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#1
10-06-2022, 09:32 AM
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Carbon fiber rods vs Carbon fiber D-Tube for Kay Kraft Deluxe
Can anyone advise me on the pros and cons using either carbon fiber rods or a cf D-Tube (which I just learned about) in having someone repair the bowed neck on my old archtop? It’s a mid 1930’s Kay Kraft Deluxe K2 Spanish style in 000 size. It has one of those Zorzi adjustable neck joints (see photo) which I’m guessing, though it’s designed for neck angle, it could help with adjusting the neck relief in a way if needed since I don’t think I’ll be having a truss rod added. I read somewhere that the D-Tube could potentially add a slight hollow ringing sound when instrument is played...any opinions on that as well would be appreciated.
Thanks for any thoughts on this. IMG_1665070066.916777.jpgIMG_1665070110.480872.jpgIMG_1665070123.731227.jpg
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Martin 000-18 Norman Blake 1997 Seagull Rosewood Custom Shop Model Brunner Basic Outdoor Guitar Eastman T386SB Aria Sinsonido AS-100C/SPL (customized to steel string) Mid 1930’s Kay Kraft Deluxe K2 archtop Seagull S12 converted to 6 string lap slide Takamine TF740FS 2008 Pono PGKC (flamed Hawaiian Koa 0 cutaway) Last edited by Brushwood; 10-07-2022 at 07:20 AM. 
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#2
10-06-2022, 01:22 PM
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The D-tube is 'way stiffer than any of the rods I've seen, or even than any three or four. With one of those in place you can pretty much consider the neck as 'rigid' for structural purposes. You'll need to build in whatever relief you want.
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#3
10-06-2022, 02:00 PM
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The Zorzi adjusts neck angle only. It cannot alter relief.
I would stick with carbon fiber rod(s); they should be plenty stiff enough. I have straightened these old necks simply by removing the fingerboard and regluing it using a curved caul. I use hot hide glue for this.
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#4
10-07-2022, 12:23 AM
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The stiffness of a hollow rod is more than the stiffness of a same weight solid rod. The surface of the rod gives more stiffness than the center. The drawback is that a hollow rod can splinter, but glued into a neck that is not a problem. The wide D shaped rod is way stiffer than a traditional rectangular rod of the same weight.
I use 10x10 mm square rods with an 8 mm hole in my parlor restorations. I fill the hole with a birch round rod, it just feels like a thing to do. It will secure the carbon rod from splintering and get rid of any "acoustic chamber" in the neck. These are common and cheap (used for drones and model planes), light and stiffer than a solid square rod of the same weight.
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#5
10-07-2022, 07:14 AM
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Thank you all for your informative and interesting replies. Now I have to decide how much to spend on getting this cool old spruce topped, birch bodied, ladder braced guitar playable again. I know it was loved and played a lot in its day because of the neckwear, frets and the fretboard indentation from the fingertips and would love to bring it back to life.
Bruce
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Martin 000-18 Norman Blake 1997 Seagull Rosewood Custom Shop Model Brunner Basic Outdoor Guitar Eastman T386SB Aria Sinsonido AS-100C/SPL (customized to steel string) Mid 1930’s Kay Kraft Deluxe K2 archtop Seagull S12 converted to 6 string lap slide Takamine TF740FS 2008 Pono PGKC (flamed Hawaiian Koa 0 cutaway)
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#6
10-07-2022, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
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#7
10-09-2022, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
I sent you a private message.
__________________
Martin 000-18 Norman Blake 1997 Seagull Rosewood Custom Shop Model Brunner Basic Outdoor Guitar Eastman T386SB Aria Sinsonido AS-100C/SPL (customized to steel string) Mid 1930’s Kay Kraft Deluxe K2 archtop Seagull S12 converted to 6 string lap slide Takamine TF740FS 2008 Pono PGKC (flamed Hawaiian Koa 0 cutaway)
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