Router Speed?

[Nahil.R]

So I have reached the point in my build where I need to flush trim the overhang and route the binding channels.

My understanding is to try and use the least amount of cutting area to get the job done so should I use a few passes to get to target depth / width?

Also, what speed do you run your routers at for cutting the binding channels?

I've got a Makita 1 1/4 HP that runs from 10,000 - 30,000 RPM. and am using the Stewmac downward shear (6 degree) bit and have their bearing set as well.

Thanks in advance.

Nahil.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by Nahil.R

My understanding is to try and use the least amount of cutting area to get the job done so should I use a few passes to get to target depth / width?

I'm not sure what least amount of cutting area means. Most people do it in one pass, full width and depth. Rabbets for purflings are usually additional passes.

Be mindful of grain direction, particularly when routing rabbets in the top.

Also, what speed do you run your routers at for cutting the binding channels?

Unless you get burning, highest speed the router produces.

[Nahil.R]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

I'm not sure what least amount of cutting area means. Most people do it in one pass, full width and depth. Rabbets for purflings are usually additional passes.

Be mindful of grain direction, particularly when routing rabbets in the top.



Unless you get burning, highest speed the router produces.

Thanks Charles as per usual for your advice.

You are correct that I was thinking of cutting the rabbet in multiple passes.

I guess it's gonna be one pass, high speed, and watching out for grain direction!

Cheers!

Nahil.

[phavriluk]

effective router speed - - - which the work sees - - - depends also on the tool bit diameter, so that rpm is just one component.

[Howard Klepper]

Cut by moving the router downhill--from the widest areas of the bouts toward the waist or toward the centerline. Find some information on the net about when and how to use a "climbing" cut so you understand how that helps you to avoid splitting or chipping out the wood. Speed is not all that critical, but I would use about 20,000 rpm with that bit.

The big issue with cutting binding channels is that the arching of the top and back affect the angle at which the bit cuts. You want the axis of the bit to stay parallel to the sides. That is what all the binding routing jigs are intended to achieve.

[Nahil.R]

Originally Posted by Howard Klepper

Cut by moving the router downhill--from the widest areas of the bouts toward the waist or toward the centerline. Find some information on the net about when and how to use a "climbing" cut so you understand how that helps you to avoid splitting or chipping out the wood. Speed is not all that critical, but I would use about 20,000 rpm with that bit.

The big issue with cutting binding channels is that the arching of the top and back affect the angle at which the bit cuts. You want the axis of the bit to stay parallel to the sides. That is what all the binding routing jigs are intended to achieve.

Thanks Howard!