#16
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Large, small, medium are irrelevant. Don't randomly adjust the truss rod. Define a target amount of relief and adjust the truss rod as much, or as little, as necessary to get it from where it is now to that target. For most players, strings and styles a target of between about .005" and .010" is desirable. Some like a little more, some a little less. Feel free to experiment with the amount of relief on your guitars to find what YOU like best. Then you have a defined target, at least on that instrument, with those strings for your style of playing. This isn't rocket surgery. It's so simple, I'm not sure what there is to debate about it. |
#17
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Truss rod purists say to adjust it first, then and only then address action - for a reason. It's undeniable that adjusting the truss rod either way - more relief or less relief - has an effect on action height. It just does. So if you have too much relief and slightly high action, adjusting the truss rod is the correct step to take to fix the problem. It's only when the truss rod is correct that you look at other steps to address playability. I look at guitar setup as a continuum - it starts at the nut and works it's way down the neck, all parts affect all others, nothing stands alone. You need the nut, the frets, the truss rod, the saddle, the intonation to all be right, at the same time. If adjusting the truss rod is the right thing to do, then do it! And don't apologise...
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Brian Evans Around 15 archtops, electrics, resonators, a lap steel, a uke, a mandolin, some I made, some I bought, some kinda showed up and wouldn't leave. Tatamagouche Nova Scotia. |
#18
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it's pretty simple actually. Just look down the neck, knowing what you're looking for, and adjust as needed.
not rocket science. That said, I can feel it... immediately.... I'm sure many people on this board can. |
#19
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#20
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I found this to be true also. I adjust relief, nut and then saddle.
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Barry My SoundCloud page Avalon L-320C, Guild D-120, Martin D-16GT, McIlroy A20, Pellerin SJ CW Cordobas - C5, Fusion 12 Orchestra, C12, Stage Traditional Alvarez AP66SB, Seagull Folk Aria {Johann Logy}: |
#21
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Yup, I used to give my Taylor a 1/4 turn during the winter and then turn it back 1/4 in the summer.
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#22
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Yes. I've always had instruments where you Loosen UP (counter clockwise) to add more relief, and Tighten DOWN (clockwise) to flatten the fingerboard… Perhaps there are some built other than that. |
#23
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We need Bruce and Colin from Australia to chime in here - I’m pretty certain that the Coriolis Effect enters into it south of the equator, as well.... whm |
#24
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No toilet talk allowed…right? |
#25
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Nobody advocated randomly adjusting the truss rod. I have made small adjustments to tighten or loosen the truss rod between winter and summer. For me it gets the action exactly when I want it to compensate for the weather and humidity changes that happen when the seasons change. |