#1
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Replacing Taylor 114ce Saddle Questions
OK I bought a used 114ce and the saddle looks altered and the action is too low for me. Also the spacing between the strings looks off. Either way, I want to replace the saddle. What would you recommend? The same stack Taylor micarta saddle or bone or something else?
Also, can I do this myself? Do they come at the proper height (like a new guitar would) or would I need to sand it down some? Is this something I should leave to my luthier? I've never replaced a saddle before.
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Gear: PRS Hollowbody II Piezo, Martin HPL 000, PRS Angelus A60E, Martin 000-15M |
#2
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Taylor uses pre-cast Tusq saddles with B-string compensation for the most part, and those are widely available as new parts. Some lowering will likely be needed. 114's are noted for being fairly bright, and bone would likely just reinforce that tendency. FWIW, I have never replaced the saddle or nut on anything purely for tone "improvements", only when they wear out or I went too far in slotting or sanding. But more power to those who do change for tone.
If you want to lower the action, determine the amount of lowering you need at the 12th fret and sand off twice that much saddle height. Example: reduce action at 12th fret by 1/32", sand off 2/32" = 1/16". Work slowly, or be prepared to do it repeatedly! Patience is your friend..... For pickup performance and best acoustic tone, the bottom should remain as flat as possible. I sand against an old mirror, being very careful to keep the saddle blank perfectly vertical. It isn't rocket surgery, so give it a shot. I always leave the original part alone and start with a fresh blank -- makes it easy to restore the original condition. You might also want to try a shim first. Many techs use a piece or two of paper label stuck to the bottom of the existing saddle and trimmed with an X-acto knife. |
#3
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Where is the best place to order a Taylor saddle?
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Gear: PRS Hollowbody II Piezo, Martin HPL 000, PRS Angelus A60E, Martin 000-15M |
#4
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https://www.taylorguitars.com/taylor...addle-acoustic
Stewmac has them, too, but their shipping $ is too high. I'd get it from Taylor. |
#5
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Quote:
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Gear: PRS Hollowbody II Piezo, Martin HPL 000, PRS Angelus A60E, Martin 000-15M |
#6
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If you have picky ears like me and off tune notes throw you off, its best to do your own saddle work and intonate to your guitar specifically along with your given action.
Tusq blanks should be available at your big guitar stores- try the PQ-9000-00. Or else bone works fine too, though it's a bit tougher to work with. Its fun if enjoy this kind of stuff. Order multiple blanks bc it's a learning experience! Also, I don't think you can change your string spacing at the saddle, unless you are doing some advanced techniques to cut notches at measured points in your saddle.
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The past: Yamaha AC3R (2016) Rose, Eastman AC822ce-FF (2018) The present:Taylor 614-ce (2018) Clara, Washburn Dread (2012) The future:Furch Rainbow GC-CR (2020)Renata? |
#7
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While OP is ordering his replacement saddle from the mother ship, I suggest he ask about Taylor's recommended procedures to alter action height. Taylors don't get maintained like other guitars. I think, and 'think' is the word, that adjusting action height by resetting the neck with different shims than those installed is the Taylor method. Not shaving the saddle. Doesn't take much time or effort at all, at a Taylor authorized repair center who have access to the shim sets.
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#8
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Quote:
__________________
Gear: PRS Hollowbody II Piezo, Martin HPL 000, PRS Angelus A60E, Martin 000-15M |
#9
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The saddle will not affect the string spacing.
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Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" Taylor GC7, GA3-12, SB2-C, SB2-Cp...... Ibanez AVC-11MHx , AC-240 |
#10
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Put a caliper/ruler on the middle of the E and measure to the middle of the e and see how many /16ths you have. If I'm wrong, it will measure 2 3/16 and you'll have to replace the saddle to raise the action. If I'm right, it will measure closer to 2 4/16 (more likely) or even 2 5/16 (less likely, given neck width). If so, to restore higher action, simply loosen the strings a turn, lift them out of the notches so they're sitting on top of the saddle, each in a straight line from the pin to the nut, then retune. It's possible one or more strings (more likely the ones nearest the center) will be too close to their notches and drop back in with vigorous strumming, in which case you'd have to change the saddle, but giving this a try may buy you some time before doing that, or even eliminate the need to do so. |
#11
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Right, it shouldn't. However the person who had this guitar before me had someone file grooves into the saddle from the top, so now the strings fit into the grooves. Yikes!
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Gear: PRS Hollowbody II Piezo, Martin HPL 000, PRS Angelus A60E, Martin 000-15M |
#12
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not sure what the original owner was thinking.
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Gear: PRS Hollowbody II Piezo, Martin HPL 000, PRS Angelus A60E, Martin 000-15M |
#13
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Ha! Looks like he wanted/needed the extra spacing just between G and B, then notched the rest to maintain consistent action (string height). Probably got tired of hooking his index fingertip/nail on the B string. Agree that it's better to start fresh on this one. I do wish Taylor offered 2 1/4 spacing!
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#14
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Oh well...easy enough fix (I hope)
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Gear: PRS Hollowbody II Piezo, Martin HPL 000, PRS Angelus A60E, Martin 000-15M |
#15
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However, that saddle needs to be replaced. Anything else will be chasing your tail, action-wise. You can try a new Tusq saddle first, and f that fixes the problem, then you are done. If not, time to take it to a tech for further "action". |