#16
|
|||
|
|||
And definitely do not whack the end pin with anything in an attempt to drive the pin home.
__________________
Neal A few nice ones, a few beaters, and a few I should probably sell... |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
Santa Cruz does not do plastic pins - they definitely fit smoothly, and are properly tapered to fit - a light whack with a 2 or 3 oz rubber mallet will do no harm - a tiny spot of low-strength water soluble glue is not a big deal either, but shouldn’t be necessary -
Just call the shop - they’ll give you the best info -
__________________
More than a few Santa Cruz’s, a few Sexauers, a Patterson, a Larrivee, a Cumpiano, and a Klepper!! |
#18
|
||||
|
||||
Do not whack an end-pin with anything - that’s the route to a split end-block. When you insert the pin, the correct method is to twist it as you push it home by hand. If it’s still loose, either (1) build up the hole with glue, allow to fully dry, then ream out to fit, or (2) build up the pin shaft with glue, allow to fully dry, then sand the pin to fit. My personal preference is (1).
The usual disclaimers apply......IMHO, YMMV etc.
__________________
John Brook ‘Lamorna’ OM (European Spruce/EIR) (2019) Lowden F-23 (Red Cedar/Claro Walnut) (2017) Martin D-18 (2012) Martin HD-28V (2010) Fender Standard Strat (2017-MIM) |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
How recently did Martin stop using a tapered end pin hole? They've always been tapered to my knowledge, and they would supply a tapered pin to fit it properly. Taylor, on the other hand, has long been doing a straight bore, and an aluminum threaded end pin with a T-nut. Lowden also has been doing a straight bore, but with a wooden pin as well. Both Taylor and Lowden also were doing a 1/2" diameter hole to negate the 'I don't want to drill a hole in my guitar to put in an end-pin jack' nonsense. Regards, Howard Emerson
__________________
My New Website! |
#20
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
https://www.acousticguitarforum.com/...d.php?t=323327 |
#21
|
||||
|
||||
Since 2004, I’ve bought five brand-new Martins - D-35, J-40, OM-28 Marquis, HD-28V, and D-18. Although the bridge-pins and end-pins all had a 5-deg taper, none had tapered bridge-pin or end-pin holes, all were straight-drilled. Other people with considerable Martin-knowledge have told me that they stopped tapering endpin and bridge-pin holes many years ago, and that must be at least sixteen years by my personal experience.
__________________
John Brook ‘Lamorna’ OM (European Spruce/EIR) (2019) Lowden F-23 (Red Cedar/Claro Walnut) (2017) Martin D-18 (2012) Martin HD-28V (2010) Fender Standard Strat (2017-MIM) |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Good advice for antique or vintage (or just older) instruments, and maybe for lower end brands, still. And yes, all you really should need to do is twist and push it in -
__________________
More than a few Santa Cruz’s, a few Sexauers, a Patterson, a Larrivee, a Cumpiano, and a Klepper!! |
#23
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
John Brook ‘Lamorna’ OM (European Spruce/EIR) (2019) Lowden F-23 (Red Cedar/Claro Walnut) (2017) Martin D-18 (2012) Martin HD-28V (2010) Fender Standard Strat (2017-MIM) |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Thank you for enlightening me, and I would never contradict Howard Klepper! Amazing to me that Martin would not just drill the 15/32" or 1/2" hole and be done with it. Supplying a tapered end pin with a straight hole that forces the buyer to force it in is just moronic. I'm sure they have some kind of cosmic rationale, to paraphrase my former employer. HE
__________________
My New Website! |
#25
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
John Brook ‘Lamorna’ OM (European Spruce/EIR) (2019) Lowden F-23 (Red Cedar/Claro Walnut) (2017) Martin D-18 (2012) Martin HD-28V (2010) Fender Standard Strat (2017-MIM) |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
Same logic, I guess, they use for justifying ramming tapered bridge pins in straight holes.
|
#27
|
||||
|
||||
Exactly! But there are many out there that just don't understand the idea behind a slotted bridge/unslotted pins and refuse to entertain doing it to or having it done to their guitar because "why didn't Martin do it that way??" Time=Money plain and simple.
|
#28
|
||||
|
||||
Right on the button, Uncle! It’s all about the bottom line.
__________________
John Brook ‘Lamorna’ OM (European Spruce/EIR) (2019) Lowden F-23 (Red Cedar/Claro Walnut) (2017) Martin D-18 (2012) Martin HD-28V (2010) Fender Standard Strat (2017-MIM) |
#29
|
|||
|
|||
After looking through the replies I tried the suggestion of a few turns of plumbers tape around the endpin. Worked perfectly.
Sincere thanks to everyone who replied and helped me avoid problems I wouldn’t have otherwise suspected were lurking. AGF rocks. |
#30
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Which is not good. But you won't risk anything if you lightly glue the endpin in its hole. As for wrapping the endpin in electrician's tape or other kinds of tape, the problem there is that with regular use those layers of tape can suddenly compress and then this improvised force fit isn't fitting any longer. How do I know this? Yes, you guessed it, I learned it the hard way. So I can't recommend that technique, based on a near-disaster that I only narrowly averted. Two dots of white glue aren't permanent - it's not as though I'm recommending that you slather the endpin with epoxy or superglue. But that slight amount of white glue there can help keep the endpin from popping out when you least expect it. Hope this helps. Wade Hampton Miller |