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  #16  
Old 06-23-2020, 09:56 AM
John Arnold John Arnold is offline
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Both slipping the block and sawing the neck off involve cosmetic issues that would require much more finish work than a conventional dovetail reset. That is why I generally avoid them. Guitars that are in good cosmetic condition are not good candidates for a poor man's reset, IMHO.
The OP mentions putting the guitar on Reverb as-is, which implies little or no sentimental attachment.
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  #17  
Old 06-23-2020, 12:20 PM
redir redir is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bisco1 View Post
What about another method, "slipping the block"? Loosening the back from the neck block and the back kerfing for a little distance on either side of the block, slide the neck back a little to adjust the angle, then reglue. I think they used to refer to it as a "California neck reset". Reasonably easy to do. I think it was pretty popular before steaming the neck off and trimming the neck heel became the method of choice. Bill
I did it once on a classical guitar and I will NEVER do it again. It's not at all reasonable easy to do. For this particular Yamaha it would be easier to reset it the normal way. That guitar most likely has a dovetail and was glued with HHG.
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  #18  
Old 06-23-2020, 05:28 PM
bisco1 bisco1 is offline
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I have only done one "slip the block" reset, and that was a number of years ago. As I recall, it was fairly easy, but it also had an unbound back. The reason I thought it might be a possibility is that, if I remember correctly, those early Yamaha's were not put together with HHG, but either epoxy or some other non-cooperative glue. Is that true? I agree with John, steaming them apart is the best method, if possible. Bill
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  #19  
Old 06-24-2020, 03:34 AM
mirwa mirwa is offline
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Have done every form of neck reset.

The yamahas are good candidates for traditiinal neck removal and refitment.

As the truss rod ends in the heel, cutting the heel will work just fine as well. I find guitars where the truss rod is adjusted from inside the sound hole to be bad candidates for cutting

Whilst i like slipping backs, I would not do it on a yamaha, those old red label girls are typically plywood bodys and it can be a real mess getting them seperated.

Actually cutting the neck off an old classical from the 60s tomorrow (converting to a full bolt on neck), its got a spanish heel with an action height of 200 thou at 12th
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  #20  
Old 06-25-2020, 01:35 AM
Playguitar Playguitar is offline
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I have heard about people using heat and pressure to bend a neck instead of doing a reset. I am not sure of the details, maybe someone here can provide more info.
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  #21  
Old 06-25-2020, 02:01 AM
mirwa mirwa is offline
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Originally Posted by Playguitar View Post
I have heard about people using heat and pressure to bend a neck instead of doing a reset. I am not sure of the details, maybe someone here can provide more info.
That is actually a method for adding relief to a neck that has backbow, not for resetting a neck angle unfortunatley

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  #22  
Old 06-26-2020, 01:07 AM
Playguitar Playguitar is offline
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This video shows how to straighten the neck with heat and pressure. In the comments he says you can add or remove relief depending on how the pressure is applied he also mentions steam helps (in the comments).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVwFGQO8rVw
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  #23  
Old 06-28-2020, 08:45 AM
John Arnold John Arnold is offline
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Neck angle and neck relief are separate issues, with different corrective procedures. In other words, if a reset is indicated, changing relief is not the answer.
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  #24  
Old 06-28-2020, 12:22 PM
surveyor surveyor is offline
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I cut the neck off an old FG70 after trying to steam it off. That was not hide glue. Also if you cut too far toward the fretboard at least on this one, the truss rod runs into the dovetail a little ways. I cut through it with a hacksaw.

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  #25  
Old 06-28-2020, 02:13 PM
Martin_F Martin_F is offline
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Why not try this first? Correcting the geometry of the guitar would be faster and cost nothing, or very little, to try:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UTVzGM1Znv8



I think it looks like an interesting way to do it. For a guitar that has been pulled out of shape, it is possible to pull it back into shape. You might just have to repeat this procedure every so often.

Before everyone says its impossible, what would be the harm in trying it? hahaha..

Martin
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  #26  
Old 06-29-2020, 05:09 AM
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I wouldn´t suggest sawing off the neck. I always get goosebumbs thinking of that gruesome method.

Good luck!
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  #27  
Old 06-29-2020, 05:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin_F View Post
Why not try this first? Correcting the geometry of the guitar would be faster and cost nothing, or very little, to try:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UTVzGM1Znv8



I think it looks like an interesting way to do it. For a guitar that has been pulled out of shape, it is possible to pull it back into shape. You might just have to repeat this procedure every so often.

Before everyone says its impossible, what would be the harm in trying it? hahaha..

Martin

It would have been more convincing if he showed a before and after angle shot. But it would be worth a try on a guitar that is not worth the cost of a traditional neck reset.
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  #28  
Old 06-29-2020, 05:58 AM
mirwa mirwa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin_F View Post
Why not try this first? Correcting the geometry of the guitar would be faster and cost nothing, or very little, to try: ...........
Martin
The theory is sound, a neck reset is traditionally needed as the sides adjacent to the sound hole start to fold up, stretching and tensioning it back to shape is sound in thought,

however

A reason exists for why the sides and top started to fold, stretching it back to the starting point just means it will start to fold back up over time.

The advantage of doing a traditional reset where you take the neck off and put it back on at the desired angle is the sides and top have settled into that position over many years, it is extremely unlikely they will collapse further as they have found a point where they can take that string tension

Steve
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  #29  
Old 06-29-2020, 08:35 AM
Martin_F Martin_F is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mirwa View Post
The theory is sound, a neck reset is traditionally needed as the sides adjacent to the sound hole start to fold up, stretching and tensioning it back to shape is sound in thought,

however

A reason exists for why the sides and top started to fold, stretching it back to the starting point just means it will start to fold back up over time.

The advantage of doing a traditional reset where you take the neck off and put it back on at the desired angle is the sides and top have settled into that position over many years, it is extremely unlikely they will collapse further as they have found a point where they can take that string tension

Steve
I do agree that this is true. However, many guitars have needed multiple neck resets over the years. At some point, you are starting to distort the guitar quite a bit.

Disclaimer: I have not tried this! hahaha. But, if I had a guitar that needed a neck reset I would try it. If you could get 4 or 5 years between stretching the guitar out like this, then it would be well worth it.

I think the key to this procedure is to make sure most of the guitar is filled with cloths, as he notes in the video. You don't want the steam getting where it's not supposed to be.

On an older cheaper guitar is the perfect place to try! This would be much less invasive than cutting the neck off! Plus that, I believe your chances of good success would be much higher.

Whoever wants to do it just has to find a way to make a good steamer. I have heard many have good luck with using an old pressure cooker as a boiler and connecting some tubes up to it.

Martin
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  #30  
Old 06-29-2020, 08:37 AM
MC5C MC5C is offline
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I was at a luthier's once, and he had just done a repair on a very similar problem on a very similar Yamaha using Frank Fords method - saw cut flush to the body so it disappears, screw inside the neck block. Only thing is, he described it as basically a miracle cure for a factory epoxy joint, which some of those Yamaha's had, a repair of great skill and cunning. I'm like, dude, you cut the neck off and screwed it back on. Nice save for an old guitar, but not a labour worthy of prizes. He did a neck reset twice on my '46 Epiphone, both failed within 6 months, the second one was he used business cards as the shims and they literally tore apart inside themselves, separated down the middle, because he fit the top of the dovetail but the bottom of the dovetail where all the stress is was not even close. Good news is when I took it apart to do it myself for a third time the neck just came off in my hands after two wiggles. He unfriended me on facebook even though I never said a work about it publicly, nor said his name.
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