, which would give you those extra high notes without needing to travel so far up the neck.
I got one of these made about 25 years ago, sold it about 10 years ago and really really regret it now. It was a gorgeous instrument, and perfect for playing Irish tunes, which is my thing.
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Saltarelle Bourroche button box Yamaha guitar (an oldie, but a good 'un) |
#22
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1. A standard tuned 'dola is tuned C-G-D-A, like a viola. The body sized and dimensions are optimized for that range. Cutting out the C wastes all that great low tone. If you don't want that deep sonorous mellow sound just get a mandolin. 2. Most 'dolas have a scale length around 16" or greater. Your E's have to be around .0095 or smaller or they'll snap. The B's would have to be around .006! I have a sweet 16-1/2" 10 string mandola tuned C-G-D-A-E (and I need to use .0095 for those E's on this scale, .010 break after or during a serious gig or session). It covers the mandola and mandolin range, sounds and plays great. Don't be afraid of going up the neck - that's what its there for. |