Bridge Crack - Future Stability?

[PeteD]

Just found some cracks in the bridge of one of my guitars...typical hairline crack between the pin holes. I'm not able to get my thinnest feeler gage (.010/.025mm) into the crack at all. It appears that on one side it might go down to the soundboard and on the other side it seems to be about half-way into the bridge. All cracks are between the outside E pin holes, nothing into the wings. The bridge plate seems to be unaffected at this point.

Not sure if it happened because I was using bone pins, or what. I know that people usually think it is due to the pins being cranked too hard into the holes, but there could be other reasons as well. The bridge is not unusually thin, so I don't think it is that.

I have some basic luthier skills and was planning to sand in some dust and wick in CA glue until it fills.

Any thoughts on how stable this would be after I do the CA treatment?

I had frankly just decided to keep this guitar in a shootout with another model with similar specs...but it was a pretty close call. Now I am wondering if I should reverse course on my decision. I have done a few bridge replacements, so that doesn't scare me off...but it can be a PITA and I have always ended up with a little bit of finish marring on my other replacements.

If the CA treatment should yield a pretty stable bridge if done properly, I'll decide to keep this one because I like the tone about 10% better than the other one. If it is likely to be a future bridge replacement, then I might still fix it and then let it go (its not an expensive guitar, relatively speaking). I want the experience of fixing it either way.

Any advice or thoughts from those in the know?

[Mirosh]

I discovered a similar crack in a new-to-me 1970s Yamaha FG200 last fall. I used Titebond III glue after blowing out the crack with compressed air. An employee of Music-Go-Round said that's what they used, and I had some on hand already. First I made sure I had two clamps that would squeeze the gap and stay put. I let it dry for a couple days. It has held just fine.

It's my first and only time and others here will have had more experience and more to say.

[John Arnold]

I have done this repair quite often, and it is almost always successful.
I use a thin spatula (a flexible putty knife, actually) to remove bridges, and rarely experience any damage to the top finish.

[PeteD]

Yeah, I’m still young grasshopper with regards to repair work. You sir, are a Kung fu master. You could probably just mind meld the bridge to come off without ever touching it. Me....not quite there yet. 😂. I gotta work on my patience, Especially on bridge removals.

[brad4d8]

I had a similar crack repaired on my F-50 at least 20 years ago, no problems since.

[PeteD]

Is there an argument for 'not' clamping and rather just letting the dust and CA fill in the existing crack? The crack happened for some reason, and I wonder if that extra little space created by the crack is where the bridge really wants or needs to be?

[mirwa]

Originally Posted by PeteD

Is there an argument for 'not' clamping and rather just letting the dust and CA fill in the existing crack? The crack happened for some reason, and I wonder if that extra little space created by the crack is where the bridge really wants or needs to be?

Put it this way, its not gonna hurt, I typically remove and replace the bridge rather than repair or repair in situ.

Repairing in situ if it does not work just means you have to replace it later.

If it is your guitar not a big deal, go for it....but a customers guitar, you want it fixed and fixed first time.

Originally Posted by PeteD

Yeah, I’m still young grasshopper with regards to repair work.

Practice makes perfect, also be picky about your own work if you ever wish to improve

Steve

[Alan Carruth]

I've had bridges crack because the pins were too tight: they are, after all, a line of wedges more or less along the grain. Bone pins don't have much 'give'.

IMO, once a bridge cracks it's on the way out, and you may as well just replace it before it does some damage.

[John Arnold]

I generally don't clamp them. In fact, I will often insert a tapered punch in the holes and push it toward the soundhole to spread the crack while applying thin CA. This to assure maximum penetration. Ebony or rosewood dust is reserved for the wider cracks, and in that case, a sliver of wood may be preferable. It is rare for the crack to recur, but if it does, a second round with CA has always done the trick.

[PeteD]

Thanks for the responses. I have my plan for tomorrow...going to follow your advice John. Appreciate it!! (it is my guitar...I'm not good enough to repair for anyone but myself, friends and family yet).

My 'retirement plan' is to make a lot of sawdust, hopefully build some decent instruments, and give 'em away to kids who might not otherwise be able to afford them. My first guitar looked a bit more like a picasso painting...but I'm starting to get the hang of it now.