#31
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The mold is simply a reference for me, not an item to use to force the sides to conform to a shape, have posted these photos previously
To start with After back and forth on the hand bender Finished
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#32
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Now that's what I'm talkin' about!
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#33
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Gluing on the end blocks.
A mold is handy to not make a mistake. The above guitar has one side that is longer than the other. Cut at the wrong pencil mark and the one bout is wider than the other. Oops. Not enough that anyone would notice unless they measured. Same goes for the alignment of the end blocks. If the mold is made accurately the end blocks will be parallel to each other. I have found a simple way of ensuring mine are if I build onto the top. Lot of different ways of building, no real right or wrong.
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Fred |
#34
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Printer I saw you post about that method a while back and tried it and found that it works great. I've since gone back to my normal way of doing it but may try that out again.
Do you have a dedicated post (for lack of a better word) for each model guitar you use? Or do you just grab a piece of scrap and cut it to size for each one? Since I use a bolt on neck I was thinking of making a post with a threaded insert for the head block and maybe just a screw for the tail. |
#35
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Quote:
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Fred |
#36
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Quote:
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#37
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This one was a ukulele, I did leave the center piece in while gluing on the one side with the clamps compressing the front to back. The second side I think I did without it to be able to reach down far enough. I will keep your suggestion in mind for the next one.
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Fred |