Capo Question - Elliott or Other

[Dave in Olympia]

Originally Posted by Methos1979

Is it time already for our monthly 'my-inexpensive-capo-works-great-you-guys-who-pay-more-are-crazy' post fight? Barely eight posts in before the first Shubb guy showed up asking to be enlightened!

And yet nobody has answered my sincere question.

I have zero intonation issues with any of my Shubbs. After 45 years of playing guitar, I have found that this is a matter of clamping tension and placement behind the fret. Please tell me how a yoke style capo does something different. I'm all about gadgets and cool toys, but I don't want to waste my money.

[Rudy4]

Originally Posted by Dave in Edmonds

And yet nobody has answered my sincere question.

I have zero intonation issues with any of my Shubbs. After 45 years of playing guitar, I have found that this is a matter of clamping tension and placement behind the fret. Please tell me how a yoke style capo does something different. I'm all about gadgets and cool toys, but I don't want to waste my money.

That wasn't your question, though.

"Can someone please explain what makes a capo worth $100+?"

As far as what makes a capo worth $100+, there are many answers.

Some of those capos are inlaid, personalized, have the "adaptive radius technology", may have what some consider to have a superior look, or even an adjustment mechanism that's easier to set.

As far as what one of those capos might do differently, there are users who feel the yoke style pulls more evenly against string tension. Some guitars do have problems with that, and the Shubb doesn't tighten evenly on some neck profiles. I can testify that this is true because I own several Shubb Deluxe capos.

Some of my guitars don't respond to be as buzz-free without a bit of fussing with the tension adjustment when using a Shubb due to the radius not being ideal. I have my own "adaptive radius technology" for that Shubb-guitar mating. It's called a hammer.

I do love Shubbs and have used them for years, but have settled into using the Victor for several reasons.
1. The side tensioning wheel is the least likely to be bumped with my hand.
2. The top pad conforms better than the Shubb pad on my main guitar.
3. There's less hanging down below the neck that my hand sometimes contacts.
4. It's much easier to position and tighten with one hand.
5. It doesn't pop off occasionally while playing as my Shubb does with a slight bump from my hand.
6. It's easier to temporarily store on the headstock, although it's usually at a position.
7. It is easier to use at the wider neck positions at the 7th and 9th frets that I use fairly regularly. The Shubb standard 6 string is too short for some necks.
8. It was the same price as my Shubb Deluxes when I bought it.

I could probably think of more reasons, but spending $100+ isn't one of them.

[jaymarsch]

Originally Posted by Dave in Edmonds

And yet nobody has answered my sincere question.

I have zero intonation issues with any of my Shubbs. After 45 years of playing guitar, I have found that this is a matter of clamping tension and placement behind the fret. Please tell me how a yoke style capo does something different. I'm all about gadgets and cool toys, but I don't want to waste my money.

Everyone’s experience differs but I prefer a capo that has the lightest, smallest footprint possible and gives me the best tone with the least pressure. For me, that’s the Elliott yoke style. Balanced pressure across all strings and sounds the most like my strings sound without a capo - especially when employing harmonics.
Those are the benefits that make it worth it to have a $100+ capo. I’ve enjoyed my 2 Elliott capos since 2006 so pretty good value spread over 16 years and counting. :-)
Best,
Jayne

[musicman1951]

Originally Posted by Dave in Edmonds

Can someone please explain what makes a capo worth $100+? I have several Shubb capos and cannot imagine what would make me spend more than that. They work perfectly.

You should never pay more for a capo. You've got one that works perfectly, and that's about as good as it gets.

More expensive capos are for people who don't find the Shubb perfect. They prefer the feel, sound, intonation, look or whatever more than their results with the Shubb. Different ears, different guitar necks, different playing techniques, different desires. It's good that we have choices.

[marciero]

Originally Posted by Dave in Edmonds

And yet nobody has answered my sincere question.

I have zero intonation issues with any of my Shubbs. After 45 years of playing guitar, I have found that this is a matter of clamping tension and placement behind the fret. Please tell me how a yoke style capo does something different. I'm all about gadgets and cool toys, but I don't want to waste my money.

I agree with others that if you are good with the Shubb there is no need to go further. For me the Shubb worked okay, but I did have to give strings a tug occasionally. That and the fact that the adjustment is a guess and check process.

The thing about these $200 capos is that they are made to a level of fit and finish beyond what is necessary for the job, but makes things so nice. The parts are machined to high tolerances. With the Elliot you are talking about a made to order piece. With Elliot and maybe the Heritage too, I would bet there is a lot of hand finishing. With the Heritage, there is little or no side play or slop in the parts that rotate into position- the arm or the clip. The parts are smooth-no sharp edges to jab your finger in the first position like on one of my others. The action on the knurled knob is buttery smooth. These make them not only easy but a joy to use.
My D'addario was like $75 and it works great too, I have to say.

