#16
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It is all about the top which is solid wood in both. Laminate gets a bad rap in my opinion. Many of the custom builders are using double and triple sides for stiffness, which technically is a laminated side.
I would stick with the lighter build and solid top and not worry about the laminated back and sides, and actually it will be a more solid guitar less prone to crack down the road. Plus this is the one that sounds best to you anyway, always the biggest factor.
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PS. I love guitars! |
#17
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A thought -why not buy your guitar used and buy ones that have been played in and opened up - then you know exactly what your getting -
Typically all solid wood guitars will develop into better sounding guitars but that's not always true -at least ( if you have a tight budget ) buy guitars with a solid top -if your going new - BUT used is always a better deal -if their in good condition .
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--------------------------------- Wood things with Strings ! |
#18
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Thank you to everyone that replied! Your insight is greatly appreciated. I have a tough decision here. They both sound really good, just slightly different.
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2019 Gibson Hummingbird Standard 2023 Epiphone Riviera |
#19
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Quote:
The issue here is that the CSF series just came out this year, so the supply is not that big right now, even for new. I don't think I've seen a used one out yet, and it may be some time before you start seeing used ones for sale.
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Furch Little Jane Limited 2020 LJ-LC (Czech Rep.) Alpine/Cocobolo Furch Little Jane LJ 10-SR (Czech Rep.) Sitka/EIR Hex Sting P300 (Indonesia) Sitka/Lam.Sapele |
#20
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Bought my son a little laminate back and side parlor guitar. It sounds nice.
Doesn't "opening up" take years possibly? Buy the one you like. Sounds like it will make a nice beater/campground/porch guitar. |
#21
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I have a 1984 Martin Shenandoah D-2832, which is basically a D-28 with a solid spruce top and laminated rosewood back and sides. It's probably worth about $600-800 on the used market. For months I was looking at solid-wood bodied guitars under $1,000 to replace it, but nothing came close to the sound I get from this "plywood" guitar.
As others have said, keep the one that sounds best. BTW, I just bit the bullet and purchased an HD-28V, which does sound better than my Shenandoah, but also cost much more than the $1,000 I was planning on spending. Even so, the Shenandoah still sounds pretty good! |
#22
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play me
pick the one that says play me. labels are just, well labels. guitars are ment to be played. if you like it and you will play it, thats all that matters...enjoy.
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#23
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Quote:
BTW, I just made a "small guitar" purchase myself, and the Yamaha models you speak of were strong contenders. I also found them slightly different, but both sounded great. Had I gone with the Yamaha it would have been the laminate model just based on price alone. I ended up with a GS mini, but I could have just as well ended up with the Yamaha--it was pretty much a toss up with each having qualities I really liked. |
#24
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Thanks again for all of the very good replies!
I decided on the CSF1M (laminate b&s). Now it's time to go play the heck out it!
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2019 Gibson Hummingbird Standard 2023 Epiphone Riviera |
#25
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I'll agree but with a caveat: make sure the instrument is well made. Whether or not it has a laminate back and sides shouldn't affect the quality of the construction, but the rest of the guitar should be of good quality.
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Fingerpicking Acoustic Blues/Rag/Folk/Slide Lessons https://www.tobywalkerslessons.com/ |
#26
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Quote:
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#27
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OP, you've gotten good response with this thread......not one recommendation to try different brands, ex. Eastman, Blue Ridge, etc.
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#28
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I agree with most the things people are saying, but I would do something different.
Can't tell you what to do, but I can say what I would do in your situation - and I'll say it because it goes against the flow. I would roll the dice on the all-solid wood if it seems well built and the fit and finish are good, and you like the sound. Solid-top with lam back/sides are everywhere, and it's not hard to find a good one. But the all-solid is just at it's starting point and has greater possible upside. The potential is there for it to be truly special. I would have it set up to my liking with a bone saddle and nut, experiment with different strings and learn to massage the maximum tone I can from it. It could become a lifelong bond and signature sound for me. Good luck.
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Taylor 512ce 12-fret (cedar/mahogany grand concert) Seagull Artist Studio (spruce/rosewood dreadnought) Last edited by drumstrummer; 07-16-2018 at 09:21 AM. |
#29
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Interesting question. Having owned a classic FG-150 Red Label all laminate Yamaha circa 1971-72 that could give my Martin D18V a run for it's money, I'd say don't rule out a laminate back/sides guitar just because of that. I have enjoyed and owned many guitars that were not all solid and sometimes have preferred their tone over a solid wood guitar.
Having said all that, I tried the CSF1M at a local GC a couple weeks ago and was disappointed with it. I'd have to try another one to see if my perceptions change, but the one I tried seemed to have no definition, no clarity, but rather like all the tones and overtones were stepping all over each other and cancelling each other out. I don't know quite how to explain it... I'd like to a/b them but I don't see the CSF3M anywhere to try it out. |
#30
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I am the contrarian on the board who actually likes laminated guitars for some purposes. They are less susceptible to changes in humidity and temp, and the back and sides just don’t make much difference, if any, in sound. I would say go with what sounds and feels good to you.
I’m not really sure that guitars “open up” with age, I think maybe it is the strings seating better at the nut and bridge plate over time (ducks quickly).
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90s Martin D-28 (Algae guitar) 1979 Alvarez CY 115, #226 of 600 1977 Giannini Craviola 12 String 1997 Martin CEO-1R 1970s C.F. Mountain OOO-18 1968 Standel/Harptone E6-N 1969-70 Harptone Maple Lark L6-NC (Katrina guitar) Supreme A-12 Voyage-Air VAOM-06 Esteban Antonio Brown Model |