#31
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I had a very similar problem with a guitar someone loaned me. I changed strings and then had fret buzz on the low E all the way up the fret. Then i did exactly what Wade suggested and tried a slightly heavier gauge low E string. Voila. Fret buzz was gone. A quick, but not permanent, fix.
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Barry 1969 Martin D-35 (Brazilian Rosewood/Sitka Spruce) 2002 Taylor 355 12-string (Sapele/Sitka Spruce) 2014 Taylor 914ce (Indian Rosewood/Sitka Spruce) 2016 Breedlove Oregon Concert (Myrtlewood) 2018 Taylor GS Mini (Walnut/Spruce) 2021 Taylor 326ce (Urban Ash/Mahogany) 2021 Kevin Ryan Paradiso (The Tree/Sinker Redwood) 2022 KaAloha KTM-10RP Ukulele (Koa) |
#32
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The usual disclaimers apply......IMHO, YMMV etc.
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John Brook ‘Lamorna’ OM (European Spruce/EIR) (2019) Lowden F-23 (Red Cedar/Claro Walnut) (2017) Martin D-18 (2012) Martin HD-28V (2010) Fender Standard Strat (2017-MIM) |
#33
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That it behaves differently with new strings than it did with old strings indicates, obviously, that something has changed. It might be as simple as the act of changing strings, altered the nut, saddle, or how the string sits in/on either, or something else. If it buzzes open to 18th fret, you can probably rule out the nut. You can probably rule out uneven frets. You could look at back-buzz: not likely for all of those frets and open, but possible. The next most-likely common denominator is the saddle. A loose brace is possible, though you stated you inspected them. An unseated ball end of the string is possible, though you stated you already explored that. A loose nut or washer at the tuning machines is a possibility. Something hanging inside the guitar is a possibility - such as a wire - but you state you have already inspected the interior. A long shot is loose fret ends. Play one of the offending notes while pressing on the fret at which it buzzes with the end of a pencil eraser. If that doesn't make a difference, it isn't the cause. You mention changing the bridge pins. When you changed the strings, you interacted with the tuning machines, the bridge pins, the saddle and the nut. If you took all of the strings off at the same time - I usually do - you "de-tensioned" the instrument, something it hasn't had done in some years. Try swapping the position of the bridge pins - use a different pin in the 6th hole. |
#34
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#35
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altering the Relief is not the correct approach to resolve fret buzz{especially if the cause is a high/low fret height!]
The frets ''May'' have risen caused by Temperature fluctuation[s].whilst unplayed etc etc. Replace saddle with a correct version[But this WILL affect the string height=SET UP REQUIRED. Changing the string gauge does NOT...change the string height![it can't!Only the string Tension changes etc etc -String height is governed by the slot depth[s] & the saddle height which remains 'Static' unless deliberately made to be lower=FILED=Set up etc. Many use 10's on acoustics.Whatever suits etc.[Depends upon fret finger strength etc steers the string gauge preference ] Heavier gauge strings have a wider dispersion than a lighter gauge string!-hence why..EG the 6th string is all ways left a fraction higher compared to the 1st string[its height] at the nut & Saddle.One can see it=LOOK at the inner face of the nut etc. Have the gtr SET UP to suit & choose the strings 'you' prefer. |
#36
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Followup
I put 11s on and no change.
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#37
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Once you fret a string, but for back-buzz, the nut is pretty much irrelevant.
What that should lead you towards is a saddle issue. Without photos, I have no idea what your "irregular" saddle arrangement is. Best of luck with it. |
#38
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It's worked for me in the past. After reading the op's replies I don't think it'll help in this situation.
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“Good grief” -Charlie “Chuck” Brown |
#39
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Whatever the string diameter, the bottom of the string rests on two fixed points - the bottom of the nut-slot and the top of the saddle - so, assuming no change in relief and sufficient clearance in the nut slot, there will be exactly the same distance from the top of the frets to the bottom of the string whatever the string’s diameter. Also, if the change is, as per your suggestion, to a lighter string and, unlikely though it may be, the relief changes, it will be a reduction in relief meaning that the bottom of the string will be brought closer to the frets - result, more buzzing. A heavier string, not a lighter one, is more likely to bring about the result you’re suggesting.
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John Brook ‘Lamorna’ OM (European Spruce/EIR) (2019) Lowden F-23 (Red Cedar/Claro Walnut) (2017) Martin D-18 (2012) Martin HD-28V (2010) Fender Standard Strat (2017-MIM) |
#40
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Now I’m trying to figure out why it’s worked for me in the past.
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“Good grief” -Charlie “Chuck” Brown |
#41
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UPDATE as of 07/10
This feels like one of those things where someone mods something (way back when) and it works til it doesn't, and once you pull it apart to fix it the new thing doesn't work and you can't get it back with the old setup. Had a couple cars with carbs like that, years ago.
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#42
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Tribal - then try changing either the carburetor gasket, or the accelerator pump diaphragm. Bingo!
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OM-28 Marquis (2005) Kenny Hill Player (nylon) Gibson AJ (2012) Rogue Resonator (kindling) |
#43
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I need to find a reverse muffler bearing and some blinker fluid and I'm dun.
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Tags |
gibson acoustic, j-45 deluxe, string buzz |
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