[Silly Moustache]

Originally Posted by Methos1979

Is it time already for our monthly 'my-inexpensive-capo-works-great-you-guys-who-pay-more-are-crazy' post fight? Barely eight posts in before the first Shubb guy showed up asking to be enlightened!

.... snip .....

Ok I'll add to the hilarity of nations.

Earlier this year I decided to buy myself a gift so I tried to order an Elliot - whatever for my 1 & 13/16" nut width guitars.

Got to the final page of inputting address etc., and they would not accept orders from the UK.

So ...I WILL stay with my Shubb C1 basic capos )one for each guitar)

Yup, I use Shubb C1 or C1b on my Collings, Santa Cruz, Martin and Harmony 12 string, and Eastman 0 and 00 guitars and have one for each flat top.

I do not accept that ANY capo will ensure perfect intonation when applied because none can compensate for how high your frets are,your string gauge, or how hard you press down on the strings.

IMHO, you use what you use and tune the strings of your capoed guitar to the notes of the root chords of whatever you are to play next and adjust accordingly. That's what the applause time is for!

[canehorn]

If you’ll notice from those who dropped “$100+” on capoes, they all tried a variety of others before making that expense. Each had their own primary reasons but as mentioned repeatedly, many experienced enhanced function and aesthetics. For selected users, they did not and returned to their personal tried & true.

Personally, I was trying to solve a problem with compound radius; the OP had varied radii among his guitars. I failed to mention previously that my Heritage absolutely produces better tone to my ear than my Daddario. I just A/B’ed them and it’s not insignificant. I didn’t hear any one claim “perfect intonation”…just improvement in one or more aspects of capo use. YMMV as far as the value proposition being worth it. The rule of diminishing returns certainly applies.

[Shortfinger]

Originally Posted by Dave in Edmonds

Can someone please explain what makes a capo worth $100+? I have several Shubb capos and cannot imagine what would make me spend more than that. They work perfectly.

Expensive toys get expensive accessories.

[Rudy4]

Originally Posted by Shortfinger

Expensive toys get expensive accessories.

Since I have about $200 wrapped up in my guitar (some assembly was required... ) I won't be buying a $100+ capo or strumming with a $30+ pick.

That's a whole nuther discussion!

[Rudy4]

Originally Posted by Silly Moustache

Ok I'll add to the hilarity of nations.

Earlier this year I decided to buy myself a gift so I tried to order an Elliot - whatever for my 1 & 13/16" nut width guitars.

Got to the final page of inputting address etc., and they would not accept orders from the UK.

So ...I WILL stay with my Shubb C1 basic capos )one for each guitar)

Yup, I use Shubb C1 or C1b on my Collings, Santa Cruz, Martin and Harmony 12 string, and Eastman 0 and 00 guitars and have one for each flat top.

I do not accept that ANY capo will ensure perfect intonation when applied because none can compensate for how high your frets are,your string gauge, or how hard you press down on the strings.

IMHO, you use what you use and tune the strings of your capoed guitar to the notes of the root chords of whatever you are to play next and adjust accordingly. That's what the applause time is for!

That won't work for me. I need both hands to protect myself from thrown bottles and cans!

[tommieboy]

Originally Posted by Rudy4

That won't work for me. I need both hands to protect myself from thrown bottles and cans!

You need to request a chicken wire barrier between you and the audience.



Tommy

[canehorn]

Originally Posted by Shortfinger

Expensive toys get expensive accessories.

Truth, one begat the other

[birdsong]

Originally Posted by Forest Dweller

The best capo I ever owned was a Victor, which looks remarkably like that D'Addario. Unfortunately when I got into using g7th I leant the Victor to a student and never saw it again.

I am beginning to question my g7ths efficiency to be honest: I have a Newport, which is great. Its light which I like, but....its difficult to adjust when its on the neck. I also have a performance 3 which was a total waste of money. It simply doesn't work- supposedly the radius adjusts so that it doesn't put the strings out of tune when applied, but to the contrary mine goers more out of tune than the newport. It's also very heavy and bulky. But it is very easy to adjust the pressure.

However this thread has piqued my interest in that D'Aaddario as, if it is basically the same design as the discontinued Victor then it might well be on my Christmas wishlist.
Robbie

I agree with you (and Rudy). I still have my original brass Victor (late 90's purchase). I have seen some for sale on eBay, in years past. You might take a look and see if any are still out there.

I also have an Elliott, from 1994. And some Shubbs. I especially like to use the Elliott or Victor when I play to an audience.

[EZYPIKINS]

Have used allot of different ones over the years.

Have been liking the Shubb's allot lately.

That said, my standard Shubb will just barely cover the 7th fret on my J-200.

[musicman1951]

Originally Posted by Rudy4

Since I have about $200 wrapped up in my guitar (some assembly was required... ) I won't be buying a $100+ capo or strumming with a $30+ pick.

That's a whole nuther discussion!

Now you've got me nervous! The sales tax on my last guitar was over $800. Am I obligated to find a $1,000 capo?

I think if you try a $30 pick and it increases your joy while you play that's all the justification you need.