Fingerboard Oil For Ebony?

[gmel555]

Originally Posted by vindibona1

What I find works well is bore oil, made for wood-wind instruments. I have a bottle on hand for my daughter's piccolo (which I think is ebony). I've used it on rosewood and ebony fingerboards and trust it because it is made for fine musical instruments. A small bottle should last years.

https://www.amazon.com/Roche-Thomas-...words=bore+oil

I've used the same oil for years on ebony, rosewood and pau ferro. First bought it at the Martin Factory store during a visit/tour. If Martin recommended it, no worries.

[Alnicol]

Originally Posted by gmel555

I've used the same oil for years on ebony, rosewood and pau ferro. First bought it at the Martin Factory store during a visit/tour. If Martin recommended it, no worries.

Dr Ducks axe wax .

[AndrewG]

You don't actually need to use oil (I use Dunlop 65 lemon oil), for anything other than cleaning. Your skin chemistry is quite adequate for keeping fingerboards 'lubricated' on rosewood. Ebony, as dense as it is, doesn't need anything to lube it.
Too much of the stuff can be detrimental seeping into the fret slots. A couple of drops on a clean rag, once or twice a year to clean off accumulated gunk is quite sufficient.

[SalFromChatham]

When I took my J50 to Brothers Music a few years ago for a tune up, new pickup, tuners, and fret dressing, I watched him use 3-1 oil on the fretboard.if it’s good enough for those dudes it’s good enough for me.

Ps a little goes a long way.

[AndrewG]

Originally Posted by themissal

When I took my J50 to Brothers Music a few years ago for a tune up, new pickup, tuners, and fret dressing, I watched him use 3-1 oil on the fretboard.if it’s good enough for those dudes it’s good enough for me.

Ps a little goes a long way.

Hmm, I wouldn't use it on my furniture let alone a guitar! I believe Martin used it to gloss up fretboards prior to sale, but as far as I know they use lemon oil now.

[Silly Moustache]

I use "Regency Gold (designed for Antique furniture and woodwork - continas nothing "nasty", BUT I MUSYT offer a word of warning.

Sure it is delightful to see a nive jet black ebony or shiny rosewood fretboard and bridge - but PLEASE - DON'T let whatever you use soak in!

Allowing such fluids to seep in under the frets can cause nasty issues! with loosening frets and diminishing the woods around them.

I apply my stuff by keeping a cotten duster which has been soaked in the stuff but allowed to dry down until "slightly" damp.

I wipe my fretboard and bridge with it and IMMEDIATELY wipe all fluid off with a microfibre cloth.
The finish is great.

I use the same stuff for the rest of the guitar, but don't worry so much about timing on finished areas.

I've been doing this for twenty years and just started on my second bottle!

[musicman1951]

Originally Posted by varmonter

ive used a bit of Watco oil on my ebony fretboards and bridges
for years. One can will last a lifetime.

I use it for woodworking. Nice combination of varnish and driers. I don't use it on guitars.

You should know that the driers will eventually work very well in the can when there is enough air. You might want to transfer it to a smaller container at that point.

I'd also give it 24 hours to dry before re-stringing.

[IndyHD28]

Originally Posted by 29er

I have used Petros fingerboard oil on all my rosewood board guitars for years and it's worked well for me. I now own a Taylor 614ce with ebony board & bridge. Can I use the same product on ebony? I typically treat the rosewood boards maybe once a year but the ebony on my Taylor doesn't seem to be as dried out as the rosewood board instruments. Thanks!

Since you specifically mentioned Taylor, I thought you’d be interested in Bob Taylor’s answer to a letter about Ebony....

“At Taylor Guitars, our first coat of oil that is applied to a guitar fingerboard and bridge is linseed oil.We use it because it sets in the wood, whereas mineral oils evaporate. This first coat provides a long-lasting base that enables a player to then use fretboard oils that are available on the market with- out building up a finish, because they, too, evaporate. We don’t recommend that customers use linseed oil because only one coat is needed, and we do that at Taylor. Linseed oil wets the wood, and since it sets and doesn’t evaporate, it darkens the wood, not as a stain, but in the way that water darkens wood while it remains wet. So the colors just black- en. It requires almost severe amounts of color in the raw state to equal any color in the linseed-oiled state. This is some- thing I wish other manufacturers would believe and adopt, because when our Crelicam partner, Madinter, sells ebony wood from Crelicam, they are constantly asked for the blackest of wood, of which there is little. But at Taylor we know that the less-black wood can be used, oiled and also satisfy customers.”

[Arthur Blake]

Originally Posted by AndrewG

Your skin chemistry is quite adequate for keeping fingerboards 'lubricated' ... Ebony, as dense as it is, doesn't need anything to lube it.
Too much of the stuff can be detrimental seeping into the fret slots.

Used to use Music Nomad fretboard product and liked it, but now, with a better guitar, I use nothing.

Even though I wash my hands before playing it's inevitable that finger oils get on the strings and fingerboard.

I use a borderless microfiber towel to wipe down under the strings and kind of buff the fretboard after playing. That keeps the frets clean, and the fingerboard from needed anything else.

[rmp]

Originally Posted by themissal

When I took my J50 to Brothers Music a few years ago for a tune up, new pickup, tuners, and fret dressing, I watched him use 3-1 oil on the fretboard.if it’s good enough for those dudes it’s good enough for me.

Ps a little goes a long way.

thanks for the tip Sal, this seems to be a place to stay away from!!!!

[jschmitz54]

From Martin Guitars care and cleaning FAQ

Martin Guitar does not recommend using lemon oil on the fingerboard. The acids in lemon oil break down the finish of your guitar. It may also speed the corrosion of the frets and decrease the life of your strings.

[jemartin]

I recently came across the same question after buying a new Taylor 358 12 string recently. I have used several good oils on my guitars over the years, but after checking with Taylor, I found that they recommend using their brand of fretboard oil on their ebony fretboards and bridges. I own 2 other Taylors and have used their fretboard oil on them... and it works good. I am not saying that it is better than any other good fretboard oil out there... it's just what they recommend.


"Fretboard Oil
Taylor Guitars Fretboard Oil is formulated using a complex mixture of the finest ultra-refined rare oils to clean, condition and protect your fretboard. 100% free of lemon extracts, waxes, petroleum distillates, detergents and water. It leaves your fretboard looking new, playing great and feeling smooth, never sticky or tacky."

[Taylor007]

Originally Posted by Alnicol

Dr Ducks axe wax .

I’ve got some of this. I use it maybe once every 2-3years. Very sparingly. Careful to never let the product get between the frets & the wood.

[Steadfastly]

Originally Posted by fitness1

One thing that doesn't get mentioned very often (it's always what to use) - make sure you let it soak in for a while, then RUB IT OUT thoroughly. I use the inside of a cotton sock (the terrycloth side) and then also rub/clean along the frets on both sides.....you'd be surprised the stuff built up in there.

This way, the organics don't get onto the fresh sets of strings you are putting on.

Great point to remember!

[Atomnimity]

This is very close to what I do every string change. It takes about 5 minutes. I use the boiled linseed oil, 0000 steel wool and Guitar Detailer for the body.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=plU27QJBKn